Clutch Hub Nut - What Tools/Experience Level?

[linx]

Ok guys,
As you may know, I'm fighting a vibration issue on my bike, and I'm wanting to nip it in the butt before it breaks something. Does it seem like the clutch hub nut may be a possibility?
Here's my thread on the vibration issues: http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/19402-problem-dog-not-sure-how-describe.html

So, I'm no mechanic. The most mechanical work I've ever done was installing a lift kit on a jacked up truck I had, and doing routine maintenance like oil changes/plug wires/plugs/radiators, and shit like that on trucks/jeeps. I'm not the type that can look at a pile of parts and put a motor together or anything like that. Even the lift kit had detailed instructions, lol.

So I'm reading all these threads, and seeing how hard it is to tear into this thing and make sure it's not the clutch nut. It looks like this is the general idea:
#1. Put the bike on a jack/lift.
#2. Drain the primary fluid.
#3. Remove the primary cover.
#4. Loosen chain tensioner.
#5. Remove chain and sprockets. ?
#6. Loosen Clutch Nut.
#7. Put lock-tite on the threads.
#8. Reinstall Clutch Nut to 120lbs with a torque wrench. ?
Lastly, reverse the steps above and put the shit back together. Also I see the clutch nut is reverse thread.

This will be my first major bike project EVER. Any steps I'm missing here?

TOOLS...
I don't have a bike lift, but I will be probably buying a motorcycle jack from like Craftsman or Harbor Freight. I wish I could afford a $600 lift, but I have no where to store it, and there's this one problem...cash, lol.
I have a full set of T-Handle allen wrenches, as well as a full set of allen sockets. I have a 2 full sets of sockets/ratchets. I have wrenches/screwdrivers, etc. I have a air compressor, and air tools to go with it, although I'd rather use hand tools to keep from damaging.

Is there anything else I need? I know I'll need primary fluid, but I haven't yet researched to see what kind, or how much. Does the primary cover have a gasket or anything?

I know these issues have been discussed, but I'm just not 100% comfortable going in with the lights off. At the same time, I can't afford $100-150 every 2 weeks at my local dealer for them to not find the problem, or temporarily find the problem. They're good people, but it's just a busy time of the year for all dealers.

Thanks to any of the experts that want to chime in. Also thanks for taking time to read this shit.
One of my first posts was about buying this bike, and a guy mentions the clutch hub nut in this thread :http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/17460-any-bugs-known-issues-2006-k-9-a.html

Rob - linx

 

[mobsta]

i thought it was fixed!if the shop said they fixed it and its not,take it back,thats just my

 

[mobsta]

sorry pushed wrong button,thats just my 2cents,however pulling the primary is fairly easy dont sweat it

 

[Brew]

:iagree: I also thought you were fixed. Take it back and have them fix it...

 

[lee]

I would still double check the nuts they tightened - as I said in your other thread if you simply move a nut you will break the loctite seal and it could come loose quite easily.

The clutch hub nut is not difficult to do. Get yourself a decent torque wrench that clicks for both left and right hand threads. Other than that you seem pretty good to go. Drain the fluid and remove the cover (loosen each bolt a bit at a time - same when tightening, so you don't warp anything. There is a set order for the cover bolts but you should be ok). Remove the diaphragm spring and you'll see the clutch hub nut. Stick a rag between the primary chain and the ring gear to hold it in place - you will also need something to wedge between the clutch hub and the ring gear to hold everything in place. Undo the nut, clean the threads, red loctite and retighten to spec. Whilst you're in there check the motor nut too and the chain tension. The chain tension is much easier to adjust with the primary cover off tan it is through the inspection hole. As you said try to stay away from using a air impact if you can. if things are real tight you should be able to get it with a breaker bar.

 

[slowrower]

Good advice Lee ... Its not a tough job, just take your time. When reinstalling the primary cover use a bit of grease to hold the rubber gasket (seal) in place and follow the bolt pattern in the book. The BDM Manual has good instruction on how to do this - if you do pull the clutch pack out be sure to stuff a small rag around the transmission shaft or it will weep fluid. You Can Do It! Having done a few of these DO NOT DO THIS on one of the small motorcycle lifts - do it on the ground so you can hold lock up the gears before applying torque (I have a piece of Oak I use fir this).

