S&S Timing
- Thread starter bear1
- Start date
Moespeeds
Well-Known Member
Timing is adjusted at the cam sensor behind the 3" access cover on the right side of the motor. On the left side there is a large set screw, about 5/8" that you remove that allows you to see the flywheel, which has marks on it. You need a timing light to make the adjustments. It's a PIA, your best bet is to look at the marks where the old or existing cam sensor was locked down, then go from there.
Germanbiker
Active Member
Is is the same on my 08 Pitbull with the 117 cui?
Have the Thunder Heart module here and want to install it properly.
Jochen
Have the Thunder Heart module here and want to install it properly.
Jochen
No Jochen, you have a crank sensor that is not adjustable. All 05 and newer have this now. If you want to adjust your ignition then you need to replace the ignition with something like the Thunderheart Adjustable ignition. There is a "How-To" on this to read up on.
My son has an '01 Husky, 107 S&S. According to the Big Dog manual you have to hook up a timing module before hooking up timing light and adjusting the timing. Do we have to have this module or can I just use the light and time the bike without it. Just wanted to make sure I didn't screw something up.
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
Alternative:
Timing light is best of course but I did my 107 static and running perfect. Just look up static timing on S&S website or any old (pre EFI) Harley manual (same as shovelheads). A little estimating on advance curve since no advance weights to hold open like in the old models but no problems here.
Timing light is best of course but I did my 107 static and running perfect. Just look up static timing on S&S website or any old (pre EFI) Harley manual (same as shovelheads). A little estimating on advance curve since no advance weights to hold open like in the old models but no problems here.
UP to 2001, BD used a dyna 2000 ign, in 2002 they went to a thunder heart system, if you have the dyna IMO it is the better system. As previous post said use the static
procedure, it will get you really close, it is the same procedure for either ign system.
Take the timing plug out on the left side of motor, rotate the motor until the front piston
is at TDC and looking thru the small hole put the "T" mark on the flywheel in the center of the window. If the piston is at TDC and you don't see the T, you are on the exhaust stroke, rotate the motor one more rev and then you should be on the firing or compression stroke. Then go to the other side of motor, make sure key is on and run button pushed and rotate the ign module back and forth, the red light on the module should come on and off as you rotate the ign, with the light on rotate clockwise until the light just goes off, lock the ign down, you should be very close to 32 degrees firing. If you want something other than 32 degrees you will need a dial back timing light to shine thru the hole with the motor running of course, but be prepared for one hell of a oil bath. They make clear plactic plugs to put in the hole to stop the oil coming out, but IMO they are all worthless.
procedure, it will get you really close, it is the same procedure for either ign system.
Take the timing plug out on the left side of motor, rotate the motor until the front piston
is at TDC and looking thru the small hole put the "T" mark on the flywheel in the center of the window. If the piston is at TDC and you don't see the T, you are on the exhaust stroke, rotate the motor one more rev and then you should be on the firing or compression stroke. Then go to the other side of motor, make sure key is on and run button pushed and rotate the ign module back and forth, the red light on the module should come on and off as you rotate the ign, with the light on rotate clockwise until the light just goes off, lock the ign down, you should be very close to 32 degrees firing. If you want something other than 32 degrees you will need a dial back timing light to shine thru the hole with the motor running of course, but be prepared for one hell of a oil bath. They make clear plactic plugs to put in the hole to stop the oil coming out, but IMO they are all worthless.
MARV
Well-Known Member
You can Also put corresponding marks on the motor sproket and inner primary so you can sidestep the oil bath
Has a compufire what? Is it ignition pickup?
I'm a bit confused. If you bought an aftermarket ignition you no longer need the thunderheart module. Unless the thunderheart your referring to is the computer. Take a pic and post it not sure what nd used on the 2000 for ignitions actually
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
I'm a bit confused. If you bought an aftermarket ignition you no longer need the thunderheart module. Unless the thunderheart your referring to is the computer. Take a pic and post it not sure what nd used on the 2000 for ignitions actually
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Last edited:
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Sorry was passenger in my buddies truck any ways it has the original ignition ,original pickup and put a new compu fire duel fire coil on it when you crank it over no spark both terminals at the coil have 12 volts and the red L.E.D. under the cluster stays on and i was under the impression that when you crank the motor the led should flash meaning that its sending a neg signal to the coil which makes it discharge (spark)checked the pickup with ohm meter while cranking it fluctuates so I'm assuming the thunder heart module is getting the signal it needs but is not sending it to the coil but i cant find any info anywhere as to what the resistance should be from the pickup bike ran fine one day next day wouldn't start no spark also with power on if i unplug the harness that goes from the pickup to the module and plug it back in both plugs fire ???????
???
There is a cam sensor in the nosecone or there should be, you said you tested the pickup but state there is no cam sensor so I'm confused. Can you take a pic of the thunder heart you are referring to? So we know exactly what you are talking about?