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Got a couple of issues I need help troubleshooting...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Irish Viking, May 22, 2018.

  1. Irish Viking

    Irish Viking Till Valhalla!
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    So, when I bought my 2010 K9 last month, I was made aware that it came with a couple issues. Here they are:

    1) the kill switch does not work
    2) the brake lights do not work when the FRONT brake is used. *They work fine with the rear brake, but not the front brake.

    I found the replacement control modules (thinking the kill switch and brake light issue might be because of a bad hand control module), but when the new one was installed - the same issues remained and the added issue of the turn signal not working occurred. So, I had the old one put back in.

    Those are my issues: no brake light and no kill switch.

    I appreciate any help in troubleshooting these issues.

    Thanks!


    Liam
     
  2. Hirter6Pack

    Hirter6Pack Not Quite A Guru
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    If it any thing like my 04 l would look at the connection under the tank where the cable from the right hand module plugs into the main harnes. Look for wires pulled out of the connector, bent pins inside the connector or not being plugged in all the way :2cents:
     
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  3. Irish Viking

    Irish Viking Till Valhalla!
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    Got any photos of the area you are speaking of?

    Thanks!
     
  4. Hirter6Pack

    Hirter6Pack Not Quite A Guru
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    Took this off the bigdogisback web site. He is plugging in the right side hand controls at the connection I was thinking of.
    IMG_2170.PNG
     
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  5. MossBerg590

    MossBerg590 Active Member

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    If it has the old r.i.p kit then your kill switch won't work. The run button functions as both the run and kill switch.
     
  6. MossBerg590

    MossBerg590 Active Member

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    As far as the front brake, try adjusting the magnet in the right hand control for the front brake
     
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  7. Irish Viking

    Irish Viking Till Valhalla!
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    Would you mind explaining both the RIP kit and the magnet thing you mentioned?

    Thanks!
     
  8. pknowles

    pknowles semi-retired...---... GURU
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    upload_2018-5-22_9-54-1.png upload_2018-5-22_9-54-1.png

    Part number 7 is the magnet I believe and if you take the seat off and take a picture straight down on the right side of the battery box ,someone will tell you if you have and ehc or rip kit installed. Hope this helps. If you don't have a service manual do a search for the manual . member Broadband has a dropbox link
     
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  9. Irish Viking

    Irish Viking Till Valhalla!
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    Alrighty - I will take a peek this weekend!

    Many thanks!
     
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  10. Irish Viking

    Irish Viking Till Valhalla!
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    still haven't got around to troubleshooting...
    I'd rather ride! I gotta fix this though.
    Any major concerns with removing the tank to check the wires?
     
  11. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    For checking electrical connections, you'll have to remove the tank. If carbureted, it's easy to drain the tank. Just remove the cap, put the fuel petcock on reserve, and remove the hose from the carb and route it into a can. Or just leave the petcock in the off position and undo the fuel line at the petcock and attach a hose draining into a can. Good time to take out the petcock and check the screens for debris. Also gives clues as to the health of your tank liner.
    Fuelies are trickier bcs they lack a petcock to turn off...my 2010 Bagger EFI Bagger has an equalization hose in the lowest most forward point. Don't know about EFI K9's. I have made a mess with fuel every time I have pulled the tank. No flames, Sparks, and plenty of ventilation. Think I'll do it outside next time. Even in winter. But a Bulldog tank is shaped different than a K9, it's got a low spot in front where that equalization hose is located. But anyway you cut it, that hose has to come off to remove the tank. A K9 tank is flat on the underside and higher in front, so it might drain completely out of the fuel supply hose.
    Be careful of hitting the top of the tank on the speedo mount bracket. Some guys remove it..I just put a cloth or some tape on there and am careful getting the tank off.
    If you go to all of that trouble, it's pretty easy to take apart all of the jst connectors, clean them, then lightly coat with dielectric grease. I used shrink-tubing on each jst connection in the entire wiring harness. Took me an extra half day or better, but in the end you have a waterproof and reliable system. Smart to do them one at a time if you have any issues with organizational skills...haha. Some guys recommend removing the jst for the headlight to reduce possibility of a short or bad ground, which can make heat in the bulb.

    With regard to your brake lights, Paul's nice diagram notes item #7 is a magnet that activates the front brake light mechanism. It does so by passing near the little rod you see in the lower diagram. Look at the thumb buttons and see the wire with the little rod? That is the other part of the sensor, and it's proximity to #7 can be adjusted with a small Allen screw in the housing. Make sure they do not touch, just pass near. The sensor in the foot brake is internal in the brake cylinder. If neither of them work in producing a brake light, you probably have a connection issue....made much easier to find with a multimeter, or hell, just a simple screwdriver-type light bulb continuity tester. In your case I'd bet on the sensor or a connector bcs the rear works.
    Old man's wisdom: if your brake lights don't work, be sure you are not last in the group......(point: get that one fixed.)
     
    #11 SKOGDOG, Jun 21, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2018
  12. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    Oops..duplicate post
     
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