 

[BWG56]

Ok guys,
As you may know, I'm fighting a vibration issue on my bike, and I'm wanting to nip it in the butt before it breaks something. Does it seem like the clutch hub nut may be a possibility?
Here's my thread on the vibration issues: http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/19402-problem-dog-not-sure-how-describe.html

So, I'm no mechanic. The most mechanical work I've ever done was installing a lift kit on a jacked up truck I had, and doing routine maintenance like oil changes/plug wires/plugs/radiators, and shit like that on trucks/jeeps. I'm not the type that can look at a pile of parts and put a motor together or anything like that. Even the lift kit had detailed instructions, lol.

So I'm reading all these threads, and seeing how hard it is to tear into this thing and make sure it's not the clutch nut. It looks like this is the general idea:
#1. Put the bike on a jack/lift.
#2. Drain the primary fluid.
#3. Remove the primary cover.
#4. Loosen chain tensioner.
#5. Remove chain and sprockets. ?
#6. Loosen Clutch Nut.
#7. Put lock-tite on the threads.
#8. Reinstall Clutch Nut to 120lbs with a torque wrench. ?
Lastly, reverse the steps above and put the shit back together. Also I see the clutch nut is reverse thread.

This will be my first major bike project EVER. Any steps I'm missing here?

TOOLS...
I don't have a bike lift, but I will be probably buying a motorcycle jack from like Craftsman or Harbor Freight. I wish I could afford a $600 lift, but I have no where to store it, and there's this one problem...cash, lol.
I have a full set of T-Handle allen wrenches, as well as a full set of allen sockets. I have a 2 full sets of sockets/ratchets. I have wrenches/screwdrivers, etc. I have a air compressor, and air tools to go with it, although I'd rather use hand tools to keep from damaging.

Is there anything else I need? I know I'll need primary fluid, but I haven't yet researched to see what kind, or how much. Does the primary cover have a gasket or anything?

I know these issues have been discussed, but I'm just not 100% comfortable going in with the lights off. At the same time, I can't afford $100-150 every 2 weeks at my local dealer for them to not find the problem, or temporarily find the problem. They're good people, but it's just a busy time of the year for all dealers.

Thanks to any of the experts that want to chime in. Also thanks for taking time to read this shit.
One of my first posts was about buying this bike, and a guy mentions the clutch hub nut in this thread :http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/17460-any-bugs-known-issues-2006-k-9-a.html

Rob - linx

Skip #4 & 5 don't need to, just check tension after tightening clutch nut. Clean the nut and threads good with a cleaner before putting loctite on and tightening. Also you should torque the nut to 150# to seat it first, then remove nut and loctite, then do the final nut torque.

 

[kiwi]

Skip #4 & 5 don't need to, just check tension after tightening clutch nut. Clean the nut and threads good with a cleaner before putting loctite on and tightening. Also you should torque the nut to 150# to seat it first, then remove nut and loctite, then do the final nut torque.

:iagree:You dont need to do 4&5 , i did it on my dog and when you are doing it up get a bud to sit on the bike and put in gear and he will have to hold on brakes and even put a chock in front of back wheel , dont forget that it is a left hand thread , it will also feel like you are going to snap the bolt and then you haveit just about there. if you dont have a trque wrench that does left had thread just do it as tight as you can
good luck
p.s If i could do it you will be able to

 

[linx]

Wow, thanks for the replies.
To answer the question about the bike being "fixed". Well, the damn thing ran DECENT for a few hundred miles, then started vibrating again. At this point, I can call R&B, but I don't want the bike to be in the shop for 2-3 weeks for something I may be able to do in a few hours. I did check the engine bolts, again, and all is super tight, and loctited up.

I'm just confused and I feel this is the next thing in line in order to solve this problem before I worry about tearing the engine apart. I do plan in the future of changing out to S&S rocker boxes, but I don't think that's my current problem.

After this, if the vibration is still there, then I'll more than likely check her into the mechanic for "exploratory surgery"!

Nice to know I can skip step 4 and 5. I need to get the BDM manual. Is there an online download available?

