Rear Tire/Belt Alignment

cj-in-kc

Member
My process of alignment / adjustment of the rear tire, simply measure the distance between dead center on the head of the axel bolt to the apex point on the rear of the swing-arm (as shown in illustration 2b below :job: lol) or use the handy tool as shown below.

Left Drive Illustration 2B
Axel Bolt ---- distance ---- Apex of frame/swingarm
@ --------------------------- >
|------------- x inches --------|

Allen wrench that fits in the screw hole left when removing the cover. Use a o-ring (or in this case piece of plastic) to "mark" the distance on one side, after getting the belt close to the correct tension.


Now do the same on the other side. As you can see in the picture below, the axel needs to get moved to the rear, when compared to the distance marked on the other side of the bike. Go ahead and loosen or tighten the screw that moves the axel forward / backward until the distance is the same on both sides.



Once complete, double check tension...


Chuck
 
Last edited:

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Ok, a simpler way. After reading those posts, reading Gas' thread and looking at the bike, I figured out the whole wire oring thing.

Adjust the tension on the belt to be close to spec, then adjust the alignment of the axel to be right on using the 90 degree tool idea.

I took an allen wrench that just fit into the screw hole on the back side of the axel, and placed a piece of plastic on the allen wrench (didn't have an oring handy) to keep track of the distance the axel was from the screw hole. (see pics below once there approved), then adjusted till aligned and rechecked tension. Good luck.
Hey cj, pics didn't load properly. Can you try again or email the pics to me and I will upload for you. atwoodr2 (at) wavecable (dot) com

But you are doing it right setting tension then verifing alignment. I use an old coat hanger (thanks chucktx). Cut the head off, staighten it out and cut/shorten it to the length you need from your rear axle to your swingarm axle or strut bolt. Bend one side to a 90 degree about 1" of it. Then take a small tie wrap and strap it on tight then cut the end off about a half inch after cutting it to a point (with point centered). You can stick the bent side in your swingarm axle (or other reference point) then slide the tie wrap down the wire to your wheel axle and repeat on other side and adjust appropriately.

:cheers: :cheers:
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
My process of alignment / adjustment of the rear tire, simply measure the distance between dead center on the head of the axel bolt to the apex point on the rear of the swing-arm (as shown in illustration 2b below :job: lol) or use the handy tool as shown below.

Left Drive Illustration 2B
Axel Bolt ---- distance ---- Apex of frame/swingarm
@ --------------------------- >
|------------- x inches --------|

Allen wrench that fits in the screw hole left when removing the cover. Use a o-ring (or in this case piece of plastic) to "mark" the distance on one side, after getting the belt close to the correct tension.


Now do the same on the other side. As you can see in the picture below, the axel needs to get moved to the rear, when compared to the distance marked on the other side of the bike. Go ahead and loosen or tighten the screw that moves the axel forward / backward until the distance is the same on both sides.



Once complete, double check tension...


Chuck
Chuck, I'm sure that would work but your betting that the drill holes for the cover are equal on each side of the swingarm. I would rather square the wheel with the front swingarm axle that should be square in the frame.

:cheers:
 

cj-in-kc

Member
so can you take a picture of how you'd get a good measurement from the front swingarm axel, to the wheel axel, on both sides of the bike..i must be approachingn it wrong because it doesn't seem like it's very easy to be accurate.
 

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
Chuck, I'm sure that would work but your betting that the drill holes for the cover are equal on each side of the swingarm. I would rather square the wheel with the front swingarm axle that should be square in the frame.

:cheers:
this is what Ray is talking about.......measuring from the swingarm bolt to the rear axle...

 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
The swing arm bolt on a pro street or the Bulldog anyway is recessed in and not a straight pull to the axle. You need to make a alignment tool to put in the swing arm bolt seeing how you do not want to measure in a angle.
On the rigid models, it says use the side of the slot to the center of the bolt as you are doing anyway but with a Allen wrench.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
so can you take a picture of how you'd get a good measurement from the front swingarm axel, to the wheel axel, on both sides of the bike..i must be approachingn it wrong because it doesn't seem like it's very easy to be accurate.
As I posted in my earlier post make yourself a 25 cent tool like this. Make sure the point you cut in the tie wrap is centered as you will turn it measuring both sides.



 

Big Ron

Well-Known Member
What Pound To Set Belt Deflection Tool ?

Guys, I've been digging around the post pile for a while and I need your help please.

My service manual for 07 K-9 under rear axle alignment does not state the belt deflection pound set, only the 3/16" deflection measurement. Is it to be set at 10 lbs. or more?
 

greybeard 59

Active Member
as far as the deflection goes adjust for the deflaction ,now for alignment you should be able to count exposed threads on the adjuster ,just make sure they have the same count & alignment should be good to go, ala the old swingarm belt drive secondary adjustment on my 84 wideglide. :2thumbs:
 

Big Ron

Well-Known Member
No problem on the deflection measurement, 3/16". Alignment, no problem I get that.

Deflection tool pound setting for drive belt is what I can't find in writing in my book.

Thanks though.
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I measure from the front of the slot to punch marks I made in the center of the bolts, but I have verified that my slots are both equal distance to the swingarm. This makes future alignments super quick. I will also make minor adjustments out of alignment to keep my belt tracking true. This avoids squealing and the damn bike will never track down the road true on a LSD anyway, esp not with the open primary.
 

TEXASDOG

TexasDog
Moe, does harley make a belt that fits your chopper? I tried 3 kinds of belts on my Mastiff and the Harley belt I have on now never sqeals. I was told by an old biker that harley belts are the strongest. Gates makes them and adds one more material that is not in any other belts.
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure. I only changed my belt once, when I changed my primary. I ordered a BD belt but they sent me the wrong one. I ran up to the local salvage yard and they had a new Panther that fit, so I used that. So far I'm happy with the Panther, and I'm getting close to 10k miles on it.
 
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