Clutch
- Thread starter chop it
- Start date
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Nope, in wet clutch there is some drag from oil between the plates. I suppose the bike doesn’t jump when you go from neutral to first gear...
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francoblay1
The Spaniard
nobbyjohn
Active Member
I have 07K9 can’t seem to get a handle on this clutch adjustment. Every sense I put the heavy duty cable in it has been hard to adjust, it wants to creep forward unless I hold the break on. I have adjusted it according to the book 1/16th play, hard to shift , almost impossible to find neutral. Is it time for a new one?
pknowles
RETIRED
francoblay1
The Spaniard
You´ve been here since 2011... you don´t know how to adjust your clutch yet????????
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/how-to-adjust-your-clutch-05-and-newer.2025/
pknowles
RETIRED
You´ve been here since 2011... you don´t know how to adjust your clutch yet????????
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/how-to-adjust-your-clutch-05-and-newer.2025/
Several good write ups on the subject. Sometimes it can be a pain though
mleach72
Well-Known Member
I used to have a lot of problems getting my clutch adjusted right. I even had the dealer do it and it still wasn't right. I would try everything I was told to do, but it seemed like I had to choose between a clutch that slipped under heavy load or a bike that creeped when stopped. When I installed a big set of apes, it got even worse. The problem was that because the clutch cable is so long, it takes about a half a pull of the lever before the cable becomes "tight" and it actually starts pulling the cable through the sheath. Needless to say, that doesn't leave enough lever to fully disengage the clutch. I finally got pissed off and thought I'll try some unorthodox things to see if it will help. I know the clutch cable is pretty long on K9's, ridgebacks, and choppers, so maybe this will help one of those guys. I know this isn't the normal way to adjust a clutch, but it now works perfectly. No slip, no creep, and pops into neutral really easy. So here is how I do it. First, on the clutch rod, (after loosening the cable all the way) I crank it in until I feel tension, then I go a couple more cranks. This puts pressure on the actuator arm and forces it fully to the "back" position. Then I slowly back it off til I feel the rod come "free". I'll lock it down right there. Next, on my cable, I just keep turning out until the creep is gone. On my bike, this means there is no free play in the lever. With the engine off, pull in the clutch and slowly let it out. At some point, you should see the cable begin to go limp. This means the actuator has reached the fully retracted position. From that point on, it is just tension coming out of the cable. Yes, there may be a very small amount of tension left in the cable, but the clutch spring is more than strong enough to overcome that. I've adjusted my clutch that way for about 10 years, and no problems.
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unorthodox, maybe, but it works for you. just might work for others. who said one size fits all on these bikes, anyway???? thanks for the write-up.
nobbyjohn
Active Member
Clutch cable broke on a ride Sunday. Just got the new one, going to try your way, wish me luck. And thanks for the advice.
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don't forget to lube the inside of the cable sheath. will make life a little easier.
SEAL-rider
Active Member
When my clutch cable broke it revealed more extensive issues. Be careful where you ride until it is sorted out. Mine broke going 80mph uphill in freeway traffic. Not a fun moment.
Gregory Kettner
New Member
07 Chopper I am third owner. Last owner has passed away. I adjusted the clutch per manual took it for a run clutch stopped working entirely. Check the rack and ramp looks good. Open up the primary and inspected the clutch plates and found 12? I was expecting to see 9. After looking at YouTube I’m finding out if somebody put a 12 pack in without replacing a matching rack and ramp this could’ve caused the difficulty of getting in neutral?
How do I identify if the 12 pack is factory or should it be 9? Next question with the 12 pack in there how do I check to see if it’s the correct rack and ramp?
How do I identify if the 12 pack is factory or should it be 9? Next question with the 12 pack in there how do I check to see if it’s the correct rack and ramp?
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Measure the height of the stack. Should be about 1.965 There are many threads on clutch adjustment, do a search. Sounds like either the adjustment rod nut loosened up or the cable slack nut was tightened up againt the wrong side.
Gregory Kettner
New Member
I don’t understand and I’m mechanically inclined. How is it possible to have no clutch at all? Is it possible that all 12 pads worn down enough to have zero clutch? The ball and ramp are working correct. Open up the primary broke down the clutch and I do not see anything out of the ordinary everything looks clean no gouges scratches. Before I open the clutch I measured the distance of the pressure plate movement when squeezing the clutch handle it was 3/16 of an inch. Not knowing what it should be or even if that’s a proper measurement it didn’t seem like it traveled very far. Like I said earlier I adjust the clutch per manual instructions.
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Loosen the cable, and then readjust the clutch. only back it off 1/8 turn, instead of the 1/4 turn that the manual says. Adjust the cable to remove the slack out of it, and try it. Tell us what it is doing then. I have a bike in my shop right now that is being a pain. Sometime clutch adjustments take several treys.
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Clutch adjustment - research and development
I want you all to hold up on your comments on this, until I finish my research. I ran into a perfect opportunity to test some theories on clutch adjustments, on the nine plate easy pull clutch. We all know how hard it is to get it adjusted so that you can find neutral. I have not found it a...
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