TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
I have an X which is rpm and Y which is throttle position. Where am I on the map if I see 2,000 rpm (X) and my throttle position (Y) is opened 20%? My map now intersects X (2K) and Y (20%) and now this sends the fuel trim of the map cell number, meaning, my duty cycle needs this much fuel at 2,000 rpm to this percentage opening.
If my range (for argument sake) is .04v at closed throttle and 4.0v for WOT, I must watch my volt meter show this [key on, dead engine] I simply turn the TPS in between that slot till it shows said parameters. If I run .7v at closed throttle, 4.3v at WOT, my calculation will be altered, be out of range, send the math calc into a 'backup' system by the math signal. By using this out of range setting of the TPS, the math will calc into a 'safe zone' of LIMP. This will change the performance or driveability to be out of spec, which sends the calculations into a backup formula to save the engine.
For me to have ideal fueling at FULL POWER, I must meet the spec parameters or my bike runs like shit, meaning, I think I have a peppier bike, but really the tune is detuned, the torque changes to a lower setting. Therefore, my sensor has to be within spec between wires, and now my position has to be within said range of 0-to-WOT. If I fall [out of spec], it goes into backup, literally handcuffed by natural design. If it [falls out of position], it reverts to the same flipflop backed up math. It's all about 'input volts' equals 'output demand.'
Complex yet so easy. It is watt it is-best I can describe.
The short:
The black box defaults to said ignition timing, at the same time, it runs the fuel parameters [not on the map] cell it once was. By both being out of spec parts wise, and dial-in wise, one must follow the blueprinted specs, or you'll be in limp mode/backup/fail-safe. It's that simple is the handcuffing of ohm's law and magnetism being the handcuffer.
The tps sensor has slotted mounting so it can be adjusted clock wise or ccw.
Correct. It's possible to wait for the signal a second or two to math out. And too, check when tightened, key off, back on, a couple of rips to the throttle... remains constant is all you are looking for.
I thought once I was able to set the throttle closed voltage correctly the vfi/ecu would just carry on business as usual.
It will. Closed or open, it's the spec and the ecu takes care of the rest.
If the tps in out of calibration why wouldn't that light stay on if it is still powered following run being depressed.
The ecu is in a constant, 'who's sending in the correct spec number?' That's 1000's of times to keep up with rpm, right? So it's a simple magnetic flipflop to turn off the light or turn on the light. Light on says a bad signal entered/short to ground/not plugged in/etc. Light off is A-OK. It's either or by designed handcuffing that occurs is a flip or a flop, an on or an off... it's that simple a move is a processor.
I don't think the ecu monitors the sensors unless the engine is in start or running.
I'm going to use the handcuff to show it. Unplug something and the ecu turns on a light. Plug it back in, I don't care if the key stays on or not, that wire is being pinged 1000's of times is the monitoring. Either way, everything grounds with key off, new slate with key on. Is a senor out of spec? Is a light on? Then it's out of spec/internally burnt/wire not hooked up/etc.; are the basics.
Light comes on during start and if once started sees a problem with out of range voltages. Is literature available that discusses theory or design operation of injected big dog motorcycle?
Thanks again for the input.
Sadly, no. You need to know this shit going in. Before you open a bike manual, you need to know the basics. Only time you need the book is to see the blueprinted numbers to compare how burnt is the sensor in or out of spec?
and 2nd, you don't have EFI, so no worries 
At least I am not affraid to admit that I don't know something "Mr. Smarty Pants!"
Oh, look at me!I am so smart cause I know what TPS means! 
Wanker! Lol!
