Smoke bellows out on occasions

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
BadBrad,
Before you pull the engine down did you check the crank case vent check valve? You said you had some engine work done and it is a possibility it was installed backwards. The white side of the valve goes towards the engine. It also might be bad, replace it it only cost $6. If it turns out to be you valve guides, get rid of the TP's. Some work good but some don't. I had about 11k on mine and was just before a failure. Hope this helps.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Don't the rocker box covers have to be removed to check the crank case vent check valve? Also, I got to thinking about the tappet screen. If it was plugged, I think it would keep oil from going to the head, so probably not a reason for oil burning in sputs like mine is. It rained yesterday and last night so I didn't get a chance to do the circles to the right like Jake talked about. I won't be home tonight but will try that tomorrow. If the check valve was not working properly, how would that make oil burn abruptly? I know it creates a vaccume and without this vaccume, I'm not sure what the results would be. Somehow, oil is getting into the cylinder (all at once), burning off, then building up again to do the same thing later.
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
is this something that I might be able to do? I have access to a press and a full machine shop at the GP facility I work at. I can't operate all the equipment, but I know folks who can. What all is involved in changing valve guides? Thanks all
Brad theres some specialty tools required for the Job...

20716: JIMS Valve Guide and Seal Tools

after the installation of the guides you still need to grind valves and seats.....might as well have a shop do the work...

"55"
 

Chris04Masitff

Well-Known Member
Calendar Participant
Brad the check valve is located on hose off rear cylinder . think about it like a pcv valve on a car.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
So let me get this straight. If the check valve is plugged or malfunctions, pressure can build in the crankcase and force oil into the intake, then get sucked into the cylinder? I didn't just figure that out. One of my brothers said this could be a possibility and sounds logical to me. That would sure make for an easy fix if this is all that is was. With the intermitant times this occurs and always during decelaration, it could be what's going on. Has anyone else here had a failed check valve and if so, what were your signs of the malfunction? Smoke during decel? If the valve guides were bad, wouldn't they smoke all the time? Just wishful thinking here.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Just a couple of more things to take into consideration. Having a pitbull, the oil tank is located underneathe the starter and is not gravity fed, so the check valve is probably less likely. I know that Big Dog has a new/improved breather gear that is driven by the pinion/cam gear. Could my breather gear be causing oil to build up, then forcing it into the intake? Not quite sure how all that works together but hoping someone here will know. Changing out the breather gear would be an easy fix. I'm still thinking that if the valve guides were bad, it would be smoking all the time and not just on occasions. Regardless of all that is happening, I know that S&S Rocker boxes are in my future.
 
Sorry, just got back.
The problem is most likely constant, it just builds up enough for you to see it during deceleration.
Yea, check the crankcase vent for proper direction and operations. Basically just a one way air valve. If the valve fails or is installed backwards, crankcase pressure builds up everywhere the oil is. So oil could leak out about anywhere, but it will find the weakest area to vent or leak oil out.
A usual symptom of a failed or reversed crankcase vent is the oil tank will try to pressurize are running just a little, and you can normally hear air trying to escape when removing the oil tank cap.

So just check it out. :2thumbs:

dead :cheers:
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Sorry, just got back.
The problem is most likely constant, it just builds up enough for you to see it during deceleration.
Yea, check the crankcase vent for proper direction and operations. Basically just a one way air valve. If the valve fails or is installed backwards, crankcase pressure builds up everywhere the oil is. So oil could leak out about anywhere, but it will find the weakest area to vent or leak oil out.
A usual symptom of a failed or reversed crankcase vent is the oil tank will try to pressurize are running just a little, and you can normally hear air trying to escape when removing the oil tank cap.

So just check it out. :2thumbs:

dead :cheers:
That's just it!! You don't see it on every deceleration. May not happen for quite a while, but when it happens, it's unmistakable! Looks like the smoke at a burn out competition. Thick and everywhere! :eek::eek: Sitting at idle or reving it up while in neutral, nothing. :confused: I'm not sure of the differences between the old and new breather gear, but I know the new gear does not have any marks to line up with the cam. Anyone have any information or opinion on how a breather gear could cause oil buildup and then causing it to get into the intake? John Sachs? Are you out there?
 
That's just it!! You don't see it on every deceleration. May not happen for quite a while, but when it happens, it's unmistakable! Looks like the smoke at a burn out competition. Thick and everywhere! :eek::eek: Sitting at idle or reving it up while in neutral, nothing. :confused: I'm not sure of the differences between the old and new breather gear, but I know the new gear does not have any marks to line up with the cam. Anyone have any information or opinion on how a breather gear could cause oil buildup and then causing it to get into the intake? John Sachs? Are you out there?

I doubt it's the breather gear. If it were, you'd have more issues than just smoke.
I'm sill thinking it's a build up of oil getting by the guides. Maybe the crankcase valve just fills up with oil, stops up and then you get to pretend to be the county bug sprayer for a few minutes until it clears itself again.
Plus if the guides are bad, that causes more crankcase pressure because of the compression in the cylinder escaping by the guides during opening and closing cycles of the valve itself.

just my :zz2cents:

:cheers:
 
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BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
OHHHH now you gonna ask for his help!!!!! After you pissed in his cheerios a while back:spank::spank:.....just sayin!!!:roll::roll:
I didn't piss in his Cheerios! When I first joined and didn't have a clue who anyone on this site was, I didn't understand how a piece of valve guide could get into the oil reservior and kindly asked him not to get his panties in a wad. I did make a forum appology and acknowledged that he was right and I'll never know as much as he has forgotten. :rolleyes: I've mended my ways. I know better now! He's the man! As well as a few others on here.

Take yourself Avdhunter. Had I known from the get go that you had prime duck hunting property, I would have been kissing your ass from day one! :yesnod:

I'm still in the learning curve and probably always will be. Compared to my good buddy John, I can only hope and pray that one day I can take what he teaches me and pass it on to another fellow BDB brother. I give all the credit to him..........and to the Lord of course. Been watching too many music award shows........."I want to thank God and everyone else that made this possible". :D

When your Big Dog is down, you learn to convert quickly from asshole to ass kisser. :roll::roll::roll:
 

avdhunter

Active Member
I didn't piss in his Cheerios! When I first joined and didn't have a clue who anyone on this site was, I didn't understand how a piece of valve guide could get into the oil reservior and kindly asked him not to get his panties in a wad. I did make a forum appology and acknowledged that he was right and I'll never know as much as he has forgotten. :rolleyes: I've mended my ways. I know better now! He's the man! As well as a few others on here.

Take yourself Avdhunter. Had I known from the get go that you had prime duck hunting property, I would have been kissing your ass from day one! :yesnod:

I'm still in the learning curve and probably always will be. Compared to my good buddy John, I can only hope and pray that one day I can take what he teaches me and pass it on to another fellow BDB brother. I give all the credit to him..........and to the Lord of course. Been watching too many music award shows........."I want to thank God and everyone else that made this possible". :D

When your Big Dog is down, you learn to convert quickly from asshole to ass kisser. :roll::roll::roll:
BWAhahahhahahhahahaah!!!!! I hear ya bro!!! Just givin ya sum crap!!! But I would do as mentioned and check everything externally that you can before ya" tear down an engine to get to a breather tube in the tank" type of thing ya know!!!!:loony::lol:
 

MARV

Well-Known Member
BWAhahahhahahhahahaah!!!!! I hear ya bro!!! Just givin ya sum crap!!! But I would do as mentioned and check everything externally that you can before ya" tear down an engine to get to a breather tube in the tank" type of thing ya know!!!!:loony::lol:

your on a roll! :roll:

Brad

pull the pipes
 

Eric

Banned
:confused::confused::confused::confused:

Leaded Gas...WTF are you talking about?


They haven't blended that shit in years, it's illegal for public consumer use! (Outta the pump)

The only leaded fuels I seen in years, is only a few of the racing fuels.

But the motor oils have additives in them to help with upper end lubrication ever since this became an issue when lead was removed from the fuels.

There is another way to help with this, but it's a secret!:D..:lol::lol::lol:

dead :D:2thumbs::cheers:
alright smart ass.. the sunoco has it ... its the standard.. 110 it is leaded.. yeah is race fuel.. but avaliable to the public.. right out front of the store... I run a gal or 2 through it evey 5 tanks or something.. I mix it with unleaded,, I know the lead works as a lube on the valve train..before the sunoco got in my local engine builder has it for sale @ his shop.... now then... wake up dead... & yeah it comes out of a pump.. seperate for that fuel...
 
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:






:D






:cheers:.....:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Brad,
You can try 1 other thing first.:eek:
Change your breather system around.
Remove vacuum hose to the front head,and block off the fitting,and the vacuum hose.
Remove 1 of the plugs at the rear of the case(near the oil pump).
Put a hose barb in the hole the plug came out of.
Put a piece of hose on the barb,and let hang to the street.
Remove the hose from the rear head to the air cleaner,install a longer piece of hose,and run it to the street as well.
If this doesn't fix your problem,then the heads are coming off for guides +.:rolleyes: Get rid of the TP rocker boxes.
John
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
FWIW,
If you're going to use leaded gas frequently,you will have a build up of shit on your valves,and combustion chambers that you won't believe.Be prepared to clean chambers,and replace the valves on a regular basis.:angry:
John
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Brad,
You can try 1 other thing first.:eek:
Change your breather system around.
Remove vacuum hose to the front head,and block off the fitting,and the vacuum hose.
Remove 1 of the plugs at the rear of the case(near the oil pump).
Put a hose barb in the hole the plug came out of.
Put a piece of hose on the barb,and let hang to the street.
Remove the hose from the rear head to the air cleaner,install a longer piece of hose,and run it to the street as well.
If this doesn't fix your problem,then the heads are coming off for guides +.:rolleyes: Get rid of the TP rocker boxes.
John
Thanks John. Just so that I have this right, take the front cylinder hose going to the carb and plug the fitting and the hose. Take the rear cylinder hose with the check valve, remove it, add a longer hose to the ground. Can you be more specific on which plug on the rear case needs a barb and hose run to ground? A picture would be even better. Just so I have this in my mind right, we're eliminating the chance of oil getting into the cylinders through the carb via heads. Is this right? So, if oil is still burning after this, the only way it could get there is by worn valve guides. One other thing. If this works, is it ok to run it like this? Also, would this be an idication that the check valve is not working properly or a line is plugged? Once I get clarification on which case plug to modify, I'll try this and let you know what happens. Thanks for your help.
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Brad,
On the rear head,you NEED to leave the 1 way valve in the hose.Just replace the piece of hose with a longer one LEAVING THE VALVE IN.
There's 2 1/4" allen pipe plugs at the rear of the case.... 1 at 90 degrees,the other at 45 degrees.Your choice as to which 1 you want to remove.Put a hose barb in the hole,and a piece of hose,and call it a day.Tell your wife you listened this time.:lol:
Hope it works for you.If not the heads are coming off.:bang:
John
 
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