Ok. Went for a ride today and had to get on the horn several times. I noticed when I honked the horn that power to the engine was lost until I let the horn switch go. When I got the bike the horn didn’t work at all. Replaced the horn and now it honks. But like I said when I honk it the motor looses spark. Anyone ever have this problem?
Horn Killswitch
- Thread starter waykool
- Start date
C
chaingunner
Guest
I did, I had a short on the horn. Just fixed that and it was fine.
You should prolly just sell the POS........
jk
You should prolly just sell the POS........
jkHahahaha....... Not selling because the horn dont work.I did, I had a short on the horn. Just fixed that and it was fine.
You should prolly just sell the POS........
Where did you find the short if i may ask.
C
chaingunner
Guest
It was on the horn where the "thingy is hooked to the other thingy" ..... It was corroded threw and was shorting out on the side of the bike.... Does the bike still have the same problem after replacing I am assuming? Could be a short else were.
..... It was corroded threw and was shorting out on the side of the bike.... Does the bike still have the same problem after replacing I am assuming? Could be a short else were.TheDeadOne
Banned
Did you replace with another BDM horn, or what?
TheDeadOne
Banned
Have you checked both your EHC plugs for dielectric grease lately?
No. I have not had that connector apart yet. This probably sounds stupid but I just went out to check for visible shorts near the horn connector’s just as Chaingunner suggested. I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. For shitz and giggles I swapped the wire position on the horn and the problem appears to have gone away. Makes no sense to me. Will try to ride it later and see if the problem is gone completely.
Thank you guys for chiming in. :2thumbs:
TheDeadOne
Banned
Kool,
The problem sounds like the horn connections started to oxidize a little bit causing a bad connection. Clean the connector contacts and add dielectric grease to both of these connections to help prevent problems like this in the future! Go ahead and check the plugs while you're at it and do the same thing if necessary! :2thumbs:
Welcome to the world of EHC Weirdness! :lol::lol::lol:
Merry Christmas!
dead
The problem sounds like the horn connections started to oxidize a little bit causing a bad connection. Clean the connector contacts and add dielectric grease to both of these connections to help prevent problems like this in the future! Go ahead and check the plugs while you're at it and do the same thing if necessary! :2thumbs:
Welcome to the world of EHC Weirdness! :lol::lol::lol:
Merry Christmas!
dead
Nope. Just took her for a spin and had the same problem. The motor died out when I honked the horn. Go figure. If I disconnect the two leads on the horn and push the horn button the motor stays running. If I hook the horn back up and press the horn button the motor dies. Guess that’s what I get for trying to use a Dae Woo horn. Is there something in the BDM horn that other horns don’t have?
You might wanna check the switch inside the bars. Could be grounding out there.
:2thumbs:
TheDeadOne
Banned
kool,
If the horn is rated with the same amount of current load as a BDM horn, that's NOT the problem.
You can check the horn to see if it's requiring more current for some reason.
I doubt it's the switch if it doen't happen when the horn is unplugged. Plus the switch contacts are all low voltage ground anyway.
Check both of the EHC connectors. :2thumbs:
If the horn is rated with the same amount of current load as a BDM horn, that's NOT the problem.
You can check the horn to see if it's requiring more current for some reason.
I doubt it's the switch if it doen't happen when the horn is unplugged. Plus the switch contacts are all low voltage ground anyway.
Check both of the EHC connectors. :2thumbs:
Oppps, didn't read that part about unhooking the horn and testing the switch!kool,
I doubt it's the switch if it doen't happen when the horn is unplugged. Plus the switch contacts are all low voltage ground anyway.
Check both of the EHC connectors. :2thumbs:
TheDeadOne
Banned
Ray is just a GOOD MAN isn't he! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:
I'm not sure about the '03s so much, but I know that the later years of the EHCs are known to fail the same way "if" the headlight plug is corroded or melted or another high current load of that nature is bad. It's not that the two circuits are so much connected, but more like it suggest that the added current draw of the horn is tripping the main internal breaker of the EHC.
Check EHC connectors 1st!!! (mandatory)
Headlight - 5.5A (constant)
Starter Trigger - 10A (but this is not constant)
The next highest current load is the horn, and I'm not sure what it's rated to draw.
Then comes the ignition power connections I think
But Dielectric Grease works well on "every" electrical connection!
I'm not sure about the '03s so much, but I know that the later years of the EHCs are known to fail the same way "if" the headlight plug is corroded or melted or another high current load of that nature is bad. It's not that the two circuits are so much connected, but more like it suggest that the added current draw of the horn is tripping the main internal breaker of the EHC.
Check EHC connectors 1st!!! (mandatory)
Headlight - 5.5A (constant)
Starter Trigger - 10A (but this is not constant)
The next highest current load is the horn, and I'm not sure what it's rated to draw.
Then comes the ignition power connections I think
But Dielectric Grease works well on "every" electrical connection!
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TheDeadOne
Banned
Do you have a meter to measure the current load it's pulling?
TheDeadOne
Banned
I'm thinking that might be high. But I can't find the stock ones rating, waiting for Steve to see if he's got the rating.