How do they do it?

Energy One
BFB

BFB

Bad dog, no bisquit
I think you are thinking of a fabric softner sheet that you throw in the dryer, Very dry and coarse. Dry Swiffer pads are for dry sweeping floors on a swiffer mop. They are very very soft.
 
K9Anniv

K9Anniv

Well-Known Member
BFB said:
I think you are thinking of a fabric softner sheet that you throw in the dryer, Very dry and coarse. Dry Swiffer pads are for dry sweeping floors on a swiffer mop. They are very very soft.
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Ahhh...ok, I'm not familiar with those..I'll have to check them out. Usually the words "scratch" and "bike" don't go well in the same sentence...had me a little worried!:eek::willy_nilly::nono:
 
S

Satterfield

Member
KaptinAmerika said:
You can do that too if you have the money and time. Ed is a wicked ass painter and once you have your paint that smooth it is a hell of alot easier to keep it that way. Unless you ride daily and put alot of wear and tear on your paint then, at some point, your going to need a little more information than just which wax, sealer e.t.c to use.
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So what then would be the answer for the "Daily Rider" as you describe as the best way to stay on top of it with the least work and time without giving up the quality-I understand that these are kind of opposite ideals. However, I am new at this and I am just trying to cut down to the bottom line answers.
I for one thank you very much for the time that you have taken to help others take care of their bikes with the benefit of your experience.
Thanks "T"
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S

Satterfield

Member
Is there an acceptable and relatively inexpensive low level power tool that can be (safely) used with the "polishing" or is "wax on wax off" the best way to "Stay"? I know it is perhaps not the brightest question here so far, but if I don't ask I will not hear anyone's opinion. I do not have the experience to make an informed decision for myself so I appreciate the help of those who do (have the experience).
Thanks, "T"
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Damn T is that really a pic of you? Lookin really good man. I spent years pumping iron. Got up to 365lbs and was just about to start doing shows and blew both knees out doing 700 pound squats for reps. Of course that was a few years ago and the next thing to go was the elbows and a shoulder now I am reduced to just dumbbells anything heavier and I can't hardly move.
Lookin really good though Bro keep up the good work.

Satterfield said:
KaptinAmerika said:
You can do that too if you have the money and time. Ed is a wicked ass painter and once you have your paint that smooth it is a hell of alot easier to keep it that way. Unless you ride daily and put alot of wear and tear on your paint then, at some point, your going to need a little more information than just which wax, sealer e.t.c to use.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
So what then would be the answer for the "Daily Rider" as you describe as the best way to stay on top of it with the least work and time without giving up the quality-I understand that these are kind of opposite ideals. However, I am new at this and I am just trying to cut down to the bottom line answers.
I for one thank you very much for the time that you have taken to help others take care of their bikes with the benefit of your experience.
Thanks "T"
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Satterfield said:
Is there an acceptable and relatively inexpensive low level power tool that can be (safely) used with the "polishing" or is "wax on wax off" the best way to "Stay"? I know it is perhaps not the brightest question here so far, but if I don't ask I will not hear anyone's opinion. I do not have the experience to make an informed decision for myself so I appreciate the help of those who do (have the experience).
Thanks, "T"
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Okay guys first thing is make sure you have followed ALL the advice earlier in this thread. Once you have that covered then you can start maintaining your paint more easily.
Now as a daily rider I am in lline with Skulz. Its not likely your going to keep that "Show Sign" simply because the very nature of the bike traveling through the ether, I know but I don't have a better way to describe, wind, sun, sand blown up off the road e.t.c., is going to keep the light scratches in your paint. I have buffed out my pant to a mirror shine with no swirls, ride to a show, and boom theres the fine scratches again. Its just the nature of the beast. However, having a good hard shell on top of your GOOD clear coat is your first saviour because it is far easier to get those fine swirl marks out of YOUR appllied hard shell, which is actually softer than your Clear Coat, than it is to actually buff them out of the clear coat. The cool thing is once I get to the show I take out my "Scratch Out" go over the paint once, lightly remember pressure is the name of the game when going for a smooth polished finish, and I have that "Show Shine" back again.
Okay so you have some light scratches that are killing your elbows from rubbing. Well you don't want to spend the rest of your life getting your "Show Shine" so your going to need a little mechanical help. Especially if you have done some wet sandiing as described earlier in this thread. A rotary buffer, with adjustable speed and a very SOFT Bonnet, is your ticket. Working in the area of 1500 to 2100 rpm. This is a bit messy because I use the scratch out to get my gloss finish back and liquids never work real well with a rotary because the rotary likes to fling the liquid so cover all exposed areas of your ride that you won't be buffing or you'll be cleaning that part of your bike as well and we don't want that. Now when your applying the scratch out initially keep the buffer down to around 1000 rpm, that will reduce the flinging, then as the liquid becomes creamy and sticky gradually increase the buffers speed up to around 2100 and work the buffer until the gloss starts to come up. At this pont you can start pressing a little harder on the buffer to start working any finite scratches out but be careful at edges as these tend to be thinner than falt areas and you can easily burn through the paint if your not careful. When your done buffing then reapply your Liquid Glass but keep the pressure light. Liquid Glass does not need to be "Rubbed" in to the paint. It only needs to applied gently in a back and forth direction and then allowed to bake in the sun.
As far as day to day, use a good waterless cleaner, Bug Slip is being touted but I haven't received mine yet so I don't have personal experience with it, and 100% cotton. If you wrags have tags on them then remove the tags before using them. Don't just tear the tag off either because some of the tag can get left under the stitching and it can leave scratches when your buffing.
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H

