Replacing Stator

Discussion in 'How-To' started by Pitbu1l, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    My bike is actually an American Ironhorse and replaced the stator before (2012). How do you test just the stator or just the voyager regulator?
     
  2. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    I did the stator, rotor and regulator.
     
  3. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    unplug it and put your multi-meter on VAC.
    you should have 20-60 VAC. It should be ~20 at idle then rise as you rev it.
     
  4. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    I did. Stator seems to be putting enough out but the battery isn’t charging. Could I have gotten a bad regulator?
     
  5. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    Or is it possible that my battery is bad?
     
  6. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    What do you mean “seems to be”? Did you check voltage at stator. If so what was it?

    If it is within range then next check if it’s charging at battery.

    Check battery voltage (DC)

    Engine off the battery should be ~12-13

    Start the bike and it should go up to 13.5-14.5 depending on state of charge

    It should elevate a little when you rev it.
     
  7. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    At 2000 rpm it’s at about 35 volts on my meter. I jump the bike off of my car and it’ll read mid 12s and slowly go down.
     
  8. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    i guess I could also test the wire that goes out of the regulator to.... I think the battery? Not sure if it actually goes to the battery as I didn’t reroute it, I just spliced it.
     
  9. TapioK

    TapioK Well-Known Member

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    It does kind of help charging would the wire from VR actually be connected to the batterySplicing the wire from VR to battery is not really the recommended way to do it. Replace the whole wire.
    Btw, did you check the fuse or a breaker witch ever you have on the wire between VR and battery? If stator works, VR works still no charging it sounds like fuse or your splice is crap....
     
    #49 TapioK, May 15, 2019
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  10. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    Haha. Probably. Does the wire go straight from the regulator to the positive terminal in the battery?
     
  11. TapioK

    TapioK Well-Known Member

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    Yes. There should be a 40 amp fuse under the left sidecover near the battery. Connect the VR wire there, and do check the fuse is OK. Wire from that fuse goes straight to battery +. If there is a small square box instead of fuse, that would be a breaker. Would be a good idea to replace that with 40 amp fuse. Those breakers are known to cause problems.
    BTW, how many wires leaves your VR? If two, the other one would be ground and can be attached under VR mounting bolt.
     
  12. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    Excellent. I'll try this when I get home. I'm at work now and didn't think it'd be a good idea to do the work and test it at 3 am when this popped into my head. My wife and son would not have been pleased with me. On the VR the only wires are the two that go into the plug that plugs into the Stator and the one that we are currently speaking of that goes to the battery. The VR is grounded by the frame and I actually added another wire from the mounting bolt to the frame for a better ground. Hopefully this will solve my issue. I'll let you know when I get home. Thanks for all the help.
     
  13. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    All true^ except IMO the breakers work just fine. They are sold and used all over the industry.

    The temporary move to a 40A maxi fuse was a poor excuse for a band aid by BDM for a bad VR.
     
  14. TapioK

    TapioK Well-Known Member

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    Unless you have automatic breaker. Those are pain if trying to figure if there is a short. Them being self setting. Or when those rust inside. I still have a breaker on my -03, been there since -03. works just fine, but it ain’t self setting.
    I have heard ppl claiming that the 40 amp fuse protects battery and EHC from overcharging.
    How can that be when those fuses can take 80 Volts before melting?
     
  15. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    I put the self resetting on mine:D

    I do agree they would make diagnostics more difficult, and yes if they got corroded, that would as well.
     
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  16. Th3InfamousI

    Th3InfamousI Administrator
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    Yea soldering that wire isn't a good idea, there's a reason it comes at least 6' long. However if you already cut it what are you going to do now?

    I just bought a big dog and saw someone had soldered that wire and I just threw the whole VR in the trash because of it. The VR is such an integral part of the whole system, no reason to add issues to it.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
     
    #56 Th3InfamousI, May 15, 2019
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  17. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    Hopefully I won’t need a new regulator...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  18. TapioK

    TapioK Well-Known Member

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    At this point I would make sure the crimp is excellent and that the wire from crimp to battery is in good shape. No more crimps on route etc.
     
  19. cd24747

    cd24747 Active Member

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    Good idea. I’ll give it a shot. I’ll let you guys know when I get home. Thanks again guys!


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  20. Jwooky

    Jwooky Well-Known Member

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    If you have to splice it, crimp would be my last choice. And crimp how? With but connector? The all the current is going through the but connector between the wires?

    That's a lot of current~25-30 amps

    Soldering/shrink wrapping it solid creates the least resistance
     

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