Clutch lever has no pressure

[phatchopper300]

Clutch has no pressure and cable adjustment has bottomed out? THe cable adjustment is all the way out(on the down tube) and has bottomed out and clutch lever has no pressure on it? I did tighten the clutch nut on primary side to 120 ft pounds. and put clutch basket together and diaphram and pressure plate. I get no movement on the diaphram spring? Any sugg. I did a search and couldn't find any post on this problem. Thanks for any advise. I did check the ball and ramp ass. and looked ok.

 

[woodbutcher]

could be as simple as the cable has stretched.

 

[Fibersnake]

How did you put the diaphrame plate back on and tighten the nuts for the pressure plate? May have tighten that part too much.

If not mistaken the pressure plate (part that presses against the plates with the throw out bearing in it) bolts are torque to around 200 inch pounds evenly in steps or more accurately by measuring the depression of how much the convex curve is change.

Try a search for I posted my method awhile back which basically consist of using a vernier and measuring the difference between the height of the plate at the center compared to the edge by the basket and getting it to the specs in Baker info. Do not recall what that is right off hand but if you do not find it, will send an update once I get back home this evening or tomorrow.

Good luck!

Clutch has no pressure and cable adjustment has bottomed out? THe cable adjustment is all the way out(on the down tube) and has bottomed out and clutch lever has no pressure on it? I did tighten the clutch nut on primary side to 120 ft pounds. and put clutch basket together and diaphram and pressure plate. I get no movement on the diaphram spring? Any sugg. I did a search and couldn't find any post on this problem. Thanks for any advise. I did check the ball and ramp ass. and looked ok.

 

[woodbutcher]

i knew there was a reason besides your good looks that we keep you around, tim!!! :2thumbs:

 

[bigdogtech01]

Clutch has no pressure and cable adjustment has bottomed out? THe cable adjustment is all the way out(on the down tube) and has bottomed out and clutch lever has no pressure on it? I did tighten the clutch nut on primary side to 120 ft pounds. and put clutch basket together and diaphram and pressure plate. I get no movement on the diaphram spring? Any sugg. I did a search and couldn't find any post on this problem. Thanks for any advise. I did check the ball and ramp ass. and looked ok.

If you were to remove the cable at the lever side, can you pull that cable out? Maybe the cable is broken? Give me a call if you can't figure it out. I'll be available most of this morning. This afternoon I'll be out in the woods cutting down some trees

 

[bigdogtech01]

Also, you do want the 4 5/16" bolts holding the pressure plate and spring to be torqued to 18 ft lbs with RED locktite. You also want between .045"-.055" of dome height on the spring. If you do not have this, I have shims that you can install onto the studs to get you there. Let me know.

Note: This will not give you excessive cable freeplay. you have something else going on. When you installed your clutch assy. You used RED locktite and then torqued it down? Did you let the locktite setup or use the locktite priming agent? If so, you might not be truly torqued down against the main bearing race. If for what ever reason the nut binds up and torques itself on the threads before it is against the main bearing inner race, this will cause you to have too much play with your cable. In other words, the clutch pushrod is traveling too far. I would go back threw it and double check your work.

 

[phatchopper300]

I should be more detailed. The cable is not broken. and clutch handle leaver will have no pressure until half way down when pulling on it. The clutch adjustment is all the way out or seprated apart. The ball and ramp was cleaned and everything was in place. Now on the primary side the clutch nut was troqued to 120 lbs. when I pull the clutch leaver the clutch actautor will not move like it used to. The diaphram on the primary side doesn't move also. THE THING I NOTICED IS THAT THE CLUTCH HUB NUT ON PRIMARY SIDE DOESN'T COVER THE MAIN SHAFT. I CAN STILL SEE THREADS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CLUTCH HUB NUT.

 

[phatchopper300]

Went back and checked the main shaft nut and it is all tight. Did notice the nut when torqued to spec. was showing a few threads like it was not torqued all the way down. 120 ft lbs. was used. Like I said before the ball and ramp was cleaned and rechecked. All of this was not doing this before I took out the tranny for repair. I didnt touch the ball and ramp just laid it to the side. I did have the shift rod skimmed down a little to fix the thickness from the older model rods. When I looked at the ball and ramp should the top part of the ball and ramp (plate that is on the three little balls) should it be pulled all the way to the right so when the clutch leaver is pulled it pulls the ball and ramp toward the point of cable connection to the housing. Hope this makes sence. Its just to simple that this is driving me nuts. I have pulled the tranny and whole primary and starter and had no problems :bang::angry::bang::bang::bang:until this .

 

[Nomad2day]

I have had this happen before. The ramp had been triggered per said in the cover and I made the adjustment on the clutch and had what you say. I loosened the jam nut on the clutch adjustment and the cable tension adjuster and put the allen wrench on the clutch adjustment and started to tighten it down until it popped back where it should be. I then backed it off and adjusted it. It was like the clutch had been engaged when I had the cover off and then put it on. I then adjusted everything according to the manual.
Neil

 

[bigdogtech01]

Went back and checked the main shaft nut and it is all tight. Did notice the nut when torqued to spec. was showing a few threads like it was not torqued all the way down. 120 ft lbs. was used. Like I said before the ball and ramp was cleaned and rechecked. All of this was not doing this before I took out the tranny for repair. I didnt touch the ball and ramp just laid it to the side. I did have the shift rod skimmed down a little to fix the thickness from the older model rods. When I looked at the ball and ramp should the top part of the ball and ramp (plate that is on the three little balls) should it be pulled all the way to the right so when the clutch leaver is pulled it pulls the ball and ramp toward the point of cable connection to the housing. Hope this makes sence. Its just to simple that this is driving me nuts. I have pulled the tranny and whole primary and starter and had no problems :bang::angry::bang::bang::bang:until this .

