Pushrod Adjustment Video

Energy One

Sven

Well-Known Member

What they don't mention is a standard NASCAR valve setting procedure:
Memorize the letters EOIC so the confusion is removed.
EO = Exhaust Opens. Find where the exhaust begins to open then stop. Adjust the intake next to that exhaust.
IC = Intake Closes. As so as you see the intake begin to close you stop. Adjust the exhaust for that cylinder only.

Bungee cord the brake so the wheel does not turn; as the other cylinder's valve springs push the wheel backwards.

Washer trick... The faster the event, the gain in HP.

Signed,
Another Pauly Prose
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Gentlemen,

I am still not happy with my valve train noise on the 117, it's much louder than the 107. I tried 18 flats 3 turns. The rear cylinder is louder than the front, not sure it quieted them up at all really.

What's everyone else using? Should I try 3.5 then 4? Would 4 turns or 24 flats be Max?

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francoblay1

The Spaniard
Gentlemen,

I am still not happy with my valve train noise on the 117, it's much louder than the 107. I tried 18 flats 3 turns. The rear cylinder is louder than the front, not sure it quieted them up at all really.

What's everyone else using? Should I try 3.5 then 4? Would 4 turns or 24 flats be Max?

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I (Andrew) did use 4 turns (24 flats) when he came over to do the TP to S&S conversion. I also recall reading somewhere about 24 flats.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I (Andrew) did use 4 turns (24 flats) when he came over to do the TP to S&S conversion. I also recall reading somewhere about 24 flats.
Well 24 flats is per S&S everyone else likes 18 it seems.

BDM manual says 4 turns. I guess this lengthens the pushrod? Thus activating more of the hydraulic lifter and quieting the top end? Marv posted earlier the math arguing the 3.2 turns or 20 flats, can't argue with math which is dead middle of the lifter spring. I guess trying at 3.5 turns couldn't hurt.

I could be thinking of this back asswards so hopefully someone can straighten out my thinking hah

Again this is the rear cylinder only, front is much quieter.



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Last edited:

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I think this question was already asked, but just to clarify... does the 107 also come stock with adjustable pushrods? Thanks!
Yes all pushrods are adjustable.

Difference is regular pushrods which require you to pull the rockers off or quickie pushrods which allow you to install them without removing the top rockers.

A stock engine will almost always have the normal pushrods..quickies are aftermarket

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Ridgebackblues

New Member
Thanks for the info... I wasn't sure because I had read some posts saying HD stock pushrods are non-adjustable. I'm a V8 guy so the only adjustable pushrod I've used is for "mock up" to identify the correct pushrod length in custom builds.

Thinking my bike could use an adjustment. Just turned 15k miles, and notice some ticking during acceleration.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for the info... I wasn't sure because I had read some posts saying HD stock pushrods are non-adjustable. I'm a V8 guy so the only adjustable pushrod I've used is for "mock up" to identify the correct pushrod length in custom builds.

Thinking my bike could use an adjustment. Just turned 15k miles, and notice some ticking during acceleration.
Harley may have some none adjustable push rods on some stock builds I'm not 100% sure. but any S&S engine will be adjustable.

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