Weird spark problem...

[fantomaz]

Hi Guys!

I have a 2004 Bulldog.

I just finished my wire plus conversion and even if it was'nt entirely painless, everything is now working as it should except for a tiny problem, I hav eno spark at the plugs...

There is power at the coil, and the red light on the thunder heart module blinks when the starter cranks...

I checked both plugs cause i thought it could be a bad plug wire but nada, no spark at all...

Could it be the coil (I have a dyna coil btw)?

I did have a short at one point of the install with the red terminal of the coil touching the mass and blowing the fuse, could that have damaged the coil?

Thanks in advance...

 

[DRBarnhart]

You most likely didn't damage the coil but you could check resistance real quick to see. You should have a little more than 3 ohms across the primary leads and somewhere between 13.5K and 18K ohms across the secondaries. The exact readings would depend on what coil you have...

Dennis

PS Disconnect all the wires from the coil before you do this.

 

[fantomaz]

Thanks!

I will check resistance tomorrow... but if the coil is ok then how come I don't have a spark then?

 

[alhall88]

Might be just you. First of all when you turn the key on hit the start button directly and bypass run button like you used to use with the old ehc because that will shut the power off to the coil. This button acts differently with the new setup. If you turn the key on and hit the run button once it will shut the coil off but if you hit it again you can start it. Basically the run button should be treated as a off button kinda.

 

[DRBarnhart]

See if this thread helps you at all...

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/technical/11504-no-spark.html

Unfortunately the troubleshooting for the cam sensor wasn't done IN rolleyes: ) that thread but if your coil checks good I'll see what I can whip up for you!

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

Might be just you. First of all when you turn the key on hit the start button directly and bypass run button like you used to use with the old ehc because that will shut the power off to the coil. This button acts differently with the new setup. If you turn the key on and hit the run button once it will shut the coil off but if you hit it again you can start it. Basically the run button should be treated as a off button kinda.

Might just have something here Al!

Dennis

 

[fantomaz]

Thanks Al, I did notice that the run button was acting differently with the wire plus system... that's not the problem...

Also, I'm pretty sure the cam sensor is ok, cause the led on the thunderheart module blinks at engine speed while the starter cranks...

 

[fantomaz]

The post on "how to use a multimeter" has disappeard, not sure what setting on the multimeter and which posts on the multimeter to use with the probes...

I really don't know anything about electronics...

 

[DRBarnhart]

This may be what you're looking for...

use a multimeter - How To Videos | Wonder How To

Dennis

 

[fantomaz]

Ok, I measured the coil and I have 4 ohms across the primary and 12,5K Ohms across the secondary... So I imagine it i snot the coil...

 

[Big B]

Are the plugs new? I was not getting a spark and thought everyone was crazy when they said bad plugs. I replaced mine for $1.99 a piece and it fired right up.

 

[bdmridgeback]

After everything we have tested I am starting to think that when the EHC went out, the Ignition module went along with it. Not saying for sure, but the 3rd EHC that was put in my bike, the Ignition module went out with it.

Just a thought.

 

[fantomaz]

Any way to test the ignition module?

 

[bdmridgeback]

OK, here is the testing procedure for the stock ignition module:

If the red wire at the ignition module is powered (12 volts) but the spark plugs are not firing, then check to see that the red LED on the ignition module is blinking while cranking the bike over. If it does NOT blink then check the crankshaft sensor and connectors from the module to the sensor. If it does blink check to see if the Yellow (front cylinder) and Blue (rear cylinder) LED's on the ignition module are blinking. If they are NOT, then suspect that the ignition module is bad. But if they are blinking check the connections from the module to the coil. Also check to see if there is 12 volts to the red wire on the coil. If the module has 12 volts on its input wire from the EHC but the coil does not have 12 volts on it from the ignition module then suspect that the ignition module is bad.

In your case of running the Wire-Plus Module, the feed for the ignition module and the coil are separated but hooked into the same pin (6 pin plug position #5).

I know we figured out that your red wire was blinking while cranking, but you never said anything about the yellow and blue LED's.

 

[fantomaz]

A bit confused...

To start with, I have a dual fire ignition, there is only one led on the module, it is red, and it blinks while cranking.

Also I have a cam sensor, and if the red led on the module blinks it probably means that it is ok, right?

Also, I have a dual fire dyna coil, only two wires going in there, one red and a yellow...

Since we already checked that there is power on the red wire of the coil, and we also checked the coil resistance that only leaves us with the yellow wire that's supposed to be grounded intermittantly to cause a spark right?

 

[fantomaz]

I checked the yellow wire on the coil there is +12 on it and when I short it there is a spark... that eliminates definitely the coil...

Now how do I check the ignition module?

 

[fantomaz]

Got the bike running, thank you all for your help!

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

What was your find?

 

[Roaddawg]

Hey, can't leave us hanging.....and the problemo was????

 

[hoat]

Got the bike running, thank you all for your help!

wtf :flag: