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Lost Clutch (I think)

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Iowachopper, Oct 17, 2017.

  1. BWG56

    BWG56 Guru

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  2. PROFLYER

    PROFLYER SWOLE

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    Yep, buy the new one. I have a spare setup with the cast style aluminum carrier I'm saving as I'm sure one of my two dogs will need it someday. I wouldn't sell it to you, as I'd feel bad doing that knowing it's a part with a high failure rate. I think MOST of the failure is due to the clutch nut coming loose, but that is really anyone's guess.

    Check those clutch plates and some of the other parts to make sure the metal that was floating around in there didn't tear them up, otherwise you should just need the new carrier and pressure plate.
     
  3. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Will do, it all makes sense now. The reason that pushrod felt like it was all the way in and bottomed out is because it was. The carrier was in a bind and stuck in a sideways angle. When I loosened the 4 bolts on the pressure plate it all snapped back in place and the pushrod went back to its normal seated position. I did drain and change the fluids when I bought it and there was some micro metal dust on the magnetic drain plug and this time little to none. I have to wonder how long its been this way I am amazed it even ran. Looking back all the random clunking noises I was hearing from my case was likely that and not "they are all like that" as I've heard. That carrier was probably bouncing around and my chain slapping the case. I'm just glad its fairly simply and dint get worse. I'll continue to update on my repair.
     
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  4. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Quick question, both my outer and inner hub have grooves worn in them from the discs. Should I replace those as well?
     
  5. woodbutcher

    woodbutcher Mr. Old Fart member #145
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    can't say whether to or not, but, how much fun is it to tear everything apart again just so you can replace something you know may be bad???????
     
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  6. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Funny, my thoughts exactly.
     
  7. Th3InfamousI

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    If you buy from baker they only sell you the whole basket with the inner hub too.

    Sounds like you should just go ahead and get the new inner hub. By the way the inner hub was upgraded to a hardened one as well.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
     
  8. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Looking at the cost of individual parts and the damage to what I have I just ordered a complete Baker clutch assembly from WSW. Made me a great deal and should be here next week. Thanks again for all the help, advice and guidance. Ill post my completion when its done.
     
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  9. Th3InfamousI

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    Yep agreed, if you didn't break it yet the parts have all been upgraded to non cast and hardened. So new is the way to go.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
     
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  10. PROFLYER

    PROFLYER SWOLE

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    You're set now. Remember RED loctite on that clutch nut (I'm assuming he's sending you a new one with the washer) and 150ftlbs of torque. Let it cure overnight before you put fluid in and ride it. You can button it all back up and even pour the primary fluid in, just don't ride it so it cures hard.
     
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  11. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Can't wait, I loved the bike the way it was but I bet it will be that much better with a complete clutch!
     
  12. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Got all my parts! I hope to install it late this week, given the weather in Iowa no real hurry. One questions from reading the service manual. Do I really need to remove the engine drive sprocket nut and washer? Seems like I might be able to put the chain on the hub assembly and more or less slide it back on. I can't believe the quality in the new one compared to the old. Thanks again foor everybody's input.
     
  13. BWG56

    BWG56 Guru

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    Try it first but I wouldn't twist it too hard, if ya can't get it on then remove the front sprocket.
     
  14. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Thanks, I'll grab a socket just in case.
     
  15. Th3InfamousI

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    It should go on it you remove the plastic chain adjuster shoe.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
     
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  16. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    You do not need to remove the front sprocket.

    Remove the adjuster and it will come off easily. I’ve done it many times.
     
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  17. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    That's the plan, I'll probably still grab a socket just in case. Glad to here. Thanks!
     
  18. cdogg556

    cdogg556 Guru

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    :agree: Yep, I just had mine off, no need to remove the front sprocket.
     
  19. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    Well I have all the parts. I plan to assemble it this weekend. I cant believe the quality in the new Baker assembly compared to the old one. Shout out to Curtis at WildSteedWorx for providing the parts and the information along with them.
     
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  20. Iowachopper

    Iowachopper Member
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    First off don't laugh.....

    I installed the clutch assembly and when putting checking and re-installing the pivot plate bolts I broke one off in the flanged up. How you ask? Well........as I tightened it, it didn't seem right, I lowered my ft pounds to 15 and snapped It BECAUSE I had not installed the throw out bearing so the screws went all the way in, bottomed out on the carrier bearing and there ya go. Good news is I was able to get it out no problem so that sets the stage for my next question. I have it all back in correctly and have the pivot plate bolts at 10 ft pounds and I'm scared to go any farther. The clutch diaphram spring is pretty flat by continuing to screw it in I'm afraid to do the same thing again. I have the clutch pushrod tube installed and screwed nearly all the way in with about 1/8 of threads showing about the adjustment nut. I sent this same question to Curtis WSW but looks like he's on vacation. (That's who I got the clutch from). Appreciate any input. Thanks!
     

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