Anyone know the proper proceedure for replacing an exhaust stud?

txchopperguy

Well-Known Member
I am assuming you "jam" two nuts together and run it back in the head...but I don't know the torque spec or if a thread locker should be used.
I took my pipes off the bike last night and instead of the nut coming off of the stud, one of the studs just came out of the head. As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Todd
 

lee

Well-Known Member
same thing happened to me recently - after using a Harley stud temporarily I did the two nut thing and put it in there snug (no specific torque) with a little blue loctite - Then when I put the pipes back on I tightened the nut to 80 inch pounds - had no problems with it at all since
 

05chop

Well-Known Member
If you can cheap insurance is to replace the stud thats what i do.I don't like busted studs. I Never use thread locker in exhaust always use antisez. 05chop
 
If you can cheap insurance is to replace the stud thats what i do.I don't like busted studs. I Never use thread locker in exhaust always use antisez. 05chop



Yeah Im with Chop:cheers:

If the bike is still newer, you wont need a new stud, but use antisieze & about 35-40 psi. Recheck after a ride or two.:up:
 

LamboV12

Active Member
I went through that A-Lot! You can, if you want, run a nice allen head bolt all the way through instead of using a stud. We did that for a while. Later BDM said put the studs back in and use loctite... I thought loctite would melt and have been told that red (stronger) will melt, but blue (medium) will not melt. Seems to be OK so far...

I forget what the BD Shop Book said for torque, but the S&S manual says 18 ft/lb.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
I think the problem with using bolts is that the threads in the cylinders / heads are soft and you can easily strip them - happy to be corrected on that though
 

txchopperguy

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys...I have a new stud, nut and washer on the way. And as far as loctite, I was only going to put that on the part of the stud that goes in the head, not where the nut goes on...lol. I didn't know how much torque to put on the stud when re-installing it, and I sure didn't want to snap it off in the head.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
thats what I did and do not over tighten it as you could quite easily strip the threads in the head - just nice and snug is what I did although I suspect there is a specific torque setting - its interesting what Lambo said about the S&S manual saying 18 ft lbs as I think the BD manual says something like 80 inch lbs which is nowhere near 18 ft lbs - I guess one is for the stud and the other for the nut?
 

05chop

Well-Known Member
Also why not use brass nuts? Seen them used on metric cars with there exhaust manifolds.easy on easy off.
 

LamboV12

Active Member
Thanks guys...I have a new stud, nut and washer on the way. And as far as loctite, I was only going to put that on the part of the stud that goes in the head, not where the nut goes on...lol. I didn't know how much torque to put on the stud when re-installing it, and I sure didn't want to snap it off in the head.
Correct - only on the ends that go into the head :)
 

txchopperguy

Well-Known Member
I don't worry about stripping the threads in the head, as that part would be a really easy fix. It would be more problematic to snap the stud off, especially flush, while installing it...that could be fixed, but could be a bit messy.

For re-threading made easy see the gardsert installation video here

Gard Specialists Co. - Maintenance Products

I have sold these to every bike shop in my area, and have seen them used even on Evo cylinder studs successfully...they ain't afraid of torque.
 

Vegas

Well-Known Member
Studs are normally supposed to be put in by hand. That way when you torque the nut it applies the force to the threads on the nut side instead of the stud side.
 

txchopperguy

Well-Known Member
Sul you are correct...I could tell this because the nut was still on the stud, and the coarse threads were on the other end...lol
 
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