Trans rebuild & Baker Belt Drive

[Bowhunter]

I decided that this winter I would do a little preventative maintenance on my transmission since Postman had transmission bearing trouble during the prime riding season.
So I contacted Andrew(Bigdogtech1) about bearing upgrade and replacing the factory drive with a Baker Belt Drive. He ordered the Baker Belt Drive for me and got the wheels in motion. I then proceeded to burn the hell out of my right hand which held up my end for 3 weeks.

Up on the lift for the upgrade:

Shut off the fuel, remove the battery, drain the oil, drain the primary fluid and remove the outer primary cover.

Remove the clutch, the crank sproket, and chain adjustment shoe. Then the inner primary.

Remove the transmission and get it on the way to Andrew. By the way, I removed the bolts on the transmission from the side by using a box end wrench that allowed removal without removing the shocks.

Stator cleaned and ready for new seal.

Removal of the crank seal was easy with a few taps from a sharp chisel on the rim and then a couple taps with a slide-hammer and it was out.

New seal(Provided by Kaptin @ Wild Steed) reversed, lubricated, and inserted onto the crankshaft bushing and slid into position.

New seal seated into place.

Removal of the stator cover, oil cleaned off the stator and block, cover cleaned and ready for replacement.

Stator cover replaced and ready for fitting of inner primary of belt drive.

Notice no transmission yet, Andrew was held up waiting on a new drive pulley from Baker. Transmission should be here Monday. Initial trial fit of the inner primary revealed a lack of clearance on the inner primary and it would not seat on the block. A little time with a Dremel tool and some careful removal of the tight spots and the inner primary is now seated on the engine.

I will continue as soon as the transmission arrives.

 

[Brew]

Looking good, that brings back memories! I'll be going through that gamut soon again on my Ridgeback.... :2thumbs:

 

[Five Five]

Nice work Steve... your maintain your bike well :up: looking real good .... after seeing your ridgeback bars and side profile, I have decided to do the change .... any mods to the clutch cable or brake line ..... and what length will i need to extend it to ?

Bill

 

[Little-Boo]

Looks like you have things under control. :2thumbs:

Carlos

 

[Nukeranger]

:2thumbs: Very nice. Looks like a "How To" with all the great pictures.

 

[Trainguy]

Ya that brings back memories:2thumbs:

 

[Bowhunter]

After doing a "Search" for a "How-To" to give me a visiual of the swap, I did not find one, so I thought I would post up a step by step to possibly give someone a little help on a future install.

Bill, the change of the handlebars has been a great "comfort" add on.

The handlebars you will need are from a '08 Ridgeback(#151-000013-01), I got mine from Donna @ bigdogpartsking.com.
After removing your stock bars, cut the wiring harness and add 4" to the length. I cut mine inside the handlebars so that the splices would be more shielded from the weather. Be sure to slide a shrink wrap over the harness before you start so that you can cover the splices. Another tip is to stagger the cuts by at least 1" so that all your solder joints are not stacked on top of each other.

Call Barnett and order a new clutch cable that is part #102-30-10010+8.5, I had 3 new ones made up for myself and Postman and a spare on the shelf. Cost was $79 for the cable, $8 for rush service, $27 for shipping for each cable. Maybe Curtis @ Wild Steed can help you out there. I felt like I took a little screwing on the shipping.
I posted a thread last year on the handlebar swap that shows what I did. I'll be glad to answer any questions for those that need help.

I also went to a local hydraulic hose company and had new hoses made up that were 4" longer than stock, they made them while I waited and I was out the door.

Forgot to mention that the throttle cables did not need to be replaced, they work fine in factory length.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Looking good Steve :2thumbs:
Thank you again. It was a pleasure doing business with you. Maybe I'll be down that way this year and we can meet up. I have an older brother that lives in Florida and might be riding down to see him this summer.