Husker-Wolf

Active Member
Good buffers:

Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher

Flex XC 3401 Dual Action Polisher

The flex is better and neither of these buffers will do damage to your clear like a true rotary buffer will in the hands of a novice.
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Husker-Wolf said:
Good buffers:

Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher

Flex XC 3401 Dual Action Polisher

The flex is better and neither of these buffers will do damage to your clear like a true rotary buffer will in the hands of a novice.
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Good call Husker, I often forget that newbies don't have the experience or skills for some of the tools used and the dual action polishers are definitely safer.
 
S

Satterfield

Member
KaptinAmerika said:
Damn T is that really a pic of you? Lookin really good man. I spent years pumping iron. Got up to 365lbs and was just about to start doing shows and blew both knees out doing 700 pound squats for reps. Of course that was a few years ago and the next thing to go was the elbows and a shoulder now I am reduced to just dumbbells anything heavier and I can't hardly move.
Lookin really good though Bro keep up the good work.

Satterfield said:
Thank for the compliment Kaptin, and yes, the picture really is me, I never thought about anyone thinking that it would not be. I would typically do a triple with 550 and finish my bench sets with a single with 575 just during the course of my 20 set chest work, I finish with 405 for ten. I don't "power lift", pressing movements were my strongest, I once did a seated BHN with 405 free weight. My squats would work up to 600 x8.Eventually, the heavy weights will take their toll as they have on me as well. I can no longer do these feats either, my arms were over 22" in this photo. Thanks again for all your help, you are a great resource for everyone here, freely sharing you experience. Thanks again, "T"
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S

Satterfield

Member
Husker-Wolf said:
Good buffers:

Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher

Flex XC 3401 Dual Action Polisher

The flex is better and neither of these buffers will do damage to your clear like a true rotary buffer will in the hands of a novice.
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Husker, where would one find these particular tools for sale at at?
Thanks, "T"
 
RuDawg

RuDawg

Red Cloud
A friend turned me on to Honda Spray Cleaner/Polish 7 years ago and I have been using it ever since wiping down the bike between washes. My clear coat on the 02 Boxer still looks really good and I have wiped it down with heavy dirt on it...no scratches. You can find it for about $4 or $5 and works great! I believe it's discontinued and the new stuff is call "Original" Spray Cleaner and polish (charging a couple of bucks more), but you can still find the Honda stuff. Here's a link if your interested.

Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish 12oz Spray Parker Yamaha.com

Will definitely have to try the Bugslide and Kapt A's tips.

THANKS!
 
S

Satterfield

Member
They don't seem to have an Internet purchasing system set up. I was a little worried since the product claims to leave behind a "coating" agent on the surface I thought that might be a conflict with the say..the "liquid glass" product.

Thanks, "T"
 

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