ignition switch question???

Energy One
J

JRosales

Member
To all the New Wire Plus users __ ignition switch question???

I got the switch and I got my wireplus kit.... I have started working on the installation of the switch and broke the tap and only one set screw is holding on to it.. I may try tapping one more screw... Sucks!

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/a...d1296020731-winter-project-dsc02542.jpg?stc=1

I need a little help...

On Jakes How To: Ignition Switch swap to Sportster style

Jakes picture looks like this: http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/bdmridgeback/ReWiring/DSCN0437.jpg

Mine is slightly different, see picture attached.. (green dyno)...
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/a...d1296020821-winter-project-dsc02544.jpg?stc=1

What in the heck do I do with the two wires going to the green dyno????......:confused::confused::confused::confused:

Does the wire plus kit takes care of these two wires attached to the sides?

For you Wire Plus veterans... Can you please provide assistance....? Thanks in advance!

:feedback:
 
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BroadBand

BroadBand

Since late 60's
Do a search on here looking for where other members have just glued it in with high grade sealant of some kind. Reportedly, it works well.
 
P

POPEYE

Active Member
glued mine in,those two wires are your coil wires to your spark plugs,I drilled my from the back side so it come out more on the other side,then glued it,just go real slow when drilling
 
ChopperBrian

ChopperBrian

Member
I kept my stock switch. Just added a relay. All the stock switch does is put ground to the coil on the relay, works great! Still get to use my BDM key.
 
bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
You do not change how anything on the bike is wired or connected, including the coil, when you install the wire-plus kit. The ignition control module suppose power to the coil so nothing with it is changed. The wire-plus supplies power to the ignition and the ignition takes care of the coil.

So all in all, it doesn't matter what coil, ignition, or any accessory for that matter, that you have on the bike.... If it was working with the EHC, it will work when you get done installing the wire-plus.

Don't worry about it, just hook the coil back up just like it was when you took it out.
 
bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
Bfredk said:
I kept my stock switch. Just added a relay. All the stock switch does is put ground to the coil on the relay, works great! Still get to use my BDM key.
Click to expand...

That is fine, and no problem doing it, but down the road, it will fail, and not only do you still have the problematic switch still in the bike, but you added another item (relay) that can fail as well.

The entire point of the wire-plus setup is to eliminate each and every single problematic point in the electrical system and replace it with as few, and simple components as possible.
 
ChopperBrian

ChopperBrian

Member
bdmridgeback said:
That is fine, and no problem doing it, but down the road, it will fail, and not only do you still have the problematic switch still in the bike, but you added another item (relay) that can fail as well.

The entire point of the wire-plus setup is to eliminate each and every single problematic point in the electrical system and replace it with as few, and simple components as possible.
Click to expand...
Very true!!! If it fails I will deal with it. Just saying there are other options. Installing the relay was easy and cost $7
 
bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
Bfredk said:
Very true!!! If it fails I will deal with it. Just saying there are other options. Installing the relay was easy and cost $7
Click to expand...

...but could mean a $100 tow bill down the road. :D

...Or, In my case....I first installed the wire-plus a couple years ago and I did it the week before Biketoberfest... well I made the 4 hour trip up, the rides all weekend... But didn't make the trip home.

My switch failed 3+ hours from home. Luckily I had towing on my Geico account because it was a $550 tow bill one way to my place on a roll back!!!!

After that it was a quest for the best switch money could buy!!!! $39!
An Easy install and $7 is great until a couple hundred $ failure pops up, and you wished you hadn't put all your reliability on a $7 cheap little part after spending $500 on the wire-plus to make it reliable in the first place!!


 
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ChopperBrian

ChopperBrian

Member
I'm not trying to go back and forth with you. After all your the one that sold me my awsome wire plus thank you! But it is just a relay. If it fails I will jump it out or if the switch fails I will jump it out and be on my way. Then when I get home I will order a sportster switch from you!:cheers:
 
bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
Don't take me the wrong way, not trying to argue either, just truing to warn you and save you some cash.


Wire-plus thought about installing a relay to be able to hook the stock switch up to the wire-plus on all installs, but after testing, the contacts in the relay burn out VERY quickly do to the heavy amp load and the extreme vibration.

The vibration causes the contacts to burn fast and carbon up to lead to a fast failure.
The draw on that relay is up there so you need to be sure to use a Potter & brumfield or equivalent 30 amp relay.
 
