New paint for the old Dog

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Since the rewire is well under way and I already have it in a thread Finally completely fried the ol' Thunderheart, I think I will start a new one on the paint endeavor. @Roaddawg has the tins and I am anxiously awaiting a story board to display the options. He has had a quirky two weeks with 13 days of forced OT so we are off to a slow start. In the meantime, Bruce, Shannon, and I devised a scheme to overcome a chrome blemish in my chrome speedo dash.
381138_526241510726787_128328050_n.jpg
Here it is assembled when I installed it five years ago after finding it used on eBay complete with a used speedo. I did not know I could get a new one off the shelf from Donna at the time.
 

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Shannon is fabbing new paint savers and gas caps to replace the ones pictured. They fused together years ago from unleaded paint degradation of the whole assembly such that for 8 years I have removed the entire assembly to expose the tank bungs whenever I have fueled up.IMG_5043.JPG
 

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
The chrome dash has a blemish in the chrome that has bugged me for a few years. When the speedo is mounted, it shows just outside the trim band.IMG_5053.JPG
 

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
So I measured up the speedo OD and Shannon is fabbing up a 3-3/8" ID stainless washer about 1/4" wide and Bruce will paint it to match the new scheme, and we will conceal the blemish with something that looks like we did it on purpose.IMG_5052.JPG
Note the burned up circuit board that finally did in my Thunderherart module.
 
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BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Could just get it rechromed? Probably be like $75-$100


Just saw your bike for sale on Craigslist...lol up in Arkansas
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I thought of that but the connector for the idiot lights is chemically welded to the backside and would have to be removed and remounted. Too much chance of destroying it. It appears to be the truely irreplaceable part.
 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I thought of that but the connector for the idiot lights is chemically welded to the backside and would have to be removed and remounted. Too much chance of destroying it.
Ah makes sense...check my post above I edited with a link

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BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Ah makes sense...check my post above I edited with a link

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Ha! So that is one year older, and looks like the first black and metallic silver combo that gave them the inspiration for mine. Mine was called the Vintage Classic Millennium Edition and they made 28 or so of them.
 

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
While I am resolving the aging, nagging issues on the bike, I have another challenge for @Mr.Wright. This one can take some time. I have always felt that my luggage rack, a part of a truly ingenious patent pending system that BD devised for the Millennium Edition that pairs with the saddlebag mounts, is mounted too high on the sissy bar - and a little too far forward (tucked in under the slant of the backrest). It forces my gear to ride very high behind me.564689_526241517393453_941292303_n.jpg

You can see, it has nearly 10" of clearance to the taillight and at least 8" to the fender. I have always wanted to rehab the chrome struts so that it rides a couple inches farther back and at least 4" lower.
 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Here are the close-up images of the dismounted rack assembly.View attachment 44004
View attachment 44004View attachment 44005
Here's a suggestion...to limit the amount of rechrome utilize the bolts holding the sissy bar in the strut. Just use a longer bolt there and weld a new bracket on the luggage to sit there. I believe that will clear the fender.

Actually Shannon might be able to build you a billet wedge that will fit in between the rack and the strut bolts looks like the rack will fit between the two. The problem is the weird angle of the luggage rack clamp. That's why I suggest a wedge.

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BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Yeah. The rack itself will unbolt from the upright with no issue. The horizontal platform is completely usable after detachment from the struts. The magic is in new struts that extend back and down and then remount the rack platform. Only that part would have to be rechromed.
 

BigDogRick

Well-Known Member
Here's a suggestion...to limit the amount of rechrome utilize the bolts holding the sissy bar in the strut. Just use a longer bolt there and weld a new bracket on the luggage to sit there. I believe that will clear the fender.

Actually Shannon might be able to build you a billet wedge that will fit in between the rack and the strut bolts looks like the rack will fit between the two. The problem is the weird angle of the luggage rack clamp. That's why I suggest a wedge.

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yeah. I think we are on the same trail.
 
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