Fork Stops

[Staffy]

A little advise - PLEASE.
Am in the process of installing an American Suspension Springer front end. Below is a pic of the LOWER tree (sorry not the best). It appears that there are "built in / hidden" fork stops and the lower race beating will mount DIRECTLY onto the lower tree - NOT having to bolt on the stock or equelvilliant fork stops. (The bearing will sit on the core – typically where the 4 screws would mount the stock fork stops). Does that appear acceptable or do the stock fork stops need to be bolted on?
I know there are a ton of you who have addressed this – a little advised PLEASE – Thanks. In Al’s “How To…” he has installed the stock fork stop but may be cause that was a “batwing” tree, mine is the Decapitator and the STOP PINS/BOLTS are aligned perfectly as per stock.
(Just as an FYI this is going onto a Mastiff and the geometry changes dramatically – approximately from a 3” off set to a 2” and NO tree rake)

 

[Moespeeds]

Staffy now that I'm looking at your pic, you shouldn't just bolt that up, you need a spacer plate with the guides cut into them. If you bolt it together like that, over time the steering stop on the neck cup will damage the tree and may cause binding. CCI sells them but here is one on egay. $50 aint bad:

INTERNAL FORK STOP PLATE PARTS FOR HARLEY TRIPLE TREE:eBay Motors (item 290349600300 end time Oct-13-09 11:15:33 PDT)

And a pic, you need that plate, the 4 bolt holes are a standard setup. It will act as the lower seal as we discussed today.

 

[Moespeeds]

And BTW make sure you use a ton of red locktite on those 4 screws that hold it in. When I took mine apart last week they were loose.

 

[alhall88]

Staffy just bolt your stock stop plate over the top of that tree to maintain the identical turning radius and bearing fitment. Make sure to double check your tank clearance on the trees as well. I had to use 2 additional set screws inside the stock stop plate to reduce the turning radius to keep the top tree from hitting the tank.

 

[Gas Man]

Not sure what you're planning staffy. But I have an external fork stop setup from accutronix... if you need it.

 

[Staffy]

Thanks all...Valuable input.

Moe, the "stock" plate/dust cover are identical to what you show in the pic, so I will probably end up installing them as Al recommended and ties into your thinking. Will just need to get a new set of screws (I think the threads are different on the AS tree). (got tons of RED & BLUE loctite, can't live without them -lol)

Gas, Thanks for the offer, I'm good for now based on the stock brackets.

Al I will make sure it doesn't hit the tank - specially with the NEW offset, it brings the fork legs MUCH closer.

Got some feedback from Ted at American Suspension - basically the TOP dust cover is a must, however if the frame has the stop "tooth", which it does - the race bearing is a direct fit onto the lower tree.

Guess I will do a dry fit with and without it and see what works best.

Response rom TED @ American Suspension
The lower tree is designed to work with either the PRO ONE type fork stop that has the plate that needs to be bolted to the lower tree or if you have a tooth on the front of your frame it will sit right in the slot machined in the lower tree. If you have neither of those you can use our phantom fork stop. All you do is remove the bottom bearing race and replace it with this part that has a tooth on it.
As long as the stop screws stay below the surface of the tree they will be fine.

As always will follow up with the results - but this one it going to take some time so stay tuned.
Thanks

 

[Moespeeds]

Hey Staffy if you can, try to get that lower plate in there. When I had my accident, the forks were forced fully left and broke the plate. If it wasn't for the plate in there, it would be the tree I would have to replace. The tree is also soft aluminum and the neck cup is steel. The constant working back and forth against the stops may damage the tree, and might cause a ridge to rise at the edges as the aluminum deforms. There is no harm in keeping that plate, you should have plenty of thread on the steering stem.

 

[Staffy]

Hey Staffy if you can, try to get that lower plate in there. When I had my accident, the forks were forced fully left and broke the plate. If it wasn't for the plate in there, it would be the tree I would have to replace. The tree is also soft aluminum and the neck cup is steel. The constant working back and forth against the stops may damage the tree, and might cause a ridge to rise at the edges as the aluminum deforms. There is no harm in keeping that plate, you should have plenty of thread on the steering stem.

Makes sense, no argument here - SOLD and will do :2thumbs: AS ALWAYS - THANK YOU MOE :2thumbs:

 

[Moespeeds]

There is another thing about the springer that I forgot to tell you. My springs rattle over bumps and at certain RPMs. When I take my front end apart in a few weeks, I'm gonna fab some thin plastic or hard rubber washers and install them as a cushion top and bottom on all four springs. Hopefully this will cure the issue. It's really annoying.

 

[alhall88]

There is another thing about the springer that I forgot to tell you. My springs rattle over bumps and at certain RPMs. When I take my front end apart in a few weeks, I'm gonna fab some thin plastic or hard rubber washers and install them as a cushion top and bottom on all four springs. Hopefully this will cure the issue. It's really annoying.

Raise your springer tree slightly to increase the tension. Remember when they state to add 1 inch to the length of the tree over the axle center distance this is set to pre-load the spring.