 

[TheDeadOne]

Before you go to all that trouble. Open up the Primary access panel and put the bike in a higher gear and rotate the rear wheel. You might need to pull the spark plugs to make it easier.
Then watch the flywheel & clutch basket for a wobble movement. Also watch for the primary chain to go from loose to tight and back tight again. If you see a wobble or chain tension changing, then go ahead and drain the primary fluid, remove the outer primary cover to get a better look see about what's happening.
Then try and re-torque the clutch basket nut. If it's loose Great! Remove and clean threads and add Lic-tite "Red" and re-torque to specs.
If it's not loose, you've got problems!
Go ahead and plan to disassemble the clutch basket assembly and check for a broke clutch basket (maybe, but doubtful) or a bent trans. input shaft or bad input shaft "bearing"! :down:

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

dead

 

[wyatt580]

my clutch hub nut is so lose. but didn't get any vibration from that. doing it right now. waiting for wife to bring home a 30mm socket. wow i'm getting old got one in the impact set see ya good luck. bike week going on.......................................

 

[linx]

I'm planning on opening the primary access panel this week, and if need be I'll take the cover off and tighten the nut. Just an update. :flag:

I would have done it this weekend, but this weekend was honey-do and hardwood floor install in the living room of my house. :down: Damn I'm tired!

 

[linx]

Ok guys,
After a fun experience of getting the bike in the air, I finally got the inspection plate off, and I can't move the rear wheel more than a quarter of a turn. I tried in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear..all no-go. Then I tried in 1st and it didn't do any better.

So any other ideas other than just tearing her apart?

Also, can someone point me to a article that will tell me the proper torque specs on the primary cover, and in which order to tigthen them?

Thanks for all the help. I was hoping I would be able to just take the inspection plate off and see the problem as stated, but life aint always easy.

 

[TheDeadOne]

Linx,
Sorry, I should have told you to leave the bike on the ground to try the rotation testing with the inspection cover off. :bang: My fault, Sorry!

I guess that you've got a choice to make, put it back on the ground and put the bike in 5th or 6th gear and try rolling it again (I don't know how hard it is for you to put the bike up and down, because I use a lift), or just go ahead and remove the outer primary cover and see what's-what.

Sorry again!

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

dead

 

[BigDogBro1]

I had a vibration begining on my bike recently. Normally mine is pretty solid when I run up to a higer RPM between shifts, statrting in 1st to 3rd gears. Then I noticed this slight vibration and I knew to check the upper engine mount and cover bolts. I check and found one head mount bolt was not tight. I purchased new 1-1/4" long bolts and used blue Loctite. I made sure the cover head bolts were holding the coil cover down on the fiber spacer/washers and head bosses and the cover was up against the upper frame mount before tightening everything down. Doing this assured me that the cover would be in contact with all mounting points and was not being twisted or forced into position.

It took some time to screw in the longer 1-1/4" bolts and then let it set for 24 hours to cure the Loctite. On the last ride it felt solid again with no abnormal vibrations.

BigdogBro2 just had his clutch lever go limp when the clutch basket nut backed out with no prior vibration.

Hope this helps.

 

[TheDeadOne]

Linx,

Am I dumb or what? DUH! :bang::bang::bang::bang:

Just use the damn starter to turn the thing over! :lol::lol::lol:

I've been dealing with so many starter issues lately, I keep forgetting when one actually works! DUH! :bang::bang::bang::bang:

:roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:

Maybe this will make it MUCH easier, huh?

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

dead

 

[linx]

Linx,

Am I dumb or what? DUH! :bang::bang::bang::bang:

Just use the damn starter to turn the thing over! :lol::lol::lol:

I've been dealing with so many starter issues lately, I keep forgetting when one actually works! DUH! :bang::bang::bang::bang:

:roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:

Maybe this will make it MUCH easier, huh?

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

dead

Haha, I appreciate all suggestions.
Tried the starter with the inspection plate of, and lost a ton of fluid, lol. I also tried to roll the bike on the ground in 5th and 6th gear and I MAY be able to do it, but it's going to take some finesse to watch the internals while the bike is rolling. I'll let ya know for sure.

 

[erldawg]

Just curious did you ever solve the vibration problem Linx?

Going back through the posts I did not see anyone saying to remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over while turning the rear wheel in 5th or 6th gear. Please correct me if I missed that part....

 

[what?]

How about the tightening pattern?

I'm fixing to open up the primary to check the hub nut. My clutch cable went slack last time out.

I thought i read 9 pounds for each bolt. Is that correct? and how critical is the pattern?

thanks

 

[Tomtang aka Reptilejim]

I notice about 2 weeks ago that my coil cover had broken and the bolt was just sitting there not making contact with the cover. Then I checked the other cover bolt and it was loose. The mounting bolt to the frame was tight. Where can I get a new coil cover?