ehc lights

Energy One
SES

SES

Member
have 06 mastiff with 18 light ehc. my problem is bike won't start, turn key on all comes on ( I think ) then push run and push start. Then the comp releases click ,and nothing.... here is sequence....turn on key power light comes on also controller light comes on and is flashing. push run and red run light comes on also red light on ignition mod. comes on ... push start ... comp releases click and nothing......shouldn't the starter light come on at some time ...Not sure if I need a new starter.... new ehc ..or I did clean the contacts inside the starter .. when testing small green wire on starter w/key on and run pushed I get very small shifting voltage. I have a scorpio alarm I am going to disconnect because it has the kill wire (by Gas Man ) installed....Don't know if it will make a diff. or not... any thoughts would be deeply appreciated... Thanks Stan
 
BigDogBro1

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
I think the kill relay interrupts the the 12v feed to the coil. Don't think that would cause the starter not to kick in and spin the engine over.

Make sure the battery terminals and wire connectors are very clean. The larger the wire the closer in the stack it should be towards the battery terminal.

Battery needs to be 12.6v to 12.8v minimum to start the bike reliably and should ALWAYS be on a battery tender Jr. when not riding.

Do some searches for the same problem.
 
SES

SES

Member
yes terminals were cleaned and larger ones at bottom of stack batt. is 13.18 volts and is kept on trickle chg. thanks for reply I have a couple errands to run will check back later
 
SES

SES

Member
its not the pcb board I had a spare one and used it with same results. I guess I will start replacing things bike is 8 yrs old and 50,000 miles . Just had heads rebuilt by S&S new valves ,springs and pistons 40,000th removed from deck then ran good but started jumping out of 3rd gear. had trans rebuilt by baker and now this. the old gal is trying me but it will work out eventually thanks again for the help stan..
 
Last edited:
SES

SES

Member
after a lot of testing and thought I think it is the ehc so I will replace the old with ????? I need to do some more research thanks to all who responded Stan
 
KnotSo

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
SES said:
after a lot of testing and thought I think it is the ehc so I will replace the old with ????? I need to do some more research thanks to all who responded Stan
Click to expand...
:hi: Might want to send EHC to Curtis for testing before spending the $$ on new stuff
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=1010



EHC TESTING ALL 04 & UP BIG DOGs INCLUDING EFI & SERIAL CONNECT

Not sure your EHC is operating correctly?
Stop wasting time and money and find out.
Wild Steed Worx will test your EHC for 19 different functions under heated vibratory conditions.
If it fails then we will tell you what failed.
Don't guess....Know....
Certificate of compliance and return shipping included Free of Charge, within the Continental U.S.
How to help your EHC survive​
We have received a number of EHCs from customers for testing and a predominant theme is the damage that is prevalent on the EHCs when we receive them.
If you have not done so we highly recommend you examine your EHC in your Big Dog and make sure you have the following in place:
1) A minimum 1/8" neoprene foam base under the EHC as well as on sides
that may be rubbing or banging against the battery box.
2) Ny-lock nuts instead of a nut and washer
3) CLEAN Di-electric grease filling the connections
Yes the potting does isolate the electronics from some vibration.
However, it will not isolate the EHC from harsh impacts which will occur if your EHC is loose in the battery box and not properly mounted. Harsh impacts will reduce the life of your EHC dramatically so get it secured. You MUST use Ny-lock nuts and NOT a nut and washer setup. The Ny-lock will allow you to put just enough tension on the mounting bolts to pull the EHC snuggly against the neoprene and not come loose. This will also prevent the EHC from being to tight against the battery box which can lead to damage from harsh impacts and excess vibration.
Finally the Di-electric grease. It does not last forever. Clean the connections out every couple of years, at least, and refill them.
Remember to disconnect your positive battery cable before tampering with the EHC connections. Sudden voltage spikes can damage the electronics.
 
SES

SES

Member
Thanks KnotSo I appreciate the info. I didn't know that. guess I should be on here more often. That sounds like a good course to take and if it is bad I could then purchase the ehc-rip kit. I talked to a friend , he said it was probably a starter relay, but I can't find one. I guess it's inside the ehc. Again Thanks For The Info , It's Good To Have Options

Stan
 
SES

SES

Member
quick update I pulled the ehc connectors cleaned and repacked with dielectric grease and now the green starter light works:D but nothing else has changed. :confused: today I think I will pull the tank . that's going to be a pain in the azz I'm slow any more but determined
 
SES

SES

Member
well I found the last gremlin :whoop: it was on the kill switch connection a crimped wire on connector had pulled back probably when I installed the trans so every thing is working:D:D and it only cost me some time :whoop: Thanks to all those who responded and tried to help :cheers:
 
KnotSo

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
SES said:
well I found the last gremlin :whoop: it was on the kill switch connection a crimped wire on connector had pulled back probably when I installed the trans so every thing is working:D:D and it only cost me some time :whoop: Thanks to all those who responded and tried to help :cheers:
Click to expand...
Good to hear...

:chopper::chopper:
 
T

TLM76

Member
Got an 06 k9 and did a rip kit conversation and it was plug n play except for what the jack ass before me had cut up long story short it isn't getting fire. The red light does not come on. Ive replaced the ing module switches on the handle bars, handle bar wiring, stater and anything else that was not working properly.. I can hear a click inside the rip kit brain when I push run and stop so it's getting signal . Does anyone have wiring schematic. I can't seem to find one for my exact bike and maybe and ideas. The blue wires from module I took to the crank sensor so I'm not sure if that's correct but seems to be the only place for them.
 
pauldeepsea

pauldeepsea

Guru
TLM76 said:
Got an 06 k9 and did a rip kit conversation and it was plug n play except for what the jack ass before me had cut up long story short it isn't getting fire. The red light does not come on. Ive replaced the ing module switches on the handle bars, handle bar wiring, stater and anything else that was not working properly.. I can hear a click inside the rip kit brain when I push run and stop so it's getting signal . Does anyone have wiring schematic. I can't seem to find one for my exact bike and maybe and ideas. The blue wires from module I took to the crank sensor so I'm not sure if that's correct but seems to be the only place for them.
Click to expand...
Is your starter engaging ?
 
pauldeepsea

pauldeepsea

Guru
TLM76 said:
Got an 06 k9 and did a rip kit conversation and it was plug n play except for what the jack ass before me had cut up long story short it isn't getting fire. The red light does not come on. Ive replaced the ing module switches on the handle bars, handle bar wiring, stater and anything else that was not working properly.. I can hear a click inside the rip kit brain when I push run and stop so it's getting signal . Does anyone have wiring schematic. I can't seem to find one for my exact bike and maybe and ideas. The blue wires from module I took to the crank sensor so I'm not sure if that's correct but seems to be the only place for them.
Click to expand...
When you say ignition module switches on the handle bars do you mean the pcb boards ?
 
pauldeepsea

pauldeepsea

Guru
C3DC81D6-EB05-48DD-8267-A7D9A97CE8FA.jpeg
TLM76 said:
Got an 06 k9 and did a rip kit conversation and it was plug n play except for what the jack ass before me had cut up long story short it isn't getting fire. The red light does not come on. Ive replaced the ing module switches on the handle bars, handle bar wiring, stater and anything else that was not working properly.. I can hear a click inside the rip kit brain when I push run and stop so it's getting signal . Does anyone have wiring schematic. I can't seem to find one for my exact bike and maybe and ideas. The blue wires from module I took to the crank sensor so I'm not sure if that's correct but seems to be the only place for them.
Click to expand...
If you replaced the pcb boards I would start by pulling the right controls apart to see if the wires are connected to the boards. When I assembled mine the wires came off the connections. I used light heat shrink and carefully not to put to much heat into the boards around the connections.
 
T

TLM76

Member
pauldeepsea said:
When you say ignition module switches on the handle bars do you mean the pcb boards ?
Click to expand...
Yes both sides. Everything on the bars is working as they should . Like I said I can hear a click in the rip brain or whatever u call it when I push run/stop. But I did replace the ign module also...
 
T

TLM76

Member
pauldeepsea said:
View attachment 64232
If you replaced the pcb boards I would start by pulling the right controls apart to see if the wires are connected to the boards. When I assembled mine the wires came off the connections. I used light heat shrink and carefully not to put to much heat into the boards around the connections.
Click to expand...
I know there working cause u can hear the click in the rip kit brain thing..
 
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