Replacing Sprocket Shaft Oil Seal

[Staffy]

Am in the processes of replacing the sprocket shaft oil seal – (Lip (spring) facing outward for wet primaries and lip (spring)facing inward for dry primaries).
On the ctank case - when one looks at the oil seal “cavity” it is approximately .42” in depth while the oil seal itself is approximately .25” – Question: When installing the oil seal does one:
A) Install it “FLUSH” against the outer crank case lip, or
B) Push the seal all the way in until it meets the “inner” lip
Also, what “sealant” would one apply to the oil seal when installing (the old seal had some blue glue – lol)
Any and all help is truly appreciated.
Thanks - Staffy

 

[RRRUFF]

Are you talking about the enginge cranch case or are you talking about the transmission output sprocket shaft?

 

[Staffy]

Are you talking about the enginge cranch case or are you talking about the transmission output sprocket shaft?

ENGINE sprocket shaft.
Thanks.

 

[Staffy]

Spoke to S&S this morning, here’s what they had to say
1. Press in the oil seal so it meets the outside of the crank case
2. Put some “red Loctite” on the outer rim of the oil seal before inserting (I made sure I heard that one once over)
Does that sound right? Guess they are the guru’s.

 

[myanoch]

I am switching to a openprimary
I guess i need a new seal an reverse it????
What is the seal number so I may preepurchase it
Thanks

 

[Moespeeds]

Make it flush so it doesn't interfere with the stator install, I use pvc pipe to tap them in. I also use black RTV to seal it. I guess locktite would be fine but I'd imagine it might make it a bitch to get out. In my experience they will weep a tiny bit of oil no matter what you do.

 

[Staffy]

Make it flush so it doesn't interfere with the stator install, I use pvc pipe to tap them in. I also use black RTV to seal it. I guess locktite would be fine but I'd imagine it might make it a bitch to get out. In my experience they will weep a tiny bit of oil no matter what you do.

Hell no to pvc pipe - I was hoping you will mill me a "special" tool to get that sucker in - lol.

After speaking with some friends, also have a different theory - could be the result of incorrect or inadequate crank case venting. Typically there should NOT be a lot of pressure on that seal (it is NOT a pressure seal). So my mind is at work further investigation tonight for sure, will let you know.

 

[Staffy]

I am switching to a openprimary
I guess i need a new seal an reverse it????
What is the seal number so I may preepurchase it
Thanks

It's recommended however you don't HAVE to. If replacing as in my case flip it for a dry primary - spring facing the crank (inward).
Part #'s Both HD and S&S either one will work
HD# 12026B
S&S# 31-4010

 

[Trainguy]

Thanks Staffy for those numbers, might pick one up and put it next to the spare Clutch cable. So far so good on mine:2thumbs: Some initially but none now.

 

[myanoch]

are you sure on the ss #
My shop manuall has 31-4010
don't know if thats an old #
I had called S&S bthey said if I don't replace seal it will leak
must be reversed for open primary
makes sense seal would be backwards

 

[Brew]

Yes, my S&S engine manual also calls for the same as yours myanoch... PN 31-4010
It states,
SSW+ engines are assembled with the sproket shaft oil seal oriented for a wet primary. If you plan to use an open primary you will need to remove the sproket shaft oil seal (PN 31-4010) and replace it with a new seal installed with the lip facing the flywheels. Here's the S&S tech line listed in the book 608-627-8324

 

[myanoch]

another good seal # is timken seal 472164
good quality seal get at any bearing supplier
this also has coating on outer edge to seal when pressed into case

 

[alhall88]

Don't get too bent on reversing the seal. Its the right thing to do for a dry primary but I ran mine for 2 years without changing it because I didn't have a spare at the time. I only reversed it because I just happen to be in there and I had an extra seal.

 

[myanoch]

I did replace it
I looked at the trans and it is reversed
Baker said don't worry
but they said to check with S&S on the motor one?????
Maybe I will do one each way
It bugs me to leave them backwards
Worked in maintenance for 38 years
hard to swallow having seals in wrong

 

[Staffy]

More valuable information

First of all my apologies the correct S&S part # is in fact 31-4010 (I have corrected that in my original post as well – so thank you for pointing that out).

Now on to some more interesting points – So I have an open primary and an oil leak from the sprocket shaft – no big deal, time to replace the oil seal and flip it around while in the processes since it’s an open primary – one would think so…..

I pulled the primary, removed the seal, cleaned up everything, prepped and ready for the new seal install - now waiting for the new seal to arrive. Next day I find a puddle of oil underneath the engine – hum……see its coming from the sprocket shaft bearing (remember – now there’s no seal on that so oil can just flow through). My thoughts, OK this is oil from the upper portion of the engine that’s finding its way into the crank case no big deal will just let it drain – put a drain pan underneath and didn’t think much of it. The next day there’s about a cup of oil in the pan. Something doesn’t seem right. Proceed to drain the crank case about a quart of oil drained out, put that aside and put a fresh pan underneath the crank case. Next day another cup of oil……you know where this is going…..
So it leads me to believe the check valve needs some attention – will open that - clean it out and tap the ball with a small soft metal (brass) punch hoping to seal and sit that sucker in correctly.
Bottom line according to “me” besides the seal requiring “some” attention the leak was more the result of excessive oil accumulating in the crank case probably because of a faulty check valve. I stumbled onto this quite by accident and this is my 2 cents, hope it helps.
-Staffy

 

[myanoch]

Thanks for the tips Staffy