2010 Bulldog Bagger whining noise when at operating temperature.

WhiteDog

Member
I just got a new to me 2010 Bagger with 20k miles on it. When the engine gets to operating temperature there is a distinctive whine from the engine, I doubt that you could hear it from 10 feet away but I can definitely hear it sitting on it. The whine does not change pitch with an increase in rpms. I haven't had a chance to put my stethoscope on it yet. I was just wondering if anyone has ever experienced this happening to a vtwin and knows what caused it.
 

WhiteDog

Member
Yes it's EFI. I have read that the fuel pump has caused a few problems. I'll warm it up and check the fuel pump with my stethoscope once I locate the pump. Thanks for the ideas.
 

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Oh do you have an LED headlight? Those have a little fan on the bulb. Mine isn't really loud, but you can hear it with the key on and the motor off. If I had quieter pipes you could probably hear it a bit.

But yes I'd check fuel pump filter, especially with 20k on the bike. If it's straining to pull fuel it'll wear it out and you'll need the whole thing. Chevy's were famous for this from like 00-07 or so. Once that fuel pump started to really whine you had months before it quit.
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
The fuel pump is located in the right half of your fuel tank. It has a schraer valve to check the fuel pressure, which should be at 60 psi.
When I got my Bagger in December, it was really a loud almost grinding sound when I hit the run button and the system powered up. But ran fine.
So I called Matt Moore in Wichita and bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt it...now it purrs when it powers up, and is pretty much silent otherwise.image.jpeg
 

WhiteDog

Member
I agree heybalor. Who would have ever guessed that the noise was coming from my fuel tank? Learn as we go I guess. Thanks for help all.
 

WhiteDog

Member
Thanks for the thought pknowles. Isthere anything special about getting the tank off, and do all of them have the flaking problem with this symptom?
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
OK Ron,
I'll try to remember how Blacktopper and I did this. First unhook the ground from your battery.
Then you have to drain the tank by removing the gas cap, then put the hose into a four or five gallon container. Put some masking tape on the tank under the speedo housing. Look underneath the tank and undo the wire connection that powers the fuel pump. Look carefully and you'll see how it unclasps.
Then you have to remove the bolts holding the tank on the frame. Cant recall if I waited to disconnect the fuel pump because I wanted to use the pump to to drain the tank...cant recall how we did that.
The rear of the fuel tank elevates, and the front of the tank rises a little too (be careful not to hit the speedo housing). On my bike, we actually had to pry the rear of the tank to get it to move upward--I'm thinking a little warm soapy water might have helped--once I got it out and cleaned up it was no further issue. Be careful getting the tank off the bike, esp if you didn't remove the speedo housing. Basically the tank has to come up and rearwards. Don't lift the back too high, just enough to clear the 'saddle that it rests on. Basically , once you get the bolts removed from the frame, the tank is just sitting on the frame rail, with a plastic saddle keeping it in place.
I wound up with a bit of gas still wanting to make a mess, so I took the thing outside and dumped the cup or so of gas in gravel and rinsed the tank with water, and then and blew it out with compressed air.
Then put the tank upside down on a towel and removed the 8 or 10 allen screws holding in the fuel pump itself. Be careful getting it out, as the filter kind of snakes around in the tank. Take a picture of it so you'll have the correct orientation when reassembling--or check the image in post 9 above.
I strongly urge you to contact The guys at BDM 316-260-8039 and buy a rebuild kit--it is cheap insurance....
The rebuild kit is straight forward, and the components you have to replace are easy to do. There is a short hose (maybe 3/4" long) that is not visible on the schematic above. It goes from the pump body to the supply line for the FI system. There is a little retaining wire and a clamp band on the body of the pump. Pry open the clamp band on the pump body with a screwdriver, being careful to not misshape it because you'll use it again (I tightened it by gently using side cutters and then a pair of channel locks because I didn't have the correct pliers to reinstall that clamp--worked out fine, just don't be too heavy handed. Put the little 3/4' hose on the supply line first, then attach the pump body itself into the hose. While the fuel pump is out, you should find a bore camera or some similar device and have a look around the tank. Mine had a little separation of the liner at the neck only and the rest was good. But you can be sure with a little lighted camera.
Then I went to all the trouble of reassembling everything but I rigged it so I could put the pump in a jug of fuel to be sure it worked OK. This is when I found out what 60 psi means.....haha. Won't try that again. Just re-install the rebuilt fuel pump and be careful to observe the manual's instructions on Torque and torque sequence. Put the tank together and put on your seat to be sure the seat and tank meet correctly, then bolt down the tank and hook up the battery and add fuel and fire away.
If I have any other thoughts, I'll post them, or maybe Blacktopper will notice something I forgot. Just take your time and study the parts...I was nervous to rebuild the fuel pump, but overall it was not difficult with the good instructions and schematics in the manual.
I think Paul Knowles and Viking (Kim) know a lot about this too and probably have some good pointers. too.
 

Viking

Biker
Tape the underside of your tank, cut the hoses, get tank off of the bike, unscrew the fuel pump, replace all parts with the kit from BDM, and replace in reverse order, and you'll be good to go. The cost of the kit from BDM is less than if you try to find the parts separately online. The seals just don't like sitting in old fuel too long and yours has. While having it out, you might as well replace the parts included in the kit from BDM for peace of mind, not to mention that some of the seals are rather hard to find.

Don't forget to post the result of advice given here!!!
 

WhiteDog

Member
Awesome. Thanks for sharing your experience guys. Good idea, I'll get the kit and rebuild the pump while I have it out.
 

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Take pics while you do it and then write up a thread and we'll put it in the "how to" section so other guys can reference it down the road :old2:
 
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