LSD Trans Rebuild Cost

[alhall88]

What are you paying for a trans rebuild assuming only bearings need replaced?
I been noticing some increased vibration lately and then all of a sudden yesterday while sitting at a light some awful noises start coming from the primary area (open belt drive). So I'm hoping for a loose clutch basket nut and start pulling it apart. Clutch basket does have wear but its been flawless for the last 4 years so not being satisfied that that would cause all that noise I pulled the trans and couldn't really find anything without pulling it apart. Thinking I'll drop it off at a local shop to see what they think.

So does this look like its wore out to you guys? It hasn't been slipping and it's shifting fine.

And finally this pisses me off, I pull the clutch cable and when I go to remove the snap ring the casting breaks off and then I notice its a roadmax cover. This thing is like a dogs breakfest, jims case baker gearset and roadmax actuator cover.

 

[Staffy]

The wear on the clutch basket I feel is acceptable. If there was clutch creep I would be concerned - since that was not the case I would say you could safely overlook that.

Regarding the noise - a little late now, but do you remember if the noise went away when you pulled in your clutch?

Which open primary do you have?

Regarding rebuilding the tranny - I did see a post on here quite recently that showed the main shaft bearing completely worn down - if you have anything similar that could explain the noise. (Do a search and PM the indvidual, he should have a good idea on cost)

My two cents...

 

[Staffy]

Found it....

Here you go Al...this may help. It was Shane (Chaingunner) who had his main shaft bearing take a dump....he should have an idea on cost....
Good luck.

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/21119-mainshaft-bearing-failure.html

 

[alhall88]

Thanks staffy, I seen shanes thread but nothing that noticeable yet on mine. On mine the noise was constant ,pulling in the clutch did not change. Only when I revved the motor slightly could I get the noise to go away, which leads me to a bearing possibly. Running primo brute IV.

 

[chaingunner]

Al, I had about 130 into mine, parts were labor was 80 of that. I thought that was very reasonable. I'd done it myself if it would have been winter.... good luck!

 

[Five Five]

AL.....I think it's about $345 for a complete bearing kit from Baker.....if your going to bench it might as well do all bearings (my 2¢) its pretty straight forward working on em especially with that trap door design the whole gear set pulls out as one unit....your probably looking at $500 to have someone do it for you.....send me a PM with your address I have a "how to" CD I can burn you a copy and send it to you.

You can contact "McGroom" on the website he's a Baker distributor...

"55"

 

[alhall88]

Well I dropped the trans off (John at Beezers) but he felt there was nothing wrong which I didn't either. I did notice when I got home that the front pulley insert was a little chewed up so I decided I would pull the rotor and check the front seal and thats when I think I found the issue. All the teeth are missing on the rotor and the spacers are all chewed up. The main crank bearing looks OK with nice even gaps but it has me concerned why all the damage.I called John and told him not to get into the trans. I'm going to replaced the damaged rotor,shims, and replace the front pulley insert and see what happens. Beezer always told me I kept the primary belt a little too tight and I wonder if this contributed to the damage. Looks like I pulled the trans out for nothing but now I can move it a little forward and increase some slack in the belt.

 

[Five Five]

"Al" can you post a picture of the damage your referring too.....I would like to gain a little knowledge on that issue...

Thanks
"55"

 

[RubWhore]

I wood call Baker as they will sell you all the parts and rebuild the trany for 100 bucks labor beins you already got it out

 

[alhall88]

I'll post some pics later tonight, I'll pull the trans back out this winter and rebuild it myself while I have plenty of time. Don't want to loose any more riding time than I have to.

 

[Staffy]

Very interesting....can't wait to see the pic's. Are the spacers part of the open primary?

Cannot seem to remember - there is NO spacer between rotor and crank, correct?

A couple of thoughts were racing through my mind....(before your last post)

Could it be your clutch basket bearing (wouldn't hurt to check/replace it during the winter rebuild)

Try roatiting the crank by hand (remove the spark plugs so you have no compression) put back the crank nut and use a socket wrench if necessary - any unusual sounds?

One last thing I would inspect - the rotor, from what I understand its done as the teeth are chewed up. Do you see a "warp" or any unevenness either at the core (where it meets the shaft) or at the edge? Since you mentioned spacers could it be possible that the spacers were off and tightening them caused the rotor to warp eventually resulting in this? (Sorry, just me overthinking...)

 

[kiwi]

TRK-FLSTX BAKER Drivetrain Trans. Rebuild Kit 1 1 $175.00 $175.00

2 SH SHIPPING/HANDLING 1 1 $115.99 $115.99
that was to australia
for a 2003 mastiff
talked with james for baker and he was very helpfull

 

[alhall88]

OK so here's the issue as this is nothing new to some. Some bikes will use some spacing others may not.When I converted from a wet system to a open primary I kept the 2 spacers that were used. There was one spacer behind the rotor and one thinner spacer in front. I checked pulley alignment and everything was good so I kept the spacers where they were. What I should have done was to place both shims behind the rotor maybe so that the front pulley insert was in full contact of the rotor but thats hindsight. What happened was first the hardened spacer in front of the rotor started working into the softer material of the pulley insert. So even though the nut was always tight as soon as a couple thousandths of wear occurred that created enough gap to start everything else moving back and forth. In this pic you see that half the rotor teeth are gone and the half that are left are about half the original thickness. The spacer on the right is the one that is behind the crank seal. The grooved area you see is the section that was against the bearing race. And the shim on the left is the one that was behind the rotor and was in contact with the hardened spacer that is behind the crank seal. If you look at the amount of wear between the two its about .020, so thats plenty enough to get things to start moving. Hope this makes sense to you guys.

 

[Five Five]

OK so here's the issue as this is nothing new to some. Some bikes will use some spacing others may not.When I converted from a wet system to a open primary I kept the 2 spacers that were used. There was one spacer behind the rotor and one thinner spacer in front. I checked pulley alignment and everything was good so I kept the spacers where they were. What I should have done was to place both shims behind the rotor maybe so that the front pulley insert was in full contact of the rotor but thats hindsight. What happened was first the hardened spacer in front of the rotor started working into the softer material of the pulley insert. So even though the nut was always tight as soon as a couple thousandths of wear occurred that created enough gap to start everything else moving back and forth. In this pic you see that half the rotor teeth are gone and the half that are left are about half the original thickness. The spacer on the right is the one that is behind the crank seal. The grooved area you see is the section that was against the bearing race. And the shim on the left is the one that was behind the rotor and was in contact with the hardened spacer that is behind the crank seal. If you look at the amount of wear between the two its about .020, so thats plenty enough to get things to start moving. Hope this makes sense to you guys.

Thanks AL....i'm tearing mine down to take a look....I have a noise down there that just started about 100 miles ago...tore it down last Friday put in another drivetrain (wet) chain, comp sproket, clutch assy...etc.....put it back together and still got the noise....its got to be the stator assy....thanks for the pics & post :up:

"55"

 

[Gas Man]

Hey that clutch basket looks very familiar... just ask Chacha...

 

[alhall88]

My clutch basket doesn't look that bad and really I think its in good shape considering its been on there for 4 years now.

 

[alhall88]

Well put on a new stator,new front offset pulley insert,replaced front seal and insert and rides like a dream. Got to give a huge prop up to John at Beezers Custom Cycle for getting all my parts super fast and putting my ass back on the road in just 4 days.

 

[chacha]

Glad you're back on the road Al!

-- thanks for the pictures. I'm starting to suspect I have the wrong offset on my front pully....

 

[Mickeetwo]

Glad your back up Al :2thumbs: