I used Eastwood high temp X2 gloss black paint.. found out after all the machine work was done that should have been done after powder coating due to high heat and having to recheck everything after powder coating.. So I was already 1600 into it for boring, pistons, new valves and cam..Was powder coat done?
Looks nice, couldn’t really see it in the first set of pics. Hope it holds up for you. I really like the Black Motors like the HD bikes, (less rubbing needed).I used Eastwood high temp X2 gloss black paint.. found out after all the machine work was done that should have been done after powder coating due to high heat and having to recheck everything after powder coating.. So I was already 1600 into it for boring, pistons, new valves and cam..
Did you tape off every fin?
Yes, I used 1/8" pinstripe tape. I buffed em with 180 grit sand paper disc on my angle grinder to knock off any imperfections, then hit em with 500, then 1000, then wet sanded them with 1200 and used my bench grinder with a buffing wheel (no polish) before I taped them and just that made them pretty damn shiny. Just so after all I had to do was pull the tape and hit em real quick with some polish.Did you tape off every fin?
I like the look after I did it.. I was Leary at first, but that's exactly why I did it. It'll take you a whole weekend to polish then things and it only lasts for a few months if that before you're at it all over again.. I love the shiny polished aluminum look.. but man I am extremely busy and really just don't have time for it ya know.Looks nice, couldn’t really see it in the first set of pics. Hope it holds up for you. I really like the Black Motors like the HD bikes, (less rubbing needed).
What did they look like when they were laying out? were they the same length rods? last time I had mine out one is shorter then the other, I forget if it was the exhaust rods or the intake, but they are different lengths and should be consistent, 1 long and 1 short per cylinder.So I need some insight on what could possibly be wrong here.. I don't trust what I'm looking at and I've already adjusted the intake push rods both 2 times with the same results. As you can see the front one has more threads showing the. The rear one.. n e ideas.. View attachment 50425
I believe you are right, one long and one short per cylinder, but I also don't know which one is which.What did they look like when they were laying out? were they the same length rods? last time I had mine out one is shorter then the other, I forget if it was the exhaust rods or the intake, but they are different lengths and should be consistent, 1 long and 1 short per cylinder.
Do you remember the breakin procedure required from S&S when the bikes were new? That was 500 miles and there was a specific RPM range to keep it within500 miles, I would think with just the rings needing to be seated it wouldn't take that long. That's like 2 years in some circles, even longer in others.
Thanks my good man. It was a good feeling for sure. Threw about 100 miles on it last night. The manual states 50 miles under 2500 rpms and then change the oil, I had 50 miles on it by the time I got to the rally. Lol.. then another 500 and change oil. 2500 wasn't possible, it was closer to about 2500 to 3200.. But I did take it easy. Still have a ticking which was the point behind the whole rebuild so I'm actually pist. But everything will work out.Sounds good Kel gotta be a good feeling doing it all yourself! Make sure you ride according to break in procedure for at least the first 500 miles better safe than sorry
I chatted with Curtis the other night for a few hours and he pretty much put it the same way the manual did. But he did also warn me of the possible transmission issues due to the added 30 to 45 horses.I'll shoot Curtis a text shortly and see what he thinks.
The more important and still unanswered question unless I missed the answer is: what was the deal with the pushrods? Wonder if it had something to do with the base circle...
I would like to see a dyno sheet before I believe that one Broham, of coarse I did see it here on the internetI chatted with Curtis the other night for a few hours and he pretty much put it the same way the manual did. But he did also warn me of the possible transmission issues due to the added 30 to 45 horses.
I got the specs from S&S.. everyone I spoke with as fracas people who know what they r talking about pretty much told me the same.. so I'm not doubting it at all.. and don' be mad because u pulled the trigger on the hellcat before the demon.. lol..I would like to see a dyno sheet before I believe that one Broham, of coarse I did see it here on the internet
I don't like the wide body and never liked the wheel flares on the Rams either, but a pulley change will give me the power without the 2K Insurance bill.I got the specs from S&S.. everyone I spoke with as fracas people who know what they r talking about pretty much told me the same.. so I'm not doubting it at all.. and don' be mad because u pulled the trigger on the hellcat before the demon.. lol..
He rebuilt the top end for a reason. Wear would cause it to be down on power from stock. Shouldn’t be hard at all to get an extra 45 horse out of a fresh, upgraded engine over a worn out epa spec engine.I don't like the wide body and never liked the wheel flares on the Rams either, but a pulley change will give me the power without the 2K Insurance bill.
But to stay on subject, a dyno would tell the real story. 45 hp is almost a 50% gain
I gotcha, didn’t think of it that way, his worn out engine was prolly only puttin out 50-60 hpHe rebuilt the top end for a reason. Wear would cause it to be down on power from stock. Shouldn’t be hard at all to get an extra 45 horse out of a fresh, upgraded engine over a worn out epa spec engine.