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Discussion in 'Technical' started by Raywood, Dec 21, 2009.
For all 04 and above BD's.
Just curious, what happens if you were to use DOT 3 fluid?
it would coagulate
well, that explains it then. can I bleed out the "coagulated" fluid normally? My front brake is totally inop. feels hard a a brick when you squeeze the lever.
Would depend on the viscosity of the coagulation.
Probabley not. My guess would be easier to take apart and clean it up. V
when i changed mine i took everything apart. caliper, resevoir, line. washed all metal parts in brake cleaner and any rubber and plastics with soap and water. dry with compressed air. then soak all parts in the fluid your gonna use. then install and fill.
a pain in the ass but hey its winter
I can't get the front brake handle to show any pump action. I tried to bleed the line but there is absolutely no pump action, In or out. Is that what you're talking about by coagulation? Do I have some blockage or something in the handlebar assembly? The fluid won't even pump out of the handle assembly.
You migh have air in your master. Takes awhile to bleed them
Rear Break Sensor
I just bought a used 06 K9 that needs some minor love. As I wait for the service manuals... can anyone provide me information on the rear break sensor? I need to replace it (wires are frayed and break lights won't work). as neither front nor rear actions will trigger breaklights...I think I have a bigger problem.
Can anyone suggest a part number, replacement oart/work around...old tractor part...or part specifications such as thread type, voltage etc?
I slso read about some magnets reed sensors that fail and am trying to get my mind wrapped around that subsystem.
Any help/ experience would be great!
Check THIS out too. :up:
having problems with my rear brake caliper on my 06 Mastiff seems to be sticking a little how can I tell if it's the caliper or the master that needs rebuilding
Is the plunger on the master retracting? Is the piston on the caliper retracting?
That should answer your question once you determine which is.
thanks will check it out
Inside your master cylinder, there is a tiny port that relieves the line pressure, back to the reservoir. If your plunger (master cylinder piston), does not spring back completely, it will block this port, and keep the pressure on the calipers. Also, this port will get blocked by dirt in your fluid. Change your fluid, every other year to keep things clean inside. Brakes are more important than horsepower. Ride safe.
Also, I had a caliper issue, years ago. The O-rings around the pistons, had accumulated so much dirt in the groove that they sit in, that it wouldn't allow the pistons to retract. Thus, dragging the pads, causing heat that expands the fluid, causing more brake pressure. I had to use the brake pressure, to pop the piston out of the caliper, with the pads removed. I just cleaned the caliper and piston, and re-used my O-rings (because I wanted to ride that day) and it worked fine. I was in high school at the time, and that is when I learned "why you should change your fluid".
thanks I'll get in there and see what I find
Anyone knows what rebuild kit works on the 2003 Chopper REAR master cylinder? The plunger is not fully retracting, I guess it's rebuild time. Only changed the fluid in all these years.
DOC has them, Dead One Customs
Thanks guys, but I'm on the other side of the map and I would pay more for the shipping than the part itself, that's why I'm trying to find out some part numbers to cross-reference and find a seller here in Europe
I was thinking this master cylinder should be similar to harley evo style but what model? softail maybe?
Anyone in Europe rebuilt their rear master cylinder lately? if ever?
A Harley kit will work. The key is the bore size. I know if you search it's been covered in here a few times.
5/8" bore is for 04 and newer, front and rear.
You might want to double check yours but it might be 3/4" bore on the rear.
Should cost ya all of $15-20
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