Decided to re-wire the Dog and add a few goodies - *Caution* naked pics!

LA_Dog

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
LOL ok so how many clicked just cuz I had "naked pics" in the topic subject? :D Sorry only the bike is naked..

Anyway.. Since I'm sitting for two weeks now waiting for my tanks to get re-lined, and tins re-painted, I decided to go through the bike front to back. It was previously re-wired by a shop in long beach, they removed all the EHC / WP crap and direct wired with breakers. However, whomever did it was definitely a mid-grade tech. A lot of wires not soldered to connections, sketchy ground point for regulator module, and some other general items that were a problem waiting to happen. I'm an electronics tech and have re-wired my share of bikes over the years, so you know, it's gotta be done right eh?

I added the Vulcan Engineering coil bracket, Dyna coils, ignition switch and start button. Twisted plug wires as well. I like this setup much better.

Added a Cyclone 866f alarm. man, I love these alarms. Size of a pack of smokes, and has every feature imaginable. Easy 4 wire hookup, six if you use the built in relay for ignition kill (I did). best place to buy this alarm is from Pat at www.lockitt.com - really nice guy / fast ship / low price.

I used a relay for the main ignition / system power, and another for the start button. All main circuits are on breakers in the pan area. Smaller circuits are individually fused. All gound points are consolidated and to frame or battery terminals. All wiring is either 12g or 10g for circuits. overkill, but all good. All wires are sleeved with heat shrink and bundled.

No turn signals, no horn. Don't use em or rely on em. ever. it's false security. Upgraded headlight to an Adjure bucket and H4 hi / low, permanently wired to high beam on. Yes, you'll see me for sure :D.

Plus I added a nifty hidden kill switch under the right side frame just under seat. Cuts all main power to bike. Great to flip the bike off when pulling up. You can only see it when crouching down, but it's real easy to rech while riding and it's not in the way of anything. I used a billet 25amp marine switch and made a bracket out of a spare chrome piece laying around.

Wires in place and waiting for my VOES switch to show up- I will use the VOES with my Crane HI4 for town driving. The VOES will be set to 6.5HG and tucked in under the frame on the top motor mount.

Pickd up a XXX Super G from Bob, replaced all hoses with stainless braided lines.

New Braille battery coming to replace the OEM HD battery.

My rear rotor was slightly warped so it is over at Dr. John's Frame and Wheel getting trued. Performance Machine referred me to them, located in Anaheim. Super nice guys, looks like they do some bad ass work - keep your fingers crossed they can fix the rotor cuz it's impossible to find a replacement in this design.

New Avon Venom for rear coming, ditched the Dunlop D404.

Hell, a lot going on.. just want to get it all back together and RIDE THIS BITCH. I got about a week of waiting to go, and I've already done polished / cleaned lubed everything I can think of.. :angry:







 
LA_Dog

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Hey guys- thanks for the comments and support! hell ya a lot going on with this bitch but what you gonna do right? At least the wiring is all done- got the VOES switch installed today, labled all the wires, fuses and breakers, done.

Now just waiting for my TINS- WTF taking a long ass time. Killing me. the place that dipped and is relining the tanks needs "two weeks". all I can say is those bitches better be flawless.

Picking up my rear wheel tomorrow from Dr. John's - Their main guy Jim actually trued the rear rotor - and they only charged me $60. Fantastic!!

My new rear tire is DELAYED - Apparently a train derailed in Arlington, Texas blocking the main line so UPS train can't get through until they fix it. Wow just my luck.

Maybe I'll have better news by next weekend. I'm just crying missing all this good So Cal riding weather.
 
LA_Dog

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
FrankBDPS said:
Nice Job!Do your brake rotors rust when they get wet?
Click to expand...
Yep all iron rotors will rust on exposed non-contact areas. What I do is paint them with this stuff. It goes on super thin and clear. you can put it on any base bare metal- stainless, copper, aluminum, etc. I paint it on all my bolt heads, brackets, SS carb, etc - anything I don't want to rust, dull or oxidize.

Protecta-Clear www.protectaclear.com

This stuff is the SHIT- Artists use it to preserve their scultures. you don't need much at all so get the smallest container. it has a flash point of 600 degrees F and at that point it just vaporizes. I even used it on my staineless bbq grill lid.

I either use a small artist brush or a waxing sponge to apply it. Only use it on bare metal because it will remove paint. It's nice because it does not look like you coated the parts with anything, it is invisible and just leaves a soft shine like the metal itself.

Anyway, it is realy easy to apply- the only way you can eff it up is if you touch it while it is still tacky. but if that happens, just wipe it off with some denatured alcohol and re-apply. easy peasy..
 
LA_Dog

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
oh and the oil tank will be painted next- you can see some bubbling on the top. I just didn't feel like pulling it right now / I'll do it over winter when the weather is crappy and time for oil change.
 
Nukeranger

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Supporting Member
:eek:Very nice and clean....I would be afraid to ride her. Just kidding. Thanks for sharing. Excellent work.:2thumbs:
 
LA_Dog

LA_Dog

Go Fast, Go Faster
Arrgh. I went to go pick up my tins today, and the paint shop really did a butcher job on the prep work. could see sanding lines through the paint, pin holes, flat spots, etc- both tanks AND the rear fender were not acceptable. So..... I told them to do it right / one more shot. this shop is supposed to be one of the best so I'm really shocked. total WTF time today.... no riding for me this weekend (again). killin me...

On the upside- I found out why many BDM's tend to bubble the paint around the gas opening. this is because BDM used tanks with raised bungs instead of flush bungs, and they used bondo to fill it all in and make the tanks flush with the bung opening. What happens is the bondo being so close to the opening (in my case, there was bondo over the bung as well), acts like a sponge and wicks up the gas vapors. this causes the paint to bubble. no way around it. My tanks are 3800 miles old, so they had OE paint covered with a second coat of the satin black. the actual bubbling was between the OE paint and originally applied bondo. tanks were stripped of paint layers and they had a pretty good coating of "factory" bondo over most of the tank surface, mostly on the tops to get the "flush" action going with the raised bungs.

So, if you ever have your tanks fixed for paint bubbling, MAKE SURE the body shop removes all bondo and paint at least 1/4" to 3/16" from the bung opening. it should be raw steel, no paint. All gas caps will cover that much margin so you don't see it, and you can even use a paint saver ring permanently applied on the tank or a two piece cap. I'm going to use Landmark two piece caps on my tanks when done, my bud is machining the cap inserts so they sit extra flush with the tanks. yes there will be pics :D
 
Gmutoagrsv

Gmutoagrsv

Active Member
I love the bracket for the coils. What brand are they can I still find them? I have been dying to get rid of the original one off of my mastiff and find something that looks better.
 
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