Do I need a top end rebiuld?

Energy One

kickstart

Well-Known Member
a simple thing called Liability. if Big Dog Is Back put out a manual saying "this is everything corrected that was wrong" at that point, if ANYTHING went wrong, they could be held liable for ANY future problems, damages, injuries, etc. that would or could occur. I wouldn't touch that with a 20' pole.
Who else could do it right? They should be the subject matter experts as they all worked for BD.
If they are back they should know basic things like the Torque Specs for all the scoots.
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
Who else could do it right? They should be the subject matter experts as they all worked for BD.
If they are back they should know basic things like the Torque Specs for all the scoots.
they could probably put out a list of "recommended" standards and still be ok. that would go a long way in helping everybody out.
 

BC200742

Member
Re writing a manual(s) takes a lot of time, time is money, a task specially for a small company. then we just share it free here and bitch if there is a mistakes left... Bad Combo
My Uncle once told me this is the only book you'll ever need for specifications on material, torque values, threads etc....
If you want to do things correctly.

 
Last edited:

pknowles

RETIRED
Supporting Member
My Uncle once told me this is the only book you

My Uncle once told me this is the only book you'll ever need for specifications on material, torque values, threads etc....
If you want to do things correctly.

If you google this you can now download a free copy in a pdf. Thanks for sharing
 

JeffM

Active Member
I rarely do nuts and bolts to tension by workshop manuals.
As a mechanical fitter by trade i have an Engineers Hand book that has all the torque values for all metric & imperial bolts in all their various grades and thread types. I also do bolt stretch on some very big gear using dial gauges so i do have some idea in this area.
Another point is "RED LOCTITE" should never be used on bolts under 1/2", the evidence is the 10 stripped bolts in my rotors.
BLUE is the medium and with 1 drop will hold any bolt keeping our mobile jackhammers on the road.
 

pknowles

RETIRED
Supporting Member
I rarely do nuts and bolts to tension by workshop manuals.
As a mechanical fitter by trade i have an Engineers Hand book that has all the torque values for all metric & imperial bolts in all their various grades and thread types. I also do bolt stretch on some very big gear using dial gauges so i do have some idea in this area.
Another point is "RED LOCTITE" should never be used on bolts under 1/2", the evidence is the 10 stripped bolts in my rotors.
BLUE is the medium and with 1 drop will hold any bolt keeping our mobile jackhammers on the road.
Thanks for shedding some light on the subject.
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
There are numerous torque charts available on the internet that list everything from types of material to class fit, run on torque, break away torque,dry and wet torque on and on. What I do is look at the recommended torque and start at about half and slowly work up to it however on occasion if it doesn't feel right to me I don't give it the recommended torque especially steel hardware into aluminum. There are several in the BD manual that are too high in my opinion. Just my .02 If it feels like it's about to strip STOP. :) That comes with experience and helicoil installation.
 
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