107 head

mobsta

Well-Known Member
you can get that from the s/s webb site.there is a pattern along with the torque specs.:cheers:
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
ok here are the torque specs,stage 1 8ft lbs,stage 2 18ft lbs.stage 3 turn 90 degrees more . top view looking down from the drive side.frt cyclinder is frt bolt,then back bolt on drive side,then top rt side bolt then back bolt.rear cyclinder is back bolt ,then frt bolt on drive side,then back bolt then frt bolt on rt side hope this helps.probably better to down load picture from webb site:)
 

Black Ball

Member
head bolts 2 you cant get 2 and the other 2 you have to pull the rocker boxs off 1st. I have to re-do them about every 1000m just wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Never seen this befor and wanted to see if anyone has I know alot of you know way more than I do.
 
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Raywood

The Pirate
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head bolts 2 you cant get 2 and the other 2 you have to pull the rocker boxs off 1st. I have to re-do them about every 1000m just wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Never seen this befor and wanted to see if anyone has I know alot of you know way more than I do.
This is not a normal action. Pull the rockers and heads and clean the studs and bolts. Anti-seize is used on the bolts. I think there is a couple pics in my top end rebuild in the how to section.

Your head bolts not only bolt on the heads but the cylinders also so if you really do have two constantly loose then I would assume you have blown out head gaskets as well as cylinder base gasket leakage. Not to mention movement of both the head and cylinder which is not good for the piston and rings depending on how much they are coming loose.

This is something you don't want to ignore.

:cheers:
 

Black Ball

Member
I was thinking about marking them and then drilling a small hole in them and wire them like we use to on our race car what do you think? yea i have put 3 sets of gaskets in and last time i put copper and shaved the head. Not blowing them now but you can see oil.
 

Raywood

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I was thinking about marking them and then drilling a small hole in them and wire them like we use to on our race car what do you think?
3000 members here and you seem to be the only one in my memory with this issue so I would just pull it apart, clean it and prep it properly and be done with it. :D All the instructions can be down-loaded from the S&S website.

:2thumbs:
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
hey bro,not to rain on your parade but if your head bolts are coming loose i would check those studs,i had a problem with mine and shortly after the head gaskets went.i tore it down and found the studs pulling out of the case.look real close at the base of the studs.:cheers:
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
hey bro,not to rain on your parade but if your head bolts are coming loose i would check those studs,i had a problem with mine and shortly after the head gaskets went.i tore it down and found the studs pulling out of the case.look real close at the base of the studs.:cheers:
You got it, Harley had major issues with this in the mid 90's, someone at the factory decided they did not need to use locktite on the studs when installing them into the case halves. Take the motor apart, and check to make sure they are still tight, put rags down into the case halves so you don't drop anything down into the cases, take two nuts and install them onto the stud. Lock the nuts up on each other, then see if you can tighten the stud. If it moves at all take it out, clean it and RED locktite the hell out of it, put it back in. You might be better off ordering some new ones, take out all the old and replace them.
Also note: S&S and Bigdog recommend you replace your head bolts every time you take your motor apart. I don't think it is necessary every time but probably every other. The threads will stretch and this may be one reason the keep loosening up. I use motor oil on the threads before install.
Tighten in the correct pattern, starting with 8-10 ft lbs. , then 18-20 ft lbs, and your final is 38-40 ft lbs. This is more accurate then the 90 degrees.
 

Raywood

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Also note: S&S and Bigdog recommend you replace your head bolts every time you take your motor apart. I don't think it is necessary every time but probably every other. The threads will stretch and this may be one reason the keep loosening up. I use motor oil on the threads before install.Tighten in the correct pattern, starting with 8-10 ft lbs. , then 18-20 ft lbs, and your final is 38-40 ft lbs. This is more accurate then the 90 degrees.
Opps, my appoligies. The manual does say to use a few drops of motor oil on the studs not anti-seize. Got anti-seize on the brain from the clutch rod thread.

Thanks for straightening me out bigdogtech! :2thumbs:
 

BBChopper

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Troop Supporter
I agree with Ray, that shit aint right. They may have streched and may need to be replaced!
Many engine bulders recomened replacement when re building. I dont know about S&S.
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
if s/s reccomends replacing studs they should have practiced what they preached.they rebuilt my motor and shortley after the studs pulled out.they said it was because the case was polished,then they said they wouldnt cover it and offered me a small discount on new polished case.go figure:lol:
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
if s/s reccomends replacing studs they should have practiced what they preached.they rebuilt my motor and shortley after the studs pulled out.they said it was because the case was polished,then they said they wouldnt cover it and offered me a small discount on new polished case.go figure:lol:
They recommend replacing the Head Bolts, not the studs. It is a good idea to replace the studs if they are in question, or if your motor has been apart 1000 times.
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
ooops my bad just reread.however if those studs are actually pulling up like mine did those threads are toast.i double nuted them and could not move them thinking it was just a blown gasket.put back together and blew again.used heli coils and been ok knock on wood.i know should have used time serts but maybe next time.:lol:
 
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