J

JRosales

Member
Thanks for the feedback. little bit more confirmation needed though

GREAT FEEDBACK GENTLEMEN!

So the two wires that used to go to the old switch, can be cut off, ignored or tied somewhere? (There are four wires on this connection shown in my picture, 2 go to the coil sides and 2 to the original switch) The kit says to put a new wire that goes all the way to the battery, fused (red), one to ignition (white) and the last to light position (blue/red).

I guess the wire plus kit will handle the two coil wires once everything is wired up and eventually make their way back to fire up the coil, right?

Again thanks for the feed back.

By the way... I got the 3rd hole in and was done VERY CAREFULLY AND SUCCESSFULLY.... the switch will not fall anytime soon! :cheers::cheers:


(I got a Kobalt tap bit, and not a chepo! :bang::bang:)
 
BigDogBro1

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Bfredk said:
I kept my stock switch. Just added a relay. All the stock switch does is put ground to the coil on the relay, works great! Still get to use my BDM key.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea, I was just thinking of the same setup just the other night. Selecting a good high current relay and isolate it a bit from vibration should allow it to operate well. Like you said you can always jump it if it's needed. Great to see someone not afraid to try something new.
 
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ChopperBrian

ChopperBrian

Member
Radio Shack 30amp I just stuck it to the fender with 2 sided tape next to wire plus. Good so far but wouldn't hurt to carry a spare I guess.
 
pknowles

pknowles

RETIRED
bdmridgeback said:
Don't take me the wrong way, not trying to argue either, just truing to warn you and save you some cash.


Wire-plus thought about installing a relay to be able to hook the stock switch up to the wire-plus on all installs, but after testing, the contacts in the relay burn out VERY quickly do to the heavy amp load and the extreme vibration.

The vibration causes the contacts to burn fast and carbon up to lead to a fast failure.
The draw on that relay is up there so you need to be sure to use a Potter & brumfield or equivalent 30 amp relay.
Click to expand...
Not trying to jump in the middle but if I need a new switch I would like to get it the same time my wireplus comes in. Let me know.
 
Ray

Ray

Well-Known Member
bdmridgeback said:
...but could mean a $100 tow bill down the road. :D

...Or, In my case....I first installed the wire-plus a couple years ago and I did it the week before Biketoberfest... well I made the 4 hour trip up, the rides all weekend... But didn't make the trip home.

My switch failed 3+ hours from home. Luckily I had towing on my Geico account because it was a $550 tow bill one way to my place on a roll back!!!!

After that it was a quest for the best switch money could buy!!!! $39!
An Easy install and $7 is great until a couple hundred $ failure pops up, and you wished you hadn't put all your reliability on a $7 cheap little part after spending $500 on the wire-plus to make it reliable in the first place!!


Click to expand...
Agrees with Jake, do the 39 buck switch, and being broke down a "long way" from home has a tendencey to tottally ruin week, much less your day. I really like the switch on my scooter after I got used to it, after all it doesn't say big dog on it. That actually has nothing to with how it starts and runs, even though I didn't sleep as well for about a week, nightmares "some noticed the key didn't say big dog" :D .
I wanted the new switch to actually fit in the hole like it was made for it, using the locking ring on the outside. So, I took my dremel and a couple metal cutting bits and cleared the metal inside the cover where the new switch was held in by the locking ring on the outside of the cover. It takes a little time because you have to clear the metal out a little at a time going the through the hole and grinding it, instead of grinding it from the back side, you can't get to it all. My cover was not in perfect shape anyway so I figured I would try it. It came out pretty good as well. Don't try the dremelcutting this on very limited sleep as I did!!!! I still have all my fingers, actually didn't get even a scratch on me,sctached the cover a little place,:eek: but the potential for butchering up your fingers is there!!!!! Pictures of the cover with the switch installed below. That second picture was when it still needed some buffing, all that funky looking stuff buffed out!:up:

If we gat all these EHC issues fixed with the wire plus with Jake's help of course, the only choppers on the side of the road would be that Loco Gringo dude that had the song "Running on Empty" was dedicated too!!!! Listen to me folks, no matter what Jackson Brown says " The scooter stops moving, no matter where you are, when it starts sucking air, instead of gas"!!!!!

Ray :2thumbs:
 

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