Yes Mike, it is all in that Ball and Ramp assy. With the cover in hand and ramp assy out, make sure it is down in place, closed I guess you would say, so the gap is the smallest . Wish I had a picture of this, it would make it a lot easier to explain to you on here and over the phone.
When you put that ramp assy. together it should not be flush on the other side. The inside ramp should protrude a little past the outside ramp. Does this make sense? If you still can't figure it out, email me some pictures of what you have. Some closeups of the ball and ramp assy. would be nice.
Taking .005" off the outside diameter of your pushrod will not cause this. Your cable should be good still if it was before you removed your transmission. It has to be something else. This is why I'm looking at that Ramp assembly.

 

[phatchopper300]

Yes Mike, it is all in that Ball and Ramp assy. With the cover in hand and ramp assy out, make sure it is down in place, closed I guess you would say, so the gap is the smallest . Wish I had a picture of this, it would make it a lot easier to explain to you on here and over the phone.
When you put that ramp assy. together it should not be flush on the other side. The inside ramp should protrude a little past the outside ramp. Does this make sense? If you still can't figure it out, email me some pictures of what you have. Some closeups of the ball and ramp assy. would be nice.
Taking .005" off the outside diameter of your pushrod will not cause this. Your cable should be good still if it was before you removed your transmission. It has to be something else. This is why I'm looking at that Ramp assembly.

I will see about getting pictures. I was thinking about the ball and ramp assembly. when I put the two pieces together with the three metal balls should it fit together with no spacing between the two sides. Because it seems that when its in place there is no spring back when the leaver is pulled looks like there should be a spring to push back the ball and ramp assembly. I probably need to post some pics to help explain what I was refering to. This is an older ramp assembly but it might help pic#1. Here are some pics from Gas. Sorry Gas hope you didn't mind.

 

[Gas Man]

its all good Phat... I was just going to do the same thing...

The spring is the clutch basket spring. When you release the clutch handle it pushes the clutch rod back and spins the ball ramp assembly back "closed".

It is important to have the ball ramp "closed" or closer together when you make your adjustment.

But it works this way once its adjusted.

When you peal back the entire assembly then remove the cover. The bottom plate is fixed and stays put. When you pull the clutch, it rotates the top plate. This makes the plate walk the bearings up the ramp that you can see in the clean pieces pic. Seperating/spreading or "opening" the 2 plates. This pushes the clutch rod thru the trans and pushes the outer clutch plate and spring out. Releasing the pressure on the clutch plates (steels to fibers). Therefor seperating the power from the motor (via the primary chain) to the trans input.

Then as said, when you release the clutch the ball ramp plates "close" and the clutch spring re-applies the pressure to the clutch plates, connecting that OH GOOD power from the engine back into the trans.

ALWAYS test your adjustment before you attempt to ride. If you messed up the part where the ball ramp wasn't seated... it will show here... your freeplay at the lever will come back.

 

[phatchopper300]

its all good Phat... I was just going to do the same thing...

The spring is the clutch basket spring. When you release the clutch handle it pushes the clutch rod back and spins the ball ramp assembly back "closed".

It is important to have the ball ramp "closed" or closer together when you make your adjustment.

But it works this way once its adjusted.

When you peal back the entire assembly then remove the cover. The bottom plate is fixed and stays put. When you pull the clutch, it rotates the top plate. This makes the plate walk the bearings up the ramp that you can see in the clean pieces pic. Seperating/spreading or "opening" the 2 plates. This pushes the clutch rod thru the trans and pushes the outer clutch plate and spring out. Releasing the pressure on the clutch plates (steels to fibers). Therefor seperating the power from the motor (via the primary chain) to the trans input.

Then as said, when you release the clutch the ball ramp plates "close" and the clutch spring re-applies the pressure to the clutch plates, connecting that OH GOOD power from the engine back into the trans.

ALWAYS test your adjustment before you attempt to ride. If you messed up the part where the ball ramp wasn't seated... it will show here... your freeplay at the lever will come back.

Thanks Gas-I did see where I didn't have the ball and ramp closed before due to all the greese. I adjusted this and man worked like a charm! I put everything back and rode her. Since I have gotten back my tranny from bigdogtech01 (Andrew) she rides great. The tranny is so quite and shifting is very smooth.I even had the pushrod shaved down to .005". Kudos again to Andrew! If you need a tranny rebuilt send it to him. He stands behind his work(gives you a waranty) and has all the proper tools to complete the job!! Now if the weather will work with me so I can put some real miles on! Lets ride!!:2thumbs:

 

[Billy Big Dog]

Actually here is the PDF instructions for the clutch and it says to: The diaphragm spring & spring retainer are installed next. (spring retainer goes beveled side in). Tighten the shouldered nuts equally (cross pattern) until they bottom. Tighten shouldered nuts until they bottom, bend over locking tabs.

Here is the link:
http://www.riveraengineering.com/PRO-CLUTCH_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

 

[Billy Big Dog]

For best performance the diaphragm spring
MUST be compressed to within .010”-.020” of being flat when the shouldered spring retainer nuts have been properly
tightened (bottomed)! This will provide maximum spring pressure to the clutch pack, with minimum hand
effort at the handlebar!
Three clutch springs are available: A stock replacement spring (black in color), a medium spring for street performance
(silver in color), and a competition spring (gold in color) for drag race only applications.