Energy One Clutch Pack oil recommendation

[Matt Wech]

Oh shit, late to the party. The instructions about 'use the same oil you soaked the pads with.' So with a mix of ATF and a mix of I don't give a shit about the weight, stir, not shaken, ass me to pour the rest of the 50/50 mix and close the cover. Still bulk crude oil distilled If say, mix me an ATF/syn, sure. But don't try to light the rear tire, or float the valves till a few hundred mile sheer away the additives is all. Ass me how I know.

Second shit I missed, and maybe you know about steel plate direction [memory] on assembly? Steel plates are stamped out, show a sharp side and a round side to it. All steel cut sides face the pressure plate. Say for design example, Honda CBX has the pressure plate as the first part into the clutch outer. Then cut side of the steels face inward, or remember, 'cuts face the pressure plate.'

That’s interesting, I’ve watched a few videos where they say the sharp side faces the tranny, which is how I installed these buggers. Lol. This bike also had a 9 plate setup when I opened her up and the sharp edges were indeed facing the tranny. I guess I’ll find out when I get her back on the road. Easy enough to flip those plates if I feel the clutch isn’t operating properly. Thanks for sharing !

 

[Matt Wech]

For shits and giggles, I reached out to Energy 1 to get their opinion on the plate orientation. I’ll be sure to share what they say is the proper way. To be honest, im not so sure it matters considering the friction plates will have a rounded plate on one side and a cut edge in the other side.
We’ll see what they have to say.

 

[Matt Wech]

Found this on the forum as well pertaining to steel plate orientation.

 

[knothead]

If you installed the clutch plates with the sharp edge toward the transmission then that is correct.. if you think about it you dont want the sharp edge turned out toward the pressure plate because the sharp edge could possible drag on the basket and not let the clutch separate when you pull in the clutch lever.. I'm not saying they will bite but it is possible if there is a burr on the hub or basket and could cause them not to seperate properly

 

[Mickmorris]

That’s interesting, I’ve watched a few videos where they say the sharp side faces the tranny, which is how I installed these buggers. Lol. This bike also had a 9 plate setup when I opened her up and the sharp edges were indeed facing the tranny. I guess I’ll find out when I get her back on the road. Easy enough to flip those plates if I feel the clutch isn’t operating properly. Thanks for sharing !

If you put them in as explained above they are correct. Doesn’t matter which way with the fibers are installed.

 

[Sven]

Real world use, meaning, drag racer's story. A member swapped out a new set of clutches, set the cut side into the engine, not facing the pressure plate. Went out and had a better time slip I associate that to a fresh clutch pack. Another racer installed the steels to the inside. Still no problem of either bike during the race season.

Early model HD steels had a riveted cage with a ball bearing at the touch points to the clutch outer basket. There was a stamping on the steels that read "OUT." What I've noticed was the cut direction. It pointed to the pressure plate.

Next is memory direction with all this. So the exercise to see memory in action is: place palms together and press finger to each other. They act as cut sides facing each other, now fighting memory. Place hand over the top of the other hand. Press fingers. Notice how both cut sides move in the same direction as they follow each other at the finger bends.

Quit the bike scene and worked at a car dealership. They threw me in 'heavy line,' which is trans/rear end/engine rebuild. Parts guy had an old chevy 3sp automatic trans. Totally rebuilt it with the same friction and steels facing the pressure plates. Parts guy says he has no 3rd. I drive, slowly feel such a smooth shift transition to the next gear. Floored it, shifted to 2nd and showed the owner he just couldn't feel it.

So basically it's the pack's friction and steels all in the same direction. Facing in or out doesn't seem to matter. So this showed me the factory took the time to set the steels all in the same direction, cough, 'towards the pressure plates.'

 

[knothead]

Look it really doesn't matter which way the steels go, sharp side in or out....either way you turn them just do them all the same is a good rule of thumb.... I personally put the sharp side toward the transmission...that is my way I do things not saying this is right or wrong, just the way I do them.

As i was saying I have seen issues with the sharp side pointed out to the pressure plate because of a worn hub and the sharp edge not letting the disc seperate as they should when you try to disengage the clutch....if your hub and basket are good shape then the orientation doesn't really matter but I have seen the clutch work better with the sharp side pointed to the transmission when it comes to clutch disengaging

 

[Sven]

... clutch work better with the sharp side pointed to the transmission when it comes to clutch disengaging

I can see that. Looks like less surface contact. Pull the lever in, this pushes the PP out. So on collapse [lever leaving from grip], it's a domino effect starting at the PP, ending at the engine side locking the pack finally. So collapse if cuts facing PP, this is more surface onto the first domino, not the round side missing some meat x's diameter no touched x's every friction plate = Less bite easier disengage. That's my thinking why the direction the factory takes.

Plate tang stuck in a groove is a tang so stuck, so beat up, it lost any cut bite no matter direction flipped. More like mirrored each other by the sliding ( X ) direction back and forth, and the banging direction ( Y ) back and forth eventually hammered into ( Z ).

And it always winds down to, ' it's your bike, your call.'

Signed,
NOLTT

 

[Matt Wech]

Im in a similar slippage situation. My clutch pack was last done May 2015. Please tell me about how the 9-plate has treated so far (easier pull, find neutral easier, so on), and what made you to decide to stay with a 9-plate?

Hey Cool Breezin, clutch pack and pressure plate did the trick. No skipping and gears shift perfectly. Neutral is a breeze to find

 

[Matt Wech]

Thank you to all. Appreciate everyone’s help. Long story short, the friction plates were not the cause of the clutch slipping. It was the pressure plate.
we’re back on the road and running strong