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HARD TO SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL...WHY

Discussion in 'General' started by TylerDavin06K9, Oct 6, 2013.

  1. TylerDavin06K9

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    Ever since I've owned this bike, it has been hard to shift into neutral. You have to rev the throttle, and attempt to shift in just after the peak of the rev. I cant imagine this is right, and makes for a very awkward red light wait, because at that point its legit impossible to shift into neutral. Is this common with big dogs, or is my transmission just extra ridiculous?
    thanks
     
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  2. jjarkys

    jjarkys Active Member

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    Your not alone. Many have had the same problem. I have to get there from second. You'll find lots of info here if you search for this issue.
     
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  3. 1BADK9

    1BADK9 Limited Edition Member
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  4. aspen874

    aspen874 Well-Known Member
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    It does work, may have to do it a couple of times, I can barely identify a wrench and was still able to do it.
     
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  5. francoblay1

    francoblay1 The Spaniard

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    X2 :2thumbs:
     
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  6. Tdubb

    Tdubb Active Member

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    Once it's adjusted you should be able to roll up to a light and pop it up into neutral at idle speed while you're still moving - no problem. It you're sitting at a light it still should pop into neutral at idle. It it doesn't, just roll on a small amount of throttle and it should pop into neutral. I actually have found it pops into neutral better than my Harley did (although I had a baker 6'speed and a Barnett carbon fiber clutch on the Hog).
     
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  7. TylerDavin06K9

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    Hey right on guys, I sure do appreciate it! I'm going to do this today in my garage! Hopefully I'll get it where it needs to be!

    Thanks again!
     
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  8. 1BADK9

    1BADK9 Limited Edition Member
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    Let us know if that hooks you up man. :2thumbs:
    Oh and just a note remove the adjusting cover by using a non marring (plastic or wood) hammer and tap lightly with another hammer to turn the cover counter clock wise, My dumb ass tried to pry it off at first.... didn't know it was threaded.
     
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  9. Viking

    Viking Biker
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    Another technique is to shift into N right before the bike comes to a stop. Try the adjustment and then the technique, at least for me it works like a champ.
     
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  10. bohussound

    bohussound Active Member

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    I had that same problem with shifting into neutral but after Andrew fixed my transmission it's working perfect.
    It might be that the big nut is lose in the primary.
    You should send a pm to Andrew he'll know what to do about it.
     
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  11. haze324

    haze324 Active Member

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    I always have to rev it a bit to land into neutral when the bikes at idle. Or like already said put in neutral as I'm slowing down to stop.

    Maybe I should adjust my clutch as well!! My last BD was the same way, figured that's just how they are.
     
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  12. Dan22644

    Dan22644 Member

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    I had the same problem on my 05 Bulldog, adjusted the clutch and changed primary oil and it got better, but was still there. Talked to the Baker guys in Daytona during Bike Week and they said if your clutch is getting worn out it will still be difficult to get into neutral even with it adjusted correctly. It had 20,000 miles, mostly from the previous owner.

    After the tranny blew up at Biketoberfest, I had it rebuilt and replaced the clutch. It's much easier to get into neutral now, but I still blip the throttle sometimes out of habit...



    Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
     
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  13. Nukeranger

    Nukeranger Nukeranger
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    x2. Mine also went into neutral easier when I changed my fluids.
     
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  14. C00lHandLuke

    C00lHandLuke Active Member

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    Mine has a hard time with neutral and my neutral light is out. I have a hard time with it.
     
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  15. Viking

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    Clean the connector on top of your tranny !
     
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  16. C00lHandLuke

    C00lHandLuke Active Member

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    Will do. Thanks a lot!!!
     
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  17. Diesel Dan

    Diesel Dan Well-Known Member

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    Also make sure you have the CORRECT amount of fluid in your primary that your clutch takes...........should be 1 Quart of whatever fluid your paticular clutch takes...:)...my friends bike was hard to find neutral.....I serviced his primary and adjusted the clutch,it works perfect now......
     
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  18. MUTTDOG

    MUTTDOG New Member

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    Tyler, I had the same problem until I pulled the Primary Cover, pulled out the gear assembly, and tightened the Clutch Hub Nut to about 150 pounds...
     
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  19. Viking

    Viking Biker
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    I also had the trust bearing go out on me and the effect was the same just more progressively worsening. New bearing, push plate, and push rod from Baker together with a new clutch cable from Curtis and the bike ran like new yet again. :up:

    Not too cool to ride a uHaul with the bike in the back from Florida to Atlanta though....:cursin:
     
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  20. Sven

    Sven Well-Known Member

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    Finding N is twofold:

    1. Loose clutch hub nut = Lever loses initial play at the lever upon constant adjustments.
    2. Warp clutch plates = Hard to find N but lever never moves as if [adding more slack like a loose nut] would cause. Therefore, the nut is not the problem, the plates are in question. Note the two differences.

    Clutch design of the pressure plate causes N loss:

    A. When plates separate, the gap is so narrow, if a plate touches another plate, it creates tension against the dog gears and is hard to pull the dog out of the opposing gear. Why? It keeps tension on the friction plates to keep moving [the steels].
    B. Place all steels onto each other. Look for air gaps that cause the metal to buckle and flex out of a flat position due to heat.
    C. Plates have memory and need to be assembled in one direction. If for example you place palm against palm, notice how your fingers press into each other. Lay one palm over the back of the hand, bend fingers now. Notice how both fingers move in the same direction.
    D. This says to install plates with cut edges facing you. When steels are stamped out of flat sheet metal, the sheer is round on one side of the steel plate, and a sharp edge is the other side. Note those directions on both friction and steels. This helps from indiscriminate assembly of plates in any old direction> which begins to cause a drag on the pack. Replace any warp plate to stop that next plate that keeps the dog from disengaging out of the other gear.

    A pressure plate [design] can either be made as a steel type 'wave plate' or uses a flat designed pressure plate cast out of aluminum and machined flat on one side.

    I. A wave plate needs to be pushed flat upon assembly. When the wave begins to concave, this too is like a warp kind of action where the plate cannot flex flat when the lever is pulled. Therefore, the next plate is [touching the other] which makes up the pack's (full length of compression). When the plate cannot flatten, there is no gap that separates the plates. That is why you need a visual so as to see a flat wave plate when all plates are assembled.

    II. A flat [steel] pressure plate acts like an aluminum made plate. It has only the plates to [create a touch] as far as who is causing N to hang up? The wave plate would cause a drag if the wave is more concave than flat, or mimics the aluminum plate. This type pressure plate may not show any clutch plates to be wrinkled, but pleasantly worn out instead. This causes the wave plate to concave when the clutch is released/pulled in.

    III. Eliminate either a steel friction plate warp, or a pressure plate wave out of spec, needing to be flat in other words. Note the different designed plate application on your bike. Find who is in need of proper assembly? Who is flat so as to find N like butter. Your pressure plate design is one address needing attention. Clear that warp, then address the many [steel] plates as per [direction]assembly. In other words, a steel friction can have both warp and wave of that pressure plated design, but an aluminum pressure plate has only the warp of the steels/frictions to blame as far as finding N much easier.

    Make sense?
     

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