 

[05 old dog]

steve thats great ...yea im doing the same thing and couldnt find a write up either...only i got a little frogier and tore mine down completely and had frame and swingarm powdercoated picked the new paint up yesterday...i was wondering about that front seal...gonna change that out today...i have rode for 2 years without reversing the front seal with NO problems

 

[05 old dog]

steve...did you have any shims under your tranny? mine didnt have one AND the bolts were loose...when i installed the belt drive 2 years ago the motor plate slid right on and bolted up, andrew can get the shim kit.

 

[Bowhunter]

Billy,

My transmission did have shims under it but it was not sitting flat against the frame. After removing the bolts with a box end wrench form the side, I reached up to the top of the transmission and it was rocking from left to right like it was "High Centering". And as you said, Andrew is sending me some shims so that I can be sure to get it stable before torqueing the bolts down.

Andrew,

I want you to call if you come this way to visit you brother, you can come to my house and shoot some real guns that aren't being controlled by NY rules.

 

[pauldeepsea]

Looks great. Nice post

 

[chacha]

Great job on the pics. Thanks!

 

[Brew]

Yeah I believe the shimming of these trans might be causing some of the seal and bearing wear. Mine was shimmed so whacky, it made no rhime or reason...

 

[bigdogtech01]

Billy,

My transmission did have shims under it but it was not sitting flat against the frame. After removing the bolts with a box end wrench form the side, I reached up to the top of the transmission and it was rocking from left to right like it was "High Centering". And as you said, Andrew is sending me some shims so that I can be sure to get it stable before torqueing the bolts down.

Andrew,

I want you to call if you come this way to visit you brother, you can come to my house and shoot some real guns that aren't being controlled by NY rules.

Thank you Steve, I'll keep that in mind for sure...I'm always up for shooting any and all guns A few years back I had the chance to shoot a friend of mines Custom built .50 BMG rifle..what an awesome gun!!!

 

[Bowhunter]

Andrew got the transmission to me on Monday as promised. I could not start the installation due to the compensator nut not working with the new drive. Ordered new nut and washer and today I got back on the project after picking up the nut yesterday.

Removed the inner primary and set the transmission in the frame and loosely tightened the bolts. With the original shims removed, the transmission sat perfect in the frame.

Replaced the inner primary and did a trial fit to the transmission.

Transmission tightened down and inner primary torqued to spec.

Locktite the transmission input shaft for the clutch.

Clutch pack installed and torqued to spec.

Install of front spool and measure for proper shim to align front and rear spools.

Shims selected and placed on engine crankshaft before spool torqued to 150 ft. lbs. with red locktite.

New nut and washer placed and torqued.

Standoffs loosely placed on outer support.

Temporarily install outer support.

Adjust the standoffs to lightly contact the inner primary and tighten the locknuts.

Install starter pinion cover.

Install new throwout bearing.

Install the snap ring to secure the throwout bearing.

Install the drive belt.

Install the outer bearing support, and the new Baker Belt Drive is complete.

I discovered a problem with my new final drive belt and I can't continue until I get a replacement final drive belt. Update to follow!

 

[Bowhunter]

The new Baker Belt Drive comes with a new ball & ramp to properly disengage the clutch.
The ball and ramp are located under this cover.

After removing the cover the old ball & ramp were removed and laid out for comparison. The old parts are on top and the new parts are at the bottom. Notice the much steeper ramp for the balls, this will separate the clutch discs much faster and further apart.

Pocket cleaned and ready for the new parts.

Bottom half well lubricated and balls placed in the pockets.

Top half lubricated and put in place with the clutch cable engaged.

Final view prior to replacing the cover.

 

[V]

Very good pics and write up:2thumbs:

Do you have any pics of the interior side of the outer support? Also do you still use the stock backing plate for the new clutch basket or did it come as a complete assembly? Was wonder ing how the outer support actually braces the basket and if the backing plate for the basket was still the stock design.

Thanks

 

[rasdes]

Great write up and pics......I'd to see pictures of the drive install process also.. thanks for taking the time, this helps

 

[erldawg]

Great write up. V had some very good questions which I've always wondered about myself.

Also how difficult is it to slide the Baker primary belt on?

Be sure to update with any noticeable differences in riding when your finished. aka vibrations, clutch disengaging, finding neutral etc: