How To service your forks

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Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
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Mouse... that is a great idea. Glad it worked out for ya. It must have took me an hour just to do the how to. YIKES!!

Billy... just as I responded to your email

Get a good penetrating oil (PB BLaster is a good one or at least a wd40) and spray them down good. Let them sit for a couple hours... heck spray it every 30mins and let it sit. Allow it work in and try it again.

Maybe put the electrical tape over it... to the strap can't slide upwards and grip right onto the cap with the strap wrench.

Are the forks still on the bike? That will make life easier. And the worst case scenario, is a chisel and a hammer... tap it off in the direction it goes (lefy loosey). Then you have to buy a new one but its off.

I believe Raywood had a stuck one before... I would say PM him but right he's at sturgis.
 

mouse

New Member
My caps were stuck real bad I talked to tech at Tampa Big Dog and he said try penatrating oil. if that didn't work put a rubber strap wrench on the cap and put a lot of tension on it and then hit around the seam with a rubber mallet to shock it loose. I had to do it on mine it worked. Hope this helps.
 

billyberoux

Member
Gasman,
Great how to! I followed it to the letter and other than my dustcaps being a bitch to remove it all went without a hitch. Before servicing the forks I was getting a bit of vibration noise at high RPM and clunking in the forks over bumps. I though I might have broken something in the fork assembly. When I got it all apart everything looked fine. Now after reassembly the vibration noise seems worse and still get the clunking. Any ideas?
 

billyberoux

Member
they seem fine. wheels rotates freely. the vibration sounds like it is in the upper fork assembly. with the damper rod and spring just sitting on top of each other in the fork tube i'm surprised it wasn't vibrating from day one.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
The spacer went in tight? May want to make your own tech thread on this problem.

Thanks Scuba.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
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You should have to compress the springs a bit with the spacers on top when installing the fork caps. If not then the springs not being compressed would allow them to move around, make alot of noice and front forks not function correctly.

When you pull your fork caps the spacer should want to shoot out. Then with that happening the fork tube should slide into the lower leg freely.
 

billyberoux

Member
i did have to compress the springs in order to get the caps back on. i thought you were asking if it was a tight fit just sliding the spring and spacer into the tube.
 

billyberoux

Member
they looked ok but tell me this, should the spacer be able to slide over the bushing or would that indicate the bushings have worn too thin? when i slid the spacer then the washer then the new seal over the top of the fork tube and then slid them down to the bushing i was able to slide the spacer over the bushing
 

billyberoux

Member
just so i have it right, as i'm looking at that picture the bushing is the white/grey band at the end of the fork tube, then the spacer is a little to the right, then the washer then the seal. what does that bushing do? make a tight fit for the fork tube in the lower leg? it sounds like the vibration is all the way at the top of the fork tube by the upper tree..
 

dogvet

Banned
just so i have it right, as i'm looking at that picture the bushing is the white/grey band at the end of the fork tube, then the spacer is a little to the right, then the washer then the seal. what does that bushing do? make a tight fit for the fork tube in the lower leg? it sounds like the vibration is all the way at the top of the fork tube by the upper tree..
The bushing at the bottom of the fork tube slides inside the lower fork leg. The other bushing (next to the washer and seal) presses into the lower fork leg and slides on the fork yube.

These bushings are teflon coated. When tou can see the copper exposed under the teflon, the bushings need to be replaced. You will end up with metal to metal contact between the bushings and fork tube and/or fork leg which will accelerate wear (especially in the lower leg). The bushing in the picture needs to be replaced. When you see this type of wear, the bore of the lower leg should be inspected for wear where this bushing rides. This can cause excessive clearance in the forks which can result in seal leaks and reduced dampening in the front end.:2thumbs:
 

billyberoux

Member
well shit! there was zero teflon on either of the bushings... no wonder my shit is vibrating like a mother f' er. so now i have to break down the whole fork assembly again. at least i i know how to do it so it will go quicker this time but how do i get the old bushing off and the new ones on? any trick to it?

thanks man!
 

TCALZ06

Well-Known Member
Gas,

What is the normal mileage that you need to do this at?
I think my manual just says to change the fork oil and check the bearings at 10K

I'm getting pretty close to 10K now

Thanks
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
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Do it up.

For me I would say that every other year you should change fork oil. The seals are a seperate issue, some would say to leave well enough.
 

TheCleaner

Member
forks stuck

Hey fellas, I powder coated both my tubes and sleeves...well when I reassembled them I dont have any suspension. They are stuck in one position. I cut out the seal cause I thought the powder coat made it too tight, but that didnt do anything...the washer underneath is moving freely so now im not sure why i cant just pull off the sleeve from the tube? And yes i did remove the bolt from the dampening rod underneath. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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