Drive pulley removal

RGCII

Member
Okay guys so found a few small leaks coming from stator plug and trans seal have 2003 chopper and started tearing it all down got to the drive pulley and cannot seem to get the nut loose to remove belt and pulley to expose the trans seal .. Any help of nut direction if reverse thread or if I need special deep well socket to fit over axel?
 

RGCII

Member
What is the drive pulley nut direction to take the drive pulley that the belt is on I cannot break it loose ?
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Supporting Member
Ok, I'm with you now. I don't remember right off the top of my head, I want to say it is a RHT. I thumbed through the manual and this is all I could find.

Things to remember on the primary side of the BIG DOG drive unit:
The clutch hub nut, on the main shaft of the transmission, torques to 80 ft/lbs. with Red Loctite.
This is the only fastener on this side of the motorcycle that has left-handed threads. It requires a
1-3/16” size socket and a “flyswatter” to immobilize the clutch hub, when removing or
tightening this nut. The engine compensating nut is torqued to 150-165 ft/lbs with a drop of red
Loctite and requires a metal bar or lock placed between the compensating sprocket and the
primary chain to immobilize the drive while this 1-1/2” nut is torqued or loosened. Place the jam
bar or lock between the compensating sprocket and the clutch sprocket. Make certain it is in the
low area of the teeth on both sprockets.
 

Guillaume

Active Member
Mr wright
it,s loosen up to the right and I not sure it,s 1.7/8" or 1.1/2" becuase I took it off my wife,s bike to put a new hub on .:cheers:
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Supporting Member
Thanks, It's been a while sense I've had mine off. When I put it together I engraved on the nut which way it goes, but I didn't make a note in the manual.
 

RGCII

Member
Okay guys I am stuck, this nut will not come off the shaft. I am using a big breaker bar that would be used on a diesel. And it's about 3 feet long. This nut is not budging. And suggestions I have tried using some heat also.
 

Fat_Bastard

Active Member
Okay guys I am stuck, this nut will not come off the shaft. I am using a big breaker bar that would be used on a diesel. And it's about 3 feet long. This nut is not budging. And suggestions I have tried using some heat also.
Try using a propane torch and heat it -- "about 20~30 seconds of blue flame on it" then use lots of torque to remove... :up:

(MAP gas maybe too hot)
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
The 2003 has the same setup as a typical Harley would. The socket size needed is 1 7/8" and needs to be deep in order to go over shaft. If you need this socket, I have one you can buy.
Also, it's left hand thread....to remove it, you will be turning in clockwise direction. The do have Red lcotite on threads so sometimes you will need to heat up with a torch. MAP gas works best, just be careful not not burn the drive belt. Actually, with the torch, and a good air impact, you will not need the belt in place around pulley anyhow. Just put a pair of heavy gloves on one hand to hold pulley, and using air impact with the other, it will come right off...assuming you took locking bolts out from around pulley correct?
 

RGCII

Member
Okay so I will give it another shot today, I do have the socket and I was putting some heat to it just not a lot. But before I go cranking on it again just want to double check direction. I would turn it clockwise or counter clockwise to remove.

Also I did remove the 2 Allen bolts and the lock that were on the pulley .
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Okay so I will give it another shot today, I do have the socket and I was putting some heat to it just not a lot. But before I go cranking on it again just want to double check direction. I would turn it clockwise or counter clockwise to remove.

Also I did remove the 2 Allen bolts and the lock that were on the pulley .
CLOCKWISE...and use a MAP gas torch just on the threads of nut till you see the red loctite is liquefied. Also, you will want to make sure after this you replace all the seals including the small one on end of main drive gear.
 

RGCII

Member
Okay thanks, and yeah I am replacing all the seals on this side of the bike anyway that's the reason for the tear down. Thanks for all your help and I will update when I get a chance today
 

RGCII

Member
Okay got the bike all back together and everything sealed up good . Next question is I installed a spike air cleaner and now where the hose goes from the cross over tube for the rocker box and runs down to back of block and connects to a nipple the goes on crankcase it's leaking there any suggestions?
 

Chaz1209

Member
CLOCKWISE...and use a MAP gas torch just on the threads of nut till you see the red loctite is liquefied. Also, you will want to make sure after this you replace all the seals including the small one on end of main drive gear.
Anyone know where I can get a drive pulley socket for decent price 50.00 is crazy for one socket
 

Chaz1209

Member
The 2003 has the same setup as a typical Harley would. The socket size needed is 1 7/8" and needs to be deep in order to go over shaft. If you need this socket, I have one you can buy.
Also, it's left hand thread....to remove it, you will be turning in clockwise direction. The do have Red lcotite on threads so sometimes you will need to heat up with a torch. MAP gas works best, just be careful not not burn the drive belt. Actually, with the torch, and a good air impact, you will not need the belt in place around pulley anyhow. Just put a pair of heavy gloves on one hand to hold pulley, and using air impact with the other, it will come right off...assuming you took locking bolts out from around pulley correct?
Anyone know where I can purchase the socket at a decent price
 
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