Russ says:
EFI with new RIP Install runs perfect until you ride it for about 45 minutes then it starts to spit and sputter and progressively gets worse.
The 45 minute's widow is peak thermodynamics and signs off. More sounds like heat related.
...Pro Tuner program it shows a code that as soon as you reset it she runs great
Name the specific code and who/watt is the sensor?
... will still do the same thing after another 45-minute ride.
So is goes something like this:
1. connector not connected.
2. wire out of connector,
3. short.
4. open.
5. sensor.
So (1 is so obvious it's not it. (2 could be ever so connected so as to chemically grow this white power between connectors. (3 would blow fuses. (4 would be something like vibrating a single wire to stress crack and show an open at the wire strands and not necessarily crack open the plastic sheath around it. (5 would be a sensor out of signal range, an ohm reading breaking out of said spec.
S&S said it sounds like it might be sucking air but they checked that and its not that
Did you mention after the cleaning of said code, the bike runs tits? An air leak does not seal up clearing a code.
... she runs perfect for that 45 minutes to an hour each time.
Say we could pull each sensor off for new and it wont pinpoint who in the loop is it? You'd have to commit number 1 for it to set a code. Make sense?
Already, replaced the two exhaust sensors, and throttle position sensor which the computer showed were bad when I initially dropped it off. No other errors showing up on the computer.
Kind of see it's not plugs, their wires, gas caps, fuel pumps, or sensors that do not return to itself but said wires into and out of said codes? Kind of seeing it's now making sense is a code clears from the major players, like 02's and TPS telemetry?
My take on it is age and it's chemical reaction to the big E or magnetism: where you cannot separate heat from its chemical reaction. All works well for 45 to an hour's ride? Then this chemical reaction between wires seems like the cause. More like a dunk of wires into a solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, rinse and reconnect. That or spray WD40 at it, shake the wires while spraying.
But to narrow it down, I'd run the connects from the TPS and look at those. With the 02 it runs closed loop. With a disconnect, it runs open loop, ignores any kind of fueling problem, but runs a lookup map as a 'backup' a 'fail-safe.'
The TPS is to run it with a disconnect and see if this sets the shitty running. Reconnect and see it cleared up on the reconnect. This might narrow it down to wire integrity from sensor all the way back to the RIP.
This wire run shows good, I'd question the new unit you installed.
