CRANE HI-4
- Thread starter 05chop
- Start date
I'm not sure yet... I dont have a timing light... my dad does... hmmm
Al...which way did you go?
alhall88
UAW
Both, you have to static time the bike before you can start it, then you can dynamic time with the light. Sul actually wrote up a work instruction on this that was very accurate for his ignition but its the exact same process for the crane. I had a dyno guy dial mine in awhile back.
Originally Posted by sulconst2
i have a dynatek 2ki adjustable ignition in my 05 chop so this wont pertain to all.
(sorry no pics)
remove the spark plugs
remove the timing plug in left side case
remove the outer primary
remove the ignition cover on cam cover
with a 1 1/4 socket rotate the motor sprocket till T:C is in the timing window
it must be on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke. the way to tell is
1) it will be hard to hold the mark in the window
2) use a hose to blow thru the spark plug hole, if its on the exhaust stroke it will blow right thru, on the compression stroke it will be blocked
transfer that T:F mark to the high point of your motor sprocket with a sharpie
then transfer both sides of the timing window inline on the outer primary
rotate the sprocket to the "F" mark (30 degree advance firing front mark) and transfer mark to the sprocket
rotate to "R" mark and transfer mark to sprocket (advance rear firing mark)
reinstall timing plug
on the 2ki have all switches off, except single fire switch, and voes wire grounded to get full advance at 1500 rpm
loosen and turn the ignition plate to the left, light on.
turn to the right till the light goes off, lock it down (static timed)
start the bike and use a digital light clip to the front plug wire. with rpm at 1500 should see the "F" mark (full advance - 35 degrees)
turn off bike and adjust ignition to wanted curve. with my compression and cam i chose max curve #4
start bike and check with light. the "F" was a bit to the left. dial back with the digital light and it went 28 degrees to T:F (dynamic timed)
s&s recommends 30 for stock
the idea behind transfering the marks to the sprocket is so you dont get an oil bath trying to read thru the opened timing window
Makes me wish I bought this for my belt drive
Rivera Primo, Inc. - High-Performance Aftermarket Parts for Harley-Davidsons
page 86 in the catalog.
Originally Posted by sulconst2
i have a dynatek 2ki adjustable ignition in my 05 chop so this wont pertain to all.
(sorry no pics)
remove the spark plugs
remove the timing plug in left side case
remove the outer primary
remove the ignition cover on cam cover
with a 1 1/4 socket rotate the motor sprocket till T:C is in the timing window
it must be on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke. the way to tell is
1) it will be hard to hold the mark in the window
2) use a hose to blow thru the spark plug hole, if its on the exhaust stroke it will blow right thru, on the compression stroke it will be blocked
transfer that T:F mark to the high point of your motor sprocket with a sharpie
then transfer both sides of the timing window inline on the outer primary
rotate the sprocket to the "F" mark (30 degree advance firing front mark) and transfer mark to the sprocket
rotate to "R" mark and transfer mark to sprocket (advance rear firing mark)
reinstall timing plug
on the 2ki have all switches off, except single fire switch, and voes wire grounded to get full advance at 1500 rpm
loosen and turn the ignition plate to the left, light on.
turn to the right till the light goes off, lock it down (static timed)
start the bike and use a digital light clip to the front plug wire. with rpm at 1500 should see the "F" mark (full advance - 35 degrees)
turn off bike and adjust ignition to wanted curve. with my compression and cam i chose max curve #4
start bike and check with light. the "F" was a bit to the left. dial back with the digital light and it went 28 degrees to T:F (dynamic timed)
s&s recommends 30 for stock
the idea behind transfering the marks to the sprocket is so you dont get an oil bath trying to read thru the opened timing window
Makes me wish I bought this for my belt drive
Rivera Primo, Inc. - High-Performance Aftermarket Parts for Harley-Davidsons
page 86 in the catalog.
Last edited:
05chop
Well-Known Member
I Found TDC from the crank plug. Moved over to the point cover hsg centered up the hi4 middle of the slots and used the left hold down post as my TDC REFERENCE POINT. From here center to center hold down posts drilled a small hole 3/16 into to the hi4 plate.I drilled this hole with it off so you don't screw up the sensor cup.Then reinstalled the plate now i can see the sensor cup centered in the hole.Removed the plate again and painted the mark with white paint or vee notch sensor cup . I Installed the plate turned on ignition watched the led lite go on and off finding tdc by rotating it.snugged the hold down plate hook up dial- back lite,ground the VOES wire set advance dip switch to max.Setback timing lite to 30deg Started it up set idle to 2500 rpm with the knob on the handle bars, shined lite into the hole.close enough for me set dip switch to kick start,sparks adv to max,rear Cly to zero, set rev limit still playing with this setting.I think that the kick start setting should help quicker starts than with thunder heart less chance off start up back fire.I removed the ground voes wire and taped it up.Reason for doing this is on the point cover was you can always go back here instead of remarking the flywheel and looking into the view plug hole.Both ways work i guess
05chop
Well-Known Member
Sul If i had more metal in the plate i could of followed the curve of the trigger rotor and put the f-r marks on. Looking at the old spark plug burn line on the ground electrode showed retarded. Curious how the crane will do now that its at 30deg total so i will check plug burn line again. At 6000ft I'm sure i could set at 30-35 but with the no lead gas forget it.Sure miss the leaded gas. I like the way it starts first lite.