Speed sensor question

Gathering

shansel88

Member
Can anyone tell me an easy way to check the spped sensor - 2004 chopper.

I have new Digital Dakota and worked fine, yesterday caught in rain, but think it was working until I hit pothole on I95 going 80mph. Now speed sensor doesn't appear to work at all. Pulled out speed sensor and there is a gauge in it, not sure why or when that occurred.

Just not sure how to test the 3 wire connector??
I read somewhere about meter wire and spin back tire, but not sure which wires to meter, as i thought it said meter on AC???
Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Sam
 

shansel88

Member
I believe this is the test??

SPEED SENSOR TEST

With the key on probe the bike harness red wire for 12 volts.
Probe the bike harness black wire for continuity to ground.
Using the proper equipment, raise the rear tire.
While spinning the rear tire put the Black probe to ground Red probe to green signal wire.
You should see between above 0 but less than 6 volts.
If no voltage registers, replace the speed sensor.
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
I’ve used this on my 03 but not sure if that’s the same as your 04:

Test speed sensor you will have to raise the rear wheel, place bike in 6th gear, disconnect sensor, test for 12volts on the red and for >0 to 6 volts on the green signal wire while turning the rear tire.
 

shansel88

Member
Damn - thanks for the info, because I sure as shit would have left the bike in Neutral and wondered what went wrong, lol!

Thanks again,
Sam
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
My pin/window/star needs to have an air gap between the core's titty nipple and the passing of the pin/star/window. The pin/star/window can't have a narrower or wider gap on the core's passing. This changes the (pressure) wave length I believe. So design wise, the air gap has a measured number used. This gap has to remain constant around the circumference of the placement of the rotating fixture (pin/star/etc.) But say something as thick as a business card or less can be passed thru the air gap. That's somewhat of a close enough formula chasing down a lost signal.

Since the speedo worked during the rain (I assume) and when the road bang was noticed, so was the speedo reading. Here is where the confusion comes in. Did the bang move the stationary sensor into the rotating pin/window/etc.? That means I'd have to look at each pin/window/star 'to find a mark caused by the bang.' That means a lot of gap closed up to nick the core's nipple (I assume).

Which now brings up two things:
1. Did the core move enough to have the water enter and short the wave from moving up the wire? So say the road bump closed the air gap and bent the core or wherever that nick is where (I assume) the core's nipple took the hit... unless you say different in location.
2. Or the nick was done when the wheel was being serviced for a new tire, bearing packing, etc., and all that banging around not noticing where the nick came from. Now it rains and finally the coincidence moved some wet into the sensor body and the [nicked] core had enough of a gap between core and sensor body so 'water could enter' and short the signal this way.

Diagnostic wise, I want to sight down at the air gap and make sure the gap remains the same when the wheel spins.
Diagnostic wise, I want to take a heat gun to the sensor's body and evap the wet out of it before I chase AC out of the wires with a spin.
Diagnostic wise, I want to move the core's nipple and make sure the bang did not loosen the core enough and crush wire(s) inside the sensor and render it useless.
Prevention wise, I'd run some (amazing goop) glue over the core's pin entry to the body, let dry and razor cut over the tip of the core's nipple so that end of the nipple is exposed again; so no water can enter into the body. I'd also goop the wires exiting the body as well.

Signed,
Tormenting the motorcycling public one post at a time
 

shansel88

Member
The sensor is located in the transmission. And its probaably 3/4" sensor. The tip was hit, but not sure it that was before this or then, as I dont see how it would get hit during pot hole, but there was not spacer in it as I beteive there should be??

Can anyone confirm that??/

Also, I think I can test it with a prox sensor tester, by just connecting the wires and placing metal object in front of it?

Can anyone confirm that??

Either way, the speerdometer did work through the rain and 100% quit when the pot hole was hit. Speedometer still has power, just not signal to odometer/Speedometer - or that part in the speedometer broke??
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
My pin/window/star needs to have an air gap between the core's titty nipple and the passing of the pin/star/window. The pin/star/window can't have a narrower or wider gap on the core's passing. This changes the (pressure) wave length I believe. So design wise, the air gap has a measured number used. This gap has to remain constant around the circumference of the placement of the rotating fixture (pin/star/etc.) But say something as thick as a business card or less can be passed thru the air gap. That's somewhat of a close enough formula chasing down a lost signal.

Since the speedo worked during the rain (I assume) and when the road bang was noticed, so was the speedo reading. Here is where the confusion comes in. Did the bang move the stationary sensor into the rotating pin/window/etc.? That means I'd have to look at each pin/window/star 'to find a mark caused by the bang.' That means a lot of gap closed up to nick the core's nipple (I assume).

Which now brings up two things:
1. Did the core move enough to have the water enter and short the wave from moving up the wire? So say the road bump closed the air gap and bent the core or wherever that nick is where (I assume) the core's nipple took the hit... unless you say different in location.
2. Or the nick was done when the wheel was being serviced for a new tire, bearing packing, etc., and all that banging around not noticing where the nick came from. Now it rains and finally the coincidence moved some wet into the sensor body and the [nicked] core had enough of a gap between core and sensor body so 'water could enter' and short the signal this way.

Diagnostic wise, I want to sight down at the air gap and make sure the gap remains the same when the wheel spins.
Diagnostic wise, I want to take a heat gun to the sensor's body and evap the wet out of it before I chase AC out of the wires with a spin.
Diagnostic wise, I want to move the core's nipple and make sure the bang did not loosen the core enough and crush wire(s) inside the sensor and render it useless.
Prevention wise, I'd run some (amazing goop) glue over the core's pin entry to the body, let dry and razor cut over the tip of the core's nipple so that end of the nipple is exposed again; so no water can enter into the body. I'd also goop the wires exiting the body as well.

Signed,
Tormenting the motorcycling public one post at a time
Welcome back NOLTT !!! :whoop: :old2:

:chopper:
 

BigDogRick

Active Member
When you sort out the issue, if the transmission sensor proves faulty, I have a new Dakota Digital sensor I put in and replaced with an adjustable Thunder Max sensor before I learned that the speedo has a built in speed calibration program. I also had a spacer under the old sensor that disintegrated when I removed it. I have successfully installed both the Dakota Digital and the Thunder Max without the paper thin spacer and have now successfully calibrated my speedo to +/- 1 mph (and I agree with Sven, I think it does somehow matter). If you need the Dakota Digital sensor $25 plus shipping and its yours. I also had my early speedo quit and it was a loose connection in the back of the speedo in the pin connector.
 

BigDogRick

Active Member
When you sort out the issue, if the transmission sensor proves faulty, I have a new Dakota Digital sensor I put in and replaced with an adjustable Thunder Max sensor before I learned that the speedo has a built in speed calibration program. I also had a spacer under the old sensor that disintegrated when I removed it. I have successfully installed both the Dakota Digital and the Thunder Max without the paper thin spacer and have now successfully calibrated my speedo to +/- 1 mph (and I agree with Sven, I think it does somehow matter). If you need the Dakota Digital sensor $25 plus shipping and its yours. I also had my early speedo quit and it was a loose connection in the back of the speedo in the pin connector.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

shansel88

Member
Thanks Rick, I am hoping to check it today.

I'm hoping its not the speedometer as I have a digital Dakota that's only a year old. If its the sensor I'll let you know, for sure.
 

Mr. Wright

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Thanks Rick, I am hoping to check it today.

I'm hoping its not the speedometer as I have a digital Dakota that's only a year old. If its the sensor I'll let you know, for sure.
If it is the speedometer, send it back to Dakota, and they will fix it and get it back to you in about a week.
 

Philip Lind

New Member
When you sort out the issue, if the transmission sensor proves faulty, I have a new Dakota Digital sensor I put in and replaced with an adjustable Thunder Max sensor before I learned that the speedo has a built in speed calibration program. I also had a spacer under the old sensor that disintegrated when I removed it. I have successfully installed both the Dakota Digital and the Thunder Max without the paper thin spacer and have now successfully calibrated my speedo to +/- 1 mph (and I agree with Sven, I think it does somehow matter). If you need the Dakota Digital sensor $25 plus shipping and its yours. I also had my early speedo quit and it was a loose connection in the back of the speedo in the pin connector.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hey boss, I am interested in getting the part from you if you still have it available I live in Alabama. We can work out shipping and payment.
 
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