07/08 Clutch

[bigdogtech01]

Your '08 does in fact have the "easy pull" clutch. Not only does it have the 9 pack, it also has the longer throw on the Ball and ramp. While I was working at the dealer I replaced a lot of the 9 packs with the older style 12, and kept the easy pull style ball and ramp. This was done for the guys that wanted to spend the $200 on a new clutch pack. For the ones who didn't, I built some performance clutch springs to add to the 9 pack (can also be used in the 12) This worked great, and they never had any more slipping problems.
I would recommend removing the primary cover, and inspecting your clutch along with the throwout bearing. If you need help getting parts, let me know. I can get them, and ship them to you.
-First, check your dome height of the clutch spring using a straight edge and feeler gauges. The spec. is .010" - .050"...It's less apt to slip when height is closer to .050".
-Second, remove 4 bolts (5/15-18) that hold the clutch pressure plate on, in a Chris cross pattern. Inspect the pressure plate for wear. If it has groves in it, it should be replaced. ($50 retail)
-Third, remove all the plates starting with the front fiber, keeping them in order in which they came out.
-Forth, once all plates are removed, measure the fiber thickness using vernier calipers or micrometer. The fiber disks should be no less than .845"
If they are less, they should be replaced. You will also want to inspect for obvious wear/grooves and bluing of the steels. The steels can also warp under extreme heat, so check them on a surface plate, or piece of glass. Should be within .002" flat.
-Fifth, check for play in transmission main shaft. Any play at all, up down/side to side, or in and out, bearings in transmission are worn and should be replaced.
Let us know how you make out. And, as far as the dome height on the spring, that can be adjusted if it's not at the .050". I'll go over that with you when the time comes.

 

[Bowhunter]

Good info Andrew

 

[KaptinAmerika]

9 plates, 12 plates, N plates
Go hydraulic and quit worrying about any of that shit
:roll::roll::lol::lol::lol:

 

[Sven]

-Third, remove all the plates starting with the front fiber, keeping them in order in which they came out.

More like you want to see if this was properly setup so you check your cut directions no matter who put it together.

The steels can also warp under extreme heat, so check them on a surface plate, or piece of glass. Should be within .002" flat.

This where you have zero tools and now pancake stack the steels. Have them all flipped in the one direction. Do you see daylight between plates? Shuffle them like a deck of cards. Did the two outers now somewhere in the stack show a gap? Any gap = Replace - No tools needed.

Bluing is normal wear. If no warp, then it can be reused. This stuff calls for loopholes so you narrow it down to measuring things if you can't find the source to N-Joy :roll:

 

[BigDogBro1]

Good details Andrew.

BTW...The repair manual has some good info on this and more. Every owner should buy one or have access to one if they do their own work.

Generically speaking of course.

 

[BigDogBro1]

9 plates, 12 plates, N plates
Go hydraulic and quit worrying about any of that shit
:roll::roll::lol::lol::lol:

A hydraulic actuated clutch still uses a clutch pack, throw out bearing, push rod and spring and still requires initial setup adjustment if I recall....am I right or wrong here?

 

[Sven]

A hydraulic actuated clutch still uses a clutch pack, throw out bearing, push rod and spring and still requires initial setup adjustment if I recall....am I right or wrong here?

Depends. You need the pack to still call the ball on overall length or overall throw. And no, once the pack is set, it works like brake pads and just pushes the slave cylinder out farther = No brake/no clutch adjustment needed.

Start yelling at my ass wherer you could not figure out the simple mechanics and logical move of the brake pad to caliper idea is zero adjusting at the clutch as well. Make generic sense? BTW, a dedicated video to the runner up-peers on line universal is about ready for upload. It's so basic and generic, you'll see yourself in it. Laughed my ass off making it.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

A hydraulic actuated clutch still uses a clutch pack, throw out bearing, push rod and spring and still requires initial setup adjustment if I recall....am I right or wrong here?

Yes it still uses all the basic clutch components and the setup, as far as push rod length goes, has to be right but with that done you never have to worry about the clutch again. Until the clutch pack wears out that is.
I have over 10000 Miles on mine without any issues. And the best part is, to me, no big nasty cable running down the frame, no adjusting, no broken cable leaving me stranded, and the pull in the lever is easy.
Makes me seriously curious why BD didn't go hydraulic in the first place.

 

[bigdogtech01]

More like you want to see if this was properly setup so you check your cut directions no matter who put it together.

This where you have zero tools and now pancake stack the steels. Have them all flipped in the one direction. Do you see daylight between plates? Shuffle them like a deck of cards. Did the two outers now somewhere in the stack show a gap? Any gap = Replace - No tools needed.

Bluing is normal wear. If no warp, then it can be reused. This stuff calls for loopholes so you narrow it down to measuring things if you can't find the source to N-Joy :roll:

If you stack all the steel plates together like your saying, you will not be able to tell what plate is warped :loony: It's not hard finding a piece of glass and buying a $5 set of feeler gauges. As far as being blued, that's not normal. Maybe on your Mini bike, or Vespa it is, but not on any street bike. Bluing is a sign of slippage, and heat. Just like if you were to have a caliper hang up on a brake rotor, it turns blue and most likely will warp.

A hydraulic actuated clutch still uses a clutch pack, throw out bearing, push rod and spring and still requires initial setup adjustment if I recall....am I right or wrong here?

I believe he's being a smart ass and saying, use Hydraulic drive, not the transmission/clutch setup....

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Yeah, aeema to be a lot of that going here suddenly...:roll::roll::roll:

 

[BigDogBro1]

If you stack all the steel plates together like your saying, you will not be able to tell what plate is warped :loony: It's not hard finding a piece of glass and buying a $5 set of feeler gauges. As far as being blued, that's not normal. Maybe on your Mini bike, or Vespa it is, but not on any street bike. Bluing is a sign of slippage, and heat. Just like if you were to have a caliper hang up on a brake rotor, it turns blue and most likely will warp.



I believe he's being a smart ass and saying, use Hydraulic drive, not the transmission/clutch setup....

Okay...I get it. I was just responding to the text, not the comic sense of it.

A GM Powerglide would require the relocation of the horn however. :up:

Kaptain..
I like that hyd clutch actuation system but haven't heard much on it. I would want to keep my stock controls so the actuator would need to be designed into the side trans pulley cover as heard about at one time. I suppose the master cylinder could cable controlled and mounted elsewhere. I'm happy with the stock system and plan to keep it.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Understood
But a lot of the guys that ride BDs don't want to be mechanics and the easier it can be made for them the happier they are.
Juz sayin

 

[Sven]

If you stack all the steel plates together like your saying, you will not be able to tell what plate is warped :loony:

Looks like you race? Say we had a round in 10 minutes. You could not get up to the line, the bike creeps. You gonna sit there with feeler gauge, a surface pate, then nickel dime your time? Or are you going to stack them and see daylight as the sun ticks down? I'm already setting the nipple fitting on my liquid lever. Oh wait, that was the mechanical way. Anyway...

... a $5 set of feeler gauges. As far as being blued, that's not normal.

... Blue means; Rub both hands together. Which palm stayed cold? So if there is bluing to one surface, 'for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction' to I don't care what surface contact is contact, do you agree?

I do not enter threads that I am not qualified to speak, so I choose my threads carefully. I own a particular brand of bike. This bike was built for drag racing out of the crate. It has a staging light and a rev limiter light in the dash display you can program.

With that said, you can visit the website if you want evidence, but these bikes can make hundreds of passes with the stock clutch parts. I noticed the Bluing as it lay on those plates. To me it says, they still do not creep at the light fandango. :roll:

 

[bigdogtech01]

Looks like you race? Say we had a round in 10 minutes. You could not get up to the line, the bike creeps. You gonna sit there with feeler gauge, a surface pate, then nickel dime your time? Or are you going to stack them and see daylight as the sun ticks down? I'm already setting the nipple fitting on my liquid lever. Oh wait, that was the mechanical way. Anyway...




... Blue means; Rub both hands together. Which palm stayed cold? So if there is bluing to one surface, 'for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction' to I don't care what surface contact is contact, do you agree?

I do not enter threads that I am not qualified to speak, so I choose my threads carefully. I own a particular brand of bike. This bike was built for drag racing out of the crate. It has a staging light and a rev limiter light in the dash display you can program.

With that said, you can visit the website if you want evidence, but these bikes can make hundreds of passes with the stock clutch parts. I noticed the Bluing as it lay on those plates. To me it says, they still do not creep at the light fandango. :roll:

Yes, I used to race in the Prostar class.
First off, how many Big dogs do you see out at the drag strip? I have never seen any. So, time should not matter. Fact is, I am explaining to him how to check his pack the correct way. Baker sells the entire pack anyhow.(steels and fibers) you can not buy one plate at a time.
Have you ever actually worked on one of these bikes? The clutch pack in a Big dog is not the same as that of a drag bike. And even with the high performance clutch setup I had in my drag bike, it's not normal to have Bluing. If your clutch is turning blue, your doing something wrong. You might want to practice some of your launches more. And of what language are you speaking anyhow? half the time I can't even understand WTH your talking about :loony:

 

[JeffM]

Children please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you one and all for your input, i am now a lot smarter that i was an hour ago.

Sven i am a wrench type of guy, infact mechanic is an of chute of my trade/s (Fitter and turner and also boilermaker welder), so i do have a clue but every brand is different and before pulling anything apart i like to know how it works and what to look for.

Andrew i will PM you very soon regarding purchasing said clutch pack, and maybe bearing, that way at least i have it for Justin (justin case).

Thanks again.
Jeff

 

[BigDogBro1]

Get the clutch pack from Energy One. They are the OEM.

 

[JeffM]

Sent an email to Energy one, they replied that they do not make a clutch for Big Dogs.
WTF
Maybe it was the cleaning woman who replied to my enquiry?

 

[Sven]

That pack was reused and raced again

Sven i am a wrench type of guy, infact mechanic is an of chute of my trade/s (Fitter and turner and also boilermaker welder), so i do have a clue but every brand is different and before pulling anything apart i like to know how it works and what to look for.

I hear you loud and clear, Jeff. When I choose a thread, it is between you and me. The others to me are the runner uppers who start in on me. And once they disrupt the tech or shouldn't get involved making comment rather than contribute, I have to literally pull [your], Shewantsitbad, joust so anyone of [those runner uppers] questions me, I have to pull the trousers down and show how your golden shower is going to look after we show you show me... So we can get back to the tech and stop running for the door you get some of your own medicine in a gag line get a grip you runner uppers.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FucYJ0QxvhE]BigClutcHA - YouTube[/ame]

 

[JeffM]

MMM

 

[Brew]

Oh Lord, get the gloves on...:read: