Indeed. Good explanation, but you missed the thrust bearing scenario. :2thumbs:
HARD TO SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL...WHY
- Thread starter TylerDavin06K9
- Start date
Chopper2003
New Member
Hello, I own BD Chopper 2003 & HARD TO SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL. Anyone can help in this case
Last edited:
Chopper2003
New Member
Hello, I try to follow the link but its out of, is possible to find again.
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
Alexey
Active Member
Start with intro. This will help you understand where and what to look for.! Do you speak Russian?
Bmarchant
Active Member
I've talked to Baker, and S&S tech support. Its very common with these. I rev it a little and go from 1st to second, then pop it back to 1st, and do it one more time. Goes right in, and I get no "Bang" from the starter the next time I start the bike. Its always done it.
I've had a few really good mechanics check it out, and everything is adjusted correctly. I bought it with 10,000 miles on it, and I've now got 37,000. Its my every day ride in the summer months. It's something I now do every time, so its no big deal.
I've had a few really good mechanics check it out, and everything is adjusted correctly. I bought it with 10,000 miles on it, and I've now got 37,000. Its my every day ride in the summer months. It's something I now do every time, so its no big deal.
Chopper2003
New Member
Да
Once assembled, the set screw will force the clutch ramp assembly to home itself. Say no matter how the push rod is moved, screwing the adjuster screw should still move any style ramp system to its start point. So technically, the thrust bearing is being loaded upon; as it pushes the ramp assembly home. Once found, back off of the screw, then lightly seat the screw to the ramp/bearing/rod/etc. Make a 1/4 turn out from lightly seated and lock the nut. Take out the cable slack at the midpoint of the cable adjuster. Run zero gap at the lever, but still feel a slack at the cable. So 1/16th or less gap at the lever to perch.
When hot, theory is, you could spin the rod and have the clearance taken up [w/out clutch cable installed think]. Cold, you could push the rod back and forth. Ramp wise, [w/cable] you now take up the gap as the ramp rides up in the grooves, takes up the rod slack this way. You now have a hair trigger at the lever, hardly pull the lever in and the gears mesh easier when shifting. Pull the lever to the grip and N should click like butter [standing still and idling]... ONLY if the STEELS/FRICTIONS are FLAT!
T/O bearing setting sound logical?
When done, the inner clutch basket should stop as if the engine was dead = Easy N... Get it?
TapioK
Well-Known Member
After my venture to Auto-clutch I happened to have 3 thicknesses of steels, open primary and too much time on my hand.
So I did spend a day playing with adjustment and steels trying different compos just for the hell of it. Now my gears go click click no matter what. I still have parts falling off occasionally so maybe I don't have enough time after all
Tapio
So I did spend a day playing with adjustment and steels trying different compos just for the hell of it. Now my gears go click click no matter what. I still have parts falling off occasionally so maybe I don't have enough time after all
Tapio
Hopstar
Member
It's opposite from if my cable broke the clutch would be closed and stuck in gear if that makes sense
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chubs
Guru
How far from home ? push start and let off throttle to shift.
Hopstar
Member
7 miles... it's stuck in neutral.. Clutch lever is slack but cable is not broken... it's acting like the clutch is stuck open
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Hopstar
Member
I got a tow... but now I have to figure out how to fix it.... anyone got clutch knowledge on 2005 chopper?
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chubs
Guru
Doesn't sound good. Know anybody with a trailer ? No sense tearing it up any worse than it is.
Hopstar
Member
Ya I got towed home... I can shift thru gears.. but it's like the clutch is stuck open
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chubs
Guru
I don't profess to be a bike mechanic, but ya might check to see if the clutch push rod is seized up.
Hopstar
Member
I will thanks... Will tear it apart tomorrow after work
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