Electrical Problems

[tcrowelljr]

Had some time last night to troubleshoot more. The headlight is good and wiring is good. No power to headlight. Removed the tank and disconnected the circuits one by one. Brake lights worked when i disconnected the RH controls. No other changes with other circuits. I'm guessing I need to look at the RH board now...

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Had some time last night to troubleshoot more. