ok sorry for another thread but look what....

[phatchopper300]

I have a problem when shifting into 3rd and above I hear what seems like the gears are mis-alignment. When taking off the primary chain I noticed two scrapes in the inner primary behind the bearing cover. see pic. I was taking off the main clutch nut with 600 lb torque bar and it seemed that the nut was easy to take off, I know it is an over do it on the torque bar but wondering if it was torqued to specs before. There was no lock tight at all that I could see.(will use red) Is thier any else that I could check so I dont put everything back together tighten it all up and still get the same sound. Sound is like gears not grinding but trying to catch and lock in. still have power but awful loud and gets worse shifting into higher gear. It stops when clutch is pulled in or downshifting to 2nd and 1st. COULD MY CLUTCH NUT HAVE BACKED OUT AND CAUSED THIS AND THAT IS CAUSING THE MIS-ALIGNMENT WITH THE SHIFTING THRU THE GEARS. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATFUL OR ANY THOUGHTS AND INPUT.

 

[MARV]

pretty sure they now use a spacer to keep the carrier from rubbing the inner primary

 

[lee]

they do use a spacer as Sul says but I do not see that scraping causing the issues you have. My scrape marks were probably worse than that but I couldn't tell anything or hear anything when riding the bike. Might be a gear box issue. You must have shavings in there somewhere so at the very least I would clean it up thoroughly. Also check inside your rotor for shavings, not that that is likely to be the cause of your symptoms but whilst you are in there you should do this.

 

[bigdogtech01]

I have a problem when shifting into 3rd and above I hear what seems like the gears are mis-alignment. When taking off the primary chain I noticed two scrapes in the inner primary behind the bearing cover. see pic. I was taking off the main clutch nut with 600 lb torque bar and it seemed that the nut was easy to take off, I know it is an over do it on the torque bar but wondering if it was torqued to specs before. There was no lock tight at all that I could see.(will use red) Is thier any else that I could check so I dont put everything back together tighten it all up and still get the same sound. Sound is like gears not grinding but trying to catch and lock in. still have power but awful loud and gets worse shifting into higher gear. It stops when clutch is pulled in or downshifting to 2nd and 1st. COULD MY CLUTCH NUT HAVE BACKED OUT AND CAUSED THIS AND THAT IS CAUSING THE MIS-ALIGNMENT WITH THE SHIFTING THRU THE GEARS. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATFUL OR ANY THOUGHTS AND INPUT.

You most likely don't have the inner clutch hub spacer and YES your hub nut needs red locktite and it most likely was loose. If that hub nut was loose most likely the transmission main shaft walked over and needs to be pulled back into place. Clean the threads on the mainshaft and the nut, before you do your final assembly, install the clutch and hub nut and torque it to 100-130 ftlbs, this should pull the main shaft back to where it belongs. Then take it back apart and RED locktite both nuts, torque to spec or beyond.(100ft lbs on clutch hub, 160ft lbs on front sprocket) I use a air impact and tighten them both until the impact will not tighten any more. Otherwise you will end up having the nuts back off again in the future. I have used this method on literally 1000's of BDM's and H-D's and have never had another loosen back up.
You want to make sure that the bearings are all good inside the transmission while you have it apart as far as you do. Grab hold of the mainshaft and make sure there is no play with up and down movement.
Buy me a ticket and I'll fly down and fix it for ya. I'm not working right now so it would be easy to do now

 

[phatchopper300]

You most likely don't have the inner clutch hub spacer and YES your hub nut needs red locktite and it most likely was loose. If that hub nut was loose most likely the transmission main shaft walked over and needs to be pulled back into place. Clean the threads on the mainshaft and the nut, before you do your final assembly, install the clutch and hub nut and torque it to 100-130 ftlbs, this should pull the main shaft back to where it belongs. Then take it back apart and RED locktite both nuts, torque to spec or beyond.(100ft lbs on clutch hub, 160ft lbs on front sprocket) I use a air impact and tighten them both until the impact will not tighten any more. Otherwise you will end up having the nuts back off again in the future. I have used this method on literally 1000's of BDM's and H-D's and have never had another loosen back up.
You want to make sure that the bearings are all good inside the transmission while you have it apart as far as you do. Grab hold of the mainshaft and make sure there is no play with up and down movement.
Buy me a ticket and I'll fly down and fix it for ya. I'm not working right now so it would be easy to do now

Thanks andrew! When I spoke to you Friday I hadn't had the whole primary apart yet. Should I have a spacer? I will finish it up tonight and follow your instructions. Wish I could pay your ticket down here but money is a little tight but will keep it in mind. The bearings you are refering to are they the ones I can see now with everyting off. If they are they look good. Will post results as soon as I get it back together. Thanks again for your input.
Mike

 

[bigdogtech01]

Thanks andrew! When I spoke to you Friday I hadn't had the whole primary apart yet. Should I have a spacer? I will finish it up tonight and follow your instructions. Wish I could pay your ticket down here but money is a little tight but will keep it in mind. The bearings you are refering to are they the ones I can see now with everyting off. If they are they look good. Will post results as soon as I get it back together. Thanks again for your input.
Mike

Yes you need a shim on the Mainshaft, pull that seal out of the left side of your transmission(black in color, over mainshaft) also pull the small O-ring(orange/brown color) off from the mainshaft and throw that in the trash, do not install another. Behind the O-ring there should be a shim about .060" in thickness, if there is not or if it is old and worn looking, replace it, it is only $2 retail. It should be silver/chrome color, if it is more blackish in color, replace it, the blackish color one is the older style. The older style was made of too soft of material, it needs the harder silver colored one.
The bearings may look good just looking at them but they may still be worn. Like I stated before, make sure there is no play on that mainshaft. Also, did you call your dealer to make sure your countershaft bolt had been replaced with a new one? there is a service bulletin SB1090 I believe, on that bolt and counter sunk washer. Make sure that has been done, if not, make sure you fix that while you are in there.
If you end up needing a rebuild, you can take the transmission out of the bike and send it to me. I can rebuild it and have it back to you within a weeks time most likely.
You have my number, feel free to give me a call.

 

[phatchopper300]

Yes you need a shim on the Mainshaft, pull that seal out of the left side of your transmission(black in color, over mainshaft) also pull the small O-ring(orange/brown color) off from the mainshaft and throw that in the trash, do not install another. Behind the O-ring there should be a shim about .060" in thickness, if there is not or if it is old and worn looking, replace it, it is only $2 retail. It should be silver/chrome color, if it is more blackish in color, replace it, the blackish color one is the older style. The older style was made of too soft of material, it needs the harder silver colored one.
The bearings may look good just looking at them but they may still be worn. Like I stated before, make sure there is no play on that mainshaft. Also, did you call your dealer to make sure your countershaft bolt had been replaced with a new one? there is a service bulletin SB1090 I believe, on that bolt and counter sunk washer. Make sure that has been done, if not, make sure you fix that while you are in there.
If you end up needing a rebuild, you can take the transmission out of the bike and send it to me. I can rebuild it and have it back to you within a weeks time most likely.
You have my number, feel free to give me a call.

I guess next question is the nearest BD dealer is 4 hrs away. Can these seals, shim(mainshaft) and countershaft screw be purchased at an Harley Daividson shop(one 20 min away). Will I need to replace the mainshaft seal when I remove it or will it get damadged when removing. With only 1500 miles on bike I am sure that the countershaft screw was not done to this bike. But I will call today to make sure. Is that screw easy to get to? will the harley shop have these available or do I need to order from a BD dealership. I know I am asking alot of questions just feeling my way thru I'm not in the dark but never have done this before. I hope its not the trans. but if it comes to it I will send to ya.
Thanks a bunch
Mike

 

[bigdogtech01]

I guess next question is the nearest BD dealer is 4 hrs away. Can these seals, shim(mainshaft) and countershaft screw be purchased at an Harley Daividson shop(one 20 min away). Will I need to replace the mainshaft seal when I remove it or will it get damadged when removing. With only 1500 miles on bike I am sure that the countershaft screw was not done to this bike. But I will call today to make sure. Is that screw easy to get to? will the harley shop have these available or do I need to order from a BD dealership. I know I am asking alot of questions just feeling my way thru I'm not in the dark but never have done this before. I hope its not the trans. but if it comes to it I will send to ya.
Thanks a bunch
Mike

Sorry man, the parts are not interchangable with Harley. You can order them from the BDM dealer and maybe have them sent to you for a little extra money, it would be less than driving 4 hrs. Make sure they know what parts you need. I am not sure if anyone on this site has a parts book link that would show you the part along with part numbers. Does anyone on here know of a link to use for that? If you had the part numbers it would help you and the dealer to make sure you are getting the correct parts.
If I was still with the dealer I would just send you all the numbers.
Let me do some research and I will let you know if i find anything.

 

[Raywood]

So many threads here on the shimming of that transmission shaft. It's an old issue but pops up time to time as members of the 05-06's get some miles on there scoots. He's just one. It's for installing the Bandit but still the same.

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/t...lls/7418-attention-bandit-carrier-owners.html

 

[bigdogtech01]

Sorry I don't know what I was thinking, I have a list of part number right here in front of me for the parts you will need for now. This is just seals and gaskets not the bearings and what not for now.

-Primary cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000005-00 $12.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000004-00 $3.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000003-00
$3.95
-clutch hub shim# BDM240-000313-00
$2.50
-Seal Mainshaft L side # BDM110-00207
$5.75
- 1 Qt Primary oil (can be Harley or most any brand NON synthetic)
-1 Qt Transmission oil if needed ( NON synthetic, good brand such as Spectro or BelRay)

I think that cover everything for now.

 

[phatchopper300]

So many threads here on the shimming of that transmission shaft. It's an old issue but pops up time to time as members of the 05-06's get some miles on there scoots. He's just one. It's for installing the Bandit but still the same.

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/t...lls/7418-attention-bandit-carrier-owners.html

Thanks Ray!!

 

[phatchopper300]

Sorry I don't know what I was thinking, I have a list of part number right here in front of me for the parts you will need for now. This is just seals and gaskets not the bearings and what not for now.

-Primary cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000005-00 $12.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000004-00 $3.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000003-00
$3.95
-clutch hub shim# BDM240-000313-00
$2.50
-Seal Mainshaft L side # BDM110-00207
$5.75
- 1 Qt Primary oil (can be Harley or most any brand NON synthetic)
-1 Qt Transmission oil if needed ( NON synthetic, good brand such as Spectro or BelRay)

I think that cover everything for now.

Wow thanks for all the #'s that will help out a bunch. Is the countershaft bolt for the sb1090 under the inner primary cover? If I call a dealer will they be able to know what # it is and can they order it for me.
Thanks

 

[bigdogtech01]

Wow thanks for all the #'s that will help out a bunch. Is the countershaft bolt for the sb1090 under the inner primary cover? If I call a dealer will they be able to know what # it is and can they order it for me.
Thanks

Yes they can order it for you. They should have one is stock being that it is a service bulletin. If you take the inner primary off you will also need the
-counter shaft L side Seal# BDM110-00208 $3.25
-Inner primary/trans O-ring# BDM110-00244 $1.75
-Inner primary to motor O-ring# BDM120-00071 $3.49
-6 small O-rings, Inner Primary# BDM120-00630 $1.25ea.(you need 6)
- 2 small O-ring, Inner primary# Not sure on these, I don't have a number for you, tell BDM they are the 2 small inner primary O-rings that go between the inner primary and the motor.
You can remove the Inner primary keeping the starter bolted up as long as you unhook all the wires off the battery, unplug the starter solenoid wire, remove your side covers, and unhook the wire that runs between the starter solenoid and starter motor. Just makes sure you unhook your battery before you unhook any wires off your starter. Otherwise you may touch a positive to ground and that would be bad news

 

[twowheel99]

Sorry I don't know what I was thinking, I have a list of part number right here in front of me for the parts you will need for now. This is just seals and gaskets not the bearings and what not for now.

-Primary cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000005-00 $12.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000004-00 $3.95
-Inspection cover O-ring seal# BDM120-000003-00
$3.95
-clutch hub shim# BDM240-000313-00
$2.50
-Seal Mainshaft L side # BDM110-00207
$5.75
- 1 Qt Primary oil (can be Harley or most any brand NON synthetic)
-1 Qt Transmission oil if needed ( NON synthetic, good brand such as Spectro or BelRay)

I think that cover everything for now.

I have the first 3 items on the list if you need them, I bought them to keep on hand in my shop and since I've sold my BDM I might as well get rid of them, let me know
2

 

[phatchopper300]

You most likely don't have the inner clutch hub spacer and YES your hub nut needs red locktite and it most likely was loose. If that hub nut was loose most likely the transmission main shaft walked over and needs to be pulled back into place. Clean the threads on the mainshaft and the nut, before you do your final assembly, install the clutch and hub nut and torque it to 100-130 ftlbs, this should pull the main shaft back to where it belongs. Then take it back apart and RED locktite both nuts, torque to spec or beyond.(100ft lbs on clutch hub, 160ft lbs on front sprocket) I use a air impact and tighten them both until the impact will not tighten any more. Otherwise you will end up having the nuts back off again in the future. I have used this method on literally 1000's of BDM's and H-D's and have never had another loosen back up.
You want to make sure that the bearings are all good inside the transmission while you have it apart as far as you do. Grab hold of the mainshaft and make sure there is no play with up and down movement.
Buy me a ticket and I'll fly down and fix it for ya. I'm not working right now so it would be easy to do now

