Vance & Hines w BTC baffles
- Thread starter Ridgeback9040
- Start date
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Thanks for doing the 3-way experiment. You're right - video can't approach the real thing for something like this.
So BCT was your favorite ?
So BCT was your favorite ?
Ridgeback9040
Member
Yes no doubt , I kind of didn’t like it at all without the baffles ... too deep of a sound and no “potato” sound that I like more ... so with the BCT baffles you get a louder sound than stock baffles (probably 30 % louder ) and the right mix of deep and that classic “potato” sound ... nice ! Again with the right slide hammer it was a breeze ...
Ed U. Cator
Higher Ed.
There's just one teensie weensie problem with that idea: you have to assure both flared ends are on the modified factory baffle so it doesn't rattle inside. Once cut and shortened, the radius likely changes. The original baffles are "polarized" so they operate properly in one direction (do not insert them in reverse). It's not easy to accurately flush cut the baffle unless you clamp it in a chop saw. Any inside or outside burred edges need smoothed. Cut off the flared end that went furthest up in the exhaust pipe and mig weld that onto the freshly cut end. Sand on a belt sander and "hope" they fit given the shorter radius from the modification.
How do I know this? Been there, done that. Took a few tries of tack welding/readjust/tack weld/readjust the flared end to get the proper radius so the whole baffle would easily slide into the pipe before I was spot on.... then finish welding and sand smooth. This was an experiment I wanted to try just for the heck of it while I was waiting for my BCT baffles to arrive. I would say the result wasn't worth the time & effort. Just slightly louder, a slightly lower tone, two filthy black hands, and a worn out sanding belt!
"hope" they fit given the shorter radius from the modification.
I'm just a dumb ass but I can't see how a radius changes by cutting the baffle in half". A little help please.
Ed U. Cator
Higher Ed.
David Watters
Member
Ed U. Cator
Higher Ed.
You are correct (my bad wording) so let me rephrase: technically, the radius would remain unchanged; the alignment into the pipe can change from a couple of issues:
- sloppy cuts that cause parts to not mate properly which slightly alters the radius of the baffle
- distorted or out of round from welding heat or clamping
please don't grade me on my artwork! 
- sloppy cuts that cause parts to not mate properly which slightly alters the radius of the baffle
- distorted or out of round from welding heat or clamping
please don't grade me on my artwork!
You are correct (my bad wording) so let me rephrase: technically, the radius would remain unchanged; the alignment into the pipe can change from a couple of issues:
- sloppy cuts that cause parts to not mate properly which slightly alters the radius of the baffle
- distorted or out of round from welding heat or clamping
View attachment 64153 please don't grade me on my artwork!
Not at all Ed U.
Last edited:
David Watters
Member
lol All good Ed
Ridgeback9040
Member
You are correct (my bad wording) so let me rephrase: technically, the radius would remain unchanged; the alignment into the pipe can change from a couple of issues:
- sloppy cuts that cause parts to not mate properly which slightly alters the radius of the baffle
- distorted or out of round from welding heat or clamping
View attachment 64153 please don't grade me on my artwork!
Got it !!
Clubba
Member
I agree. Made a world of difference. If you are going to install those BCT baffles, buy a flexible grabber claw from your auto parts store and grab them by the doughnut. I think it took me 10 minutes to install mine. That Tool makes the job a piece a cake.I have the Big City Thunder baffles in my bikes...one of the best things I ever bought, they sound awesome and make the bike run so much better. Throttle response is awesome with them installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ed U. Cator
Higher Ed.
Clubba is referring to a spring operated grabber:
I used a pair of very long needle nose pliers to insert the baffles into position. Wrapped a stout rubber band around the handles so the jaws would firmly grip the baffle. Had to insert baffles 7" inward due to hose clamps on the outer shields interfering at the 6" mark.
As for the BCT Monster baffles, there's a "slightly" lower exhaust tone but nothing remarkable and perceived loudness didn't change to that of factory V&H baffles. However, the bike accelerates & decelerates nicely and no need to rejet the carb.
I used a pair of very long needle nose pliers to insert the baffles into position. Wrapped a stout rubber band around the handles so the jaws would firmly grip the baffle. Had to insert baffles 7" inward due to hose clamps on the outer shields interfering at the 6" mark.
As for the BCT Monster baffles, there's a "slightly" lower exhaust tone but nothing remarkable and perceived loudness didn't change to that of factory V&H baffles. However, the bike accelerates & decelerates nicely and no need to rejet the carb.