Stop start switch

Energy One

Bigtrks

Member
I got my new board and switches in the mail today and I put them on well almost they come with a little wire one and plugs into the board the other end steps back in to the mount I can’t get the old one out of the mount. any ideas but I guess my biggest question is what the hell is it? Eventually, I’ll get the old one out if I have to wait till the Fourth of July and get an M 80 to put in there.
 

Bigtrks

Member
I believe you will need a #50 allen wrench to loosen the tiny azz set screw that is holding in the brake magnet? Someone will correct me if I am mistaken.
I didn’t see a set screw maybe I didn’t take it apart far enough I put a wrap of tape around it, so the front half didn’t fall off and just took off the back side with the buttons
 

Bigtrks

Member
I didn’t see a set screw maybe I didn’t take it apart far enough I put a wrap of tape around it, so the front half didn’t fall off and just took off the back side with the buttons
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I didn't find the set screw until the 3rd time I had mine apart.
I only took out the two screws so let’s switch side would fall off do I need to pull the front half away from the bars to see this screw??
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
I only took out the two screws so let’s switch side would fall off do I need to pull the front half away from the bars to see this screw??
That wire goes to the brake sensor. The magnet is in the brake lever. The set screw is located just below the sensor. When you put the new sensor in, turn the key on, then pull the brake lever until you feel pressure. Slide the sensor in until the brake lights come on. Then tighten the set screw.
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Bigtrks

Member
That wire goes to the brake sensor. The magnet is in the brake lever. The set screw is located just below the sensor. When you put the new sensor in, turn the key on, then pull the brake lever until you feel pressure. Slide the sensor in until the brake lights come on. Then tighten the set screw.
View attachment 115099
Do the old sensors have issues ? Or is just a good idea to change it ??I will either way just trying to soak up bd hiccups lol
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Your new brd will have a connector to attach the brake sensor. They have moved away from the soldered connection so if you install the new switch you really have no choice but to change it. Keep the brd you are taking out if the new one does not fix your issue. You never know, it could come in handy in the future.
 

Bigtrks

Member
Your new brd will have a connector to attach the brake sensor. They have moved away from the soldered connection so if you install the new switch you really have no choice but to change it. Keep the brd you are taking out if the new one does not fix your issue. You never know, it could come in handy in the future.
I will put them both out switch actually have anything to do with it when it doesn’t start? That would seem weird to me
 

Bigtrks

Member
I will put them both out switch actually have anything to do with it when it doesn’t start? That would seem weird to me
OK I had the day off so I put the new brakes with Jenn
I will put them both out switch actually have anything to do with it when it doesn’t start? That would seem weird to me
OK I had the day off I put the new BRD and the brake thing in. And it didn’t stop the clicking instead of starting when I push the button it work sometimes, so what direction do I go now? Started with the slam switch every time lol.
 

Bigtrks

Member
OK I had the day off so I put the new brakes with Jenn

OK I had the day off I put the new BRD and the brake thing in. And it didn’t stop the clicking instead of starting when I push the button it work sometimes, so what direction do I go now? Started with the slam switch every time lol.
I think someone has tried this fixed before because that brake wire wasn’t solder to the ARB. It was a fitting.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
I think someone has tried this fixed before because that brake wire wasn’t solder to the ARB. It was a fitting.
If I'm not mistaken, you have started different threads for the same issue (intermittent start from the control switch). I can't sort that out but give this a try with the bike in neutral. First , pull the green wire off the starter solenoid. Second , put a meter to ground on the connector. Third, turn the key on and hit run then start. You should get 12vdc on the green wire along with hearing the click from the Compression Releases. Repeat a bunch of times because you have an intermittent problem. When it fails I suspect you will hear the click from the CR's but not get the 12 vdc on the wire. If you do it 10 times and always get the 12vdc and the click, your issue is most likely with the Solenoid.
If you get the intermittent failure (no 12vdc ) your issue is with the EHC and not the Solenoid. If this is the case pull the connectors off the EHC looking for a loose or backed out wire then replace the Dielectric grease and put it all back together.
Come back with your findings and avoid starting new threads because it makes it difficult to help you.
 

Bigtrks

Member
If I'm not mistaken, you have started different threads for the same issue (intermittent start from the control switch). I can't sort that out but give this a try with the bike in neutral. First , pull the green wire off the starter solenoid. Second , put a meter to ground on the connector. Third, turn the key on and hit run then start. You should get 12vdc on the green wire along with hearing the click from the Compression Releases. Repeat a bunch of times because you have an intermittent problem. When it fails I suspect you will hear the click from the CR's but not get the 12 vdc on the wire. If you do it 10 times and always get the 12vdc and the click, your issue is most likely with the Solenoid.
If you get the intermittent failure (no 12vdc ) your issue is with the EHC and not the Solenoid. If this is the case pull the connectors off the EHC looking for a loose or backed out wire then replace the Dielectric grease and put it all back together.
Come back with your findings and avoid starting new threads because it makes it difficult to help you.
Thank you I know my post sucks. Please bear with me.
 

Bigtrks

Member
If I'm not mistaken, you have started different threads for the same issue (intermittent start from the control switch). I can't sort that out but give this a try with the bike in neutral. First , pull the green wire off the starter solenoid. Second , put a meter to ground on the connector. Third, turn the key on and hit run then start. You should get 12vdc on the green wire along with hearing the click from the Compression Releases. Repeat a bunch of times because you have an intermittent problem. When it fails I suspect you will hear the click from the CR's but not get the 12 vdc on the wire. If you do it 10 times and always get the 12vdc and the click, your issue is most likely with the Solenoid.
If you get the intermittent failure (no 12vdc ) your issue is with the EHC and not the Solenoid. If this is the case pull the connectors off the EHC looking for a loose or backed out wire then replace the Dielectric grease and put it all back together.
Come back with your findings and avoid starting new threads because it makes it difficult to help you.
If it ends up being the solenoid can you change or rebuild it on the bike without removing starter ???
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
If it ends up being the solenoid can you change or rebuild it on the bike without removing starter ???
You can read a bunch of stuff about your bike with this manual. In the meantime troubleshoot your problem so you can concentrate on fixing it or just living with it.
 
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