ok here is the update. I removed primary and tightened the clutch hub nut with air gun to possible pull over a main shaft that has walked over due to a loose clutch nut. Put it all back together and what I was experienced before that gear catching when shifting into third gear and above. Now with the adjustment 1-2-3 no problem but now the gear is catching a little in 4th not bad and more in 5th and 6th. I believe it helped but will need to torque the main shaft some more to pull over the rest of the way. I will attach a pic for what I saw the first time I pulled the clutch. Is this normal. It doesn't look like it should. Anyone know what it is from? Its the swirl marks on the pressure plate. Does anybody know what the torque of the 4 pivot plate hex bolts on the outside of the clutch that you can see. Can you tighten to much so the clutch diaphram spring doesn't operate properly. Bolts that hold the clutch diaphram spring. nAny help would help me get this issue solved I am ready to ride. I did notice the primary sounded great in the first 3 gears no racket like before.

 

[Raywood]

ok here is the update. I removed primary and tightened the clutch hub nut with air gun to possible pull over a main shaft that has walked over due to a loose clutch nut. Put it all back together and what I was experienced before that gear catching when shifting into third gear and above. Now with the adjustment 1-2-3 no problem but now the gear is catching a little in 4th not bad and more in 5th and 6th. I believe it helped but will need to torque the main shaft some more to pull over the rest of the way. I will attach a pic for what I saw the first time I pulled the clutch. Is this normal. It doesn't look like it should. Anyone know what it is from? Its the swirl marks on the pressure plate. Does anybody know what the torque of the 4 pivot plate hex bolts on the outside of the clutch that you can see. Can you tighten to much so the clutch diaphram spring doesn't operate properly. Bolts that hold the clutch diaphram spring. nAny help would help me get this issue solved I am ready to ride. I did notice the primary sounded great in the first 3 gears no racket like before.

Looks like machine marks from the milling process if you ask me.

As for the 4 pressure plate bolts there is no reference for them in the service manual or in the Bandit instructions. So I just used some loctite and tightened them up and have had no issues.

 

[bigdogtech01]

ok here is the update. I removed primary and tightened the clutch hub nut with air gun to possible pull over a main shaft that has walked over due to a loose clutch nut. Put it all back together and what I was experienced before that gear catching when shifting into third gear and above. Now with the adjustment 1-2-3 no problem but now the gear is catching a little in 4th not bad and more in 5th and 6th. I believe it helped but will need to torque the main shaft some more to pull over the rest of the way. I will attach a pic for what I saw the first time I pulled the clutch. Is this normal. It doesn't look like it should. Anyone know what it is from? Its the swirl marks on the pressure plate. Does anybody know what the torque of the 4 pivot plate hex bolts on the outside of the clutch that you can see. Can you tighten to much so the clutch diaphram spring doesn't operate properly. Bolts that hold the clutch diaphram spring. nAny help would help me get this issue solved I am ready to ride. I did notice the primary sounded great in the first 3 gears no racket like before.

No need to worry, it is normal machining marks from the mill.
The torque on the 5/16" bolts you are talking about is 18ft lbs. with a drop of RED locktite. Did you check the Countershaft bolt I had talked to you about? If you are still having issues with gear meshing you may need to have it rebuilt. I sent that shim to you today you you should have it in a few days. Let me know what else you find.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Oh yeah, what does the other side of the pressure plate look like? Take a picture of it and send it to me if you can. A good one so I can see the marks.

 

[Chopper117]

No need to worry, it is normal machining marks from the mill.
The torque on the 5/16" bolts you are talking about is 18ft lbs. with a drop of RED locktite. Did you check the Countershaft bolt I had talked to you about? If you are still having issues with gear meshing you may need to have it rebuilt. I sent that shim to you today you you should have it in a few days. Let me know what else you find.

This sounds like the problem I was having and it was the countershaft bolt that walked on me and stripped. Had to get a whole new assembly $450....$1250 installed.

 

[phatchopper300]

This sounds like the problem I was having and it was the countershaft bolt that walked on me and stripped. Had to get a whole new assembly $450....$1250 installed.

Is this what the tranny looks like behind the inner primary. Is this the bolt that can come loose in these models. What was your symtoms you where having when this happened. I get gear catching or grabbing will still have torque but sounds bad when shifting into 4th gear. I am going to look into the tranny and look at the shift forks. Thanks for your input and like to hear what you have done. thanks Mike