EHC replacement
- Thread starter Axel
- Start date
Dusty.B
Member
http://www.elektronikbox.de/ebox_g_uk.html
Never seen anyone use a condom for size comparison on an item, of all the things lol....atleast it wasn't used!!
Never seen anyone use a condom for size comparison on an item, of all the things lol....atleast it wasn't used!!
I have a 09 Big Dog K9, The shop is saying that i need to replace my wireing harness (ECH).I m understanding this is common with Big Dog motorcycles.My problem is I dont know where to buy the replacement parts.they are saying they can get me the complete wiring harness for 800 dollars.Will someone please tell me where I can get the correct DOCs, ESC or RIP kit that I need for my bike on line. thank you !Nice intro
welcome from Pa.
Most of us are replacing the ECH with other systems, DOC's ESC or RIP kits that are available now. The ECH has memory and requires constant tendering, these units that I mentioned are plug n play with their own wiring harness that plugs into the existing wiring throughout the bike.
Dusty.B
Member
Docs esc is available from his website deadonecustoms.com & t he rip kit I think Curtis has at wildsteedworx.com both are less than 800 I believe. & you can find some stock ehcs floating around if you just want to replace it with a stock one. I've got 70k miles on my stock ehc in our ridgeback. If you call either of those guys they will help you out with getting back up and running!
BWG56
Guru
Doc's ECS is $675 on his website and all the controls are the same as OEM, its plug and play with great support if you need it, from here and from DOC, (Jeff).
Axel
Active Member
...I tried matches before, but nobody knows it anymore...
Yes, the M-Unit is a nice box and almost similar to my D-Box (http://www.elektronikbox.de/ebox_d_uk.xhtml) The M-Unit is about 3 times bigger compare to the D-Box but works ok. You might find infos about it on their Motogadget website.
GDOG_PITBULL
Well-Known Member
Axel
Active Member
Hi GDOG_PITBULL,
Yes you are right! The M-Unit makes some problems with the starter output of the box what does sometimes not start the engine in cold weather and switch. It should drive a starter up to 30 Ampere but the most engineers put an extra 30 Ampere solenoid between box and bike However, with an extra solenoid it works ok.
I can not say any other negative things about the box. Only the local service from the factory here is more than lousy. Their telephone service time is only every wednesday from 1 to 3 pm (...yes no joke !!!) and they are veeery slow when it comes to a change of a defect unit. That´s why I started with my own box some years ago, but this is an other story...
I´m also not sure, if I should use the 40 Ampere or the 90 Ampere highside switch in my clone. I´ll make an infrared photo when the EHC clone is ready. I still wait for the boards from the pcb company...
All the best!
Axel
Yes you are right! The M-Unit makes some problems with the starter output of the box what does sometimes not start the engine in cold weather and switch. It should drive a starter up to 30 Ampere but the most engineers put an extra 30 Ampere solenoid between box and bike However, with an extra solenoid it works ok.
I can not say any other negative things about the box. Only the local service from the factory here is more than lousy. Their telephone service time is only every wednesday from 1 to 3 pm (...yes no joke !!!) and they are veeery slow when it comes to a change of a defect unit. That´s why I started with my own box some years ago, but this is an other story...
I´m also not sure, if I should use the 40 Ampere or the 90 Ampere highside switch in my clone. I´ll make an infrared photo when the EHC clone is ready. I still wait for the boards from the pcb company...
All the best!
Axel
Axel
Active Member
Hi,
...Just a small report: I got the pcb boards yesterday and have made 2 sample boards. I think I´ll have the time to check the electrical functions within this weekend ( if my 2 small terrorists will let me work...). I attach a pic of the board. It is still not potted and there is no connector steel plate mounted what give more stability to the d-sub but it´s already a bit sexy I think ;-)
I´ll check it out in 2 weeks on a BD bike and keep you inform about the process.
All the best !
Axel
...Just a small report: I got the pcb boards yesterday and have made 2 sample boards. I think I´ll have the time to check the electrical functions within this weekend ( if my 2 small terrorists will let me work...). I attach a pic of the board. It is still not potted and there is no connector steel plate mounted what give more stability to the d-sub but it´s already a bit sexy I think ;-)
I´ll check it out in 2 weeks on a BD bike and keep you inform about the process.
All the best !
Axel
Attachments
Axel
Active Member
Hi Lorenzo,
Yes, it´s not rocket science. Just connect pin A19 from the d-sub to 12 Volt (A3), what will switch on the ignition. A 10 Ampere fuse between might help in case of problems. For running the starter motor you will need a bridge between A3 (...or + 12 Volt) to A1 and B45/B29. I attach the schematic. However, it´s in this case a very "old skool way" without horn, headlight, rear light and flashers...
By the way, I like the pic what I found from an other threat of this forum. It´s a really nice old style schematic and it should fit on a beermat
Have fun !
All the best!
AXEL
Yes, it´s not rocket science. Just connect pin A19 from the d-sub to 12 Volt (A3), what will switch on the ignition. A 10 Ampere fuse between might help in case of problems. For running the starter motor you will need a bridge between A3 (...or + 12 Volt) to A1 and B45/B29. I attach the schematic. However, it´s in this case a very "old skool way" without horn, headlight, rear light and flashers...
By the way, I like the pic what I found from an other threat of this forum. It´s a really nice old style schematic and it should fit on a beermat
Have fun !
All the best!
AXEL
Attachments
Lorenzo
Active Member
Will this way still be able to use key to start?Hi Lorenzo,
Yes, it´s not rocket science. Just connect pin A19 from the d-sub to 12 Volt (A3), what will switch on the ignition. A 10 Ampere fuse between might help in case of problems. For running the starter motor you will need a bridge between A3 (...or + 12 Volt) to A1 and B45/B29. I attach the schematic. However, it´s in this case a very "old skool way" without horn, headlight, rear light and flashers...
By the way, I like the pic what I found from an other threat of this forum. It´s a really nice old style schematic and it should fit on a beermat
Have fun !
All the best!
AXEL
Axel
Active Member
Hi Lorenzo,
Yes, with an aditional 30 ampere relay and a 10 Ampere relay where you drive the coil with 12 Volt, what is switched by the key switch. I don´t know the exact current what goes though contact A1 and the current to the compression reliefs what are connected to B29 and B45 but I think, that a 30 Ampere relay could be enough. I attach a rough drawing with the 2 relay and a 2 way key switch. Sorry, it´s a bit lousy but I just have my first coffee at morning...
You will need to change the key switch against a 2 way switch.
Have fun !
All the best!
Axel
Yes, with an aditional 30 ampere relay and a 10 Ampere relay where you drive the coil with 12 Volt, what is switched by the key switch. I don´t know the exact current what goes though contact A1 and the current to the compression reliefs what are connected to B29 and B45 but I think, that a 30 Ampere relay could be enough. I attach a rough drawing with the 2 relay and a 2 way key switch. Sorry, it´s a bit lousy but I just have my first coffee at morning...
You will need to change the key switch against a 2 way switch.
Have fun !
All the best!
Axel
Attachments
Last edited:
Axel
Active Member
...I just had a bit time for a test today and think it´s time for a small "report". Everything on the board is working on my desk in the workshop . The current consumption is 36 uA when the key is in off position. This follow that the battery will loose 1 Ah in 1157 days or about 3 years, what is far below the self discharge of the battery. However, we´ll try it in a bike next week and will see if there are any surprises. For my opinion everything is a bit to good for the first shot... I´ll keep you inform.
All the best!
Axel
. The current consumption is 36 uA when the key is in off position. This follow that the battery will loose 1 Ah in 1157 days or about 3 years, what is far below the self discharge of the battery. However, we´ll try it in a bike next week and will see if there are any surprises. For my opinion everything is a bit to good for the first shot... I´ll keep you inform.All the best!
Axel
