I need some troubleshooting help here.

[RRRUFF]

:bang:
Alright, I have got a problem that I need some help with. I have been experiencing this for a few months now and it is an intermittent problem. Start the bike before leaving to go to work let bike warm up. Start out no problem and then somewhere in the 25 mile ride to work while running 60/65 mph, bike will just shut off. It’s just like you hit the stop button. Checked start/stop circuit board out and found what I thought was the problem but NO . Bike shuts off again this morning. I can twist the throttle a couple of times and the engine will fire/ back fire (exhaust) but not start. It will do this a couple of twist, then nothing. Head light & running lights still working. I then can switch the bike off and then back on, hit the run button and it will fire back up and run with now problems. It may do this a couple of times in the 25 mile run to work. Then, so far no problems on the ride home. I am thinking electrical and I have check wiring under the tank, head light, tach board and the controller on the right handle bar. Switching the bike off and then back on makes me think electrical but twisting the throttle and getting it to fire/back fire makes me think fuel. Any one else have this problem with these symptoms?

Oh it happens at other times also, not just while I am riding to work but usually when the bike has been sitting for a while, day or two. Also this morning it did it while going the gears.

 

[Gas Man]

key switch is where I'd start

 

[TheDeadOne]

key switch is where I'd start

Agreed :2thumbs:

Maybe 2nd: Right handlebar switch PCB, wiring and connectors all the way back to the "D" connector.

You stated that you found something on the start/stop pcb, what?

Twisting the throttle a couple of times, just makes it easier to start, that's all.

dead

 

[N8KAM]

RRRUFF.
I had the same issue with my 05 last year... When it shuts down BEFORE you touch the key or anything look at your EHC and see if it is all lit up like a Christmas tree. If it is, it is losing power for a split second and trying to shut down (boot-loader) mode.. Mine ended up having to do with a resister located in the Key switch harness "Should have been removed when the updated EHC was installed" we thought it would be the switch but i haven't replaced it yet.... Here is a thread on the resister... http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/technical/4664-little-diag-help.html

Also a link to my original thread with input from Ohmster..http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/4036-bike-shut-down-after-40-miles.html

 

[Raywood]

Could be vapor lock. Check the vent in the gas cap or strip it all out and chuck it.

 

[N8KAM]

Could be vapor lock. Check the vent in the gas cap or strip it all out and chuck it.

Very true... :2thumbs::2thumbs: That is actually the first thing i did.. Good catch Ray.. :2thumbs::2thumbs:

 

[montana]

Could be vapor lock. Check the vent in the gas cap or strip it all out and chuck it.

That's what I was thinking. Remove the "Guts" from the inside of your gas cap and it may help.

 

[dingo]

In addition to all the above comments which I agree with, and at least until you get the problem fully resolved, it might be helpful to NOT twist the throttle a couple of times since you would then be priming an engine that is already warmed up - Just a thought...good luck.

 

[RRRUFF]

Thanks for the responses guys. I have considered the key switch also and I think that's my next step and will probably go with the HD sportster switch so if it turns out to be the EHC, I am going with the wire-plus controller.

Ray,
I have already remove the check valve from the gas cap about a month ago. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuel line to check the flow and I also checked the Pingle filter, no problems found.

N8KAM, it does seem to just lose electrical power for nano second. I checked the fault lights when shut down and looked normal. When I say I twist the throttle I mean it will fire/back fire with out doing anything except twisting the throttle, clutch still engage coasting to a stop.

DeadOne, what I found was a very small sliver of metal, probably from when I install the Cruse-mate lying accross the engine kill post & a ground on the pcb board at the connector. I thought surely this was it.

 

[lee]

Hi I'am looking for a sissybar and struts for a 2004 bigdog ridgeback can anyone help.

eh?

RRRuff - when this happens do you notice the speedo recycle? Isn't that what happens when the key switch is bad? A big problem with having a EHC for me is that it makes electrical troubleshooting / diagnosis that much more difficult. My initial thought would probably not be fuel on this one.

 

[bkingjr]

I had the same problem 3 times. First time it was the starter, 2nd the ignition switch and 3rd was the gas cap not venting. When my EHC went out it wouldn't start at all.

Best of luck RRUFF!

 

[RRRUFF]

Lee,
haven't noticed the speedo cycling, but will watch for it next time this happens. This could be very usefull info. Usually when this happens I am looking for a place to get out of traffic and not get run over.

 

[Raywood]

Ray,
I have already remove the check valve from the gas cap about a month ago. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuel line to check the flow and I also checked the Pingle filter, no problems found.

Ok, then my next thought would be as Lee stated. When it dies do you notice the speedo recycle.

Follow Night Trains guidelines. When it dies pull the seat and see what lights are on the EHC. Then click the run button and see if any change. Then turn key off and do all the same.

May be your EHC dying out on you. Have you checked it recently? Ensure it's full of die-electric grease as maybe water got in it or something.

Hopefully something that is easy to fix and not costly! :2thumbs:

 

[RRRUFF]

Yea Ray I am trying to rule out everything down to the ehc. I will watch for the speedo recycle next time it happens.

 

[RRRUFF]

Okay, something new today to add to the symptoms. Started bike and while warming the engine noticed the little blue indicator light for hi-beam would for a brief moment would illuminate. Did this a few times while I was bumping the throttle to keep the engine from dying while warming up. Give me you thoughts.

Oh, and it didn't shut down this morning on the ride to work.

 

[crazyjoe]

I had a grounding issue once that turned out to be some wires with insulation rubbed off. Check all wires good especially where they touch anywhere. I think this was part of the reason my ehc went bad. Good luck

 

[TheDeadOne]

DeadOne, what I found was a very small sliver of metal, probably from when I install the Cruse-mate lying accross the engine kill post & a ground on the pcb board at the connector. I thought surely this was it.

The silver metal you found was most likely from as you say the cruise-mate or some aluminum thread material from the control housing, which both are conductive. You still may possibly have found your issue, even after it has been removed.
There "may" still be a short in the hand control pcb caused by the previous metal that was removed, check pcb & contacts of switch surfaces.
Also "if" the previous metal was shorting prior to removal, have EHC tested for an "internal", "intermittent" failure of the run/stop circuit.

Remember, keep in mind that "ANYTHING IS ALWAYS POSSIBLE" when it comes to EHC and/or electrical failures, even the "UNSEEN"!

dead

 

[chacha]

Had a similar problem two years back -- trouble shot it down to the Cam sensor in the nose cone. It took some time to eliminate all the possibles. Key indicator was when it dies and would not restart, I'd get no ignition signal (no red led signal at the ignition module.)
Good luck -- it's a bitch when you can't trust your ride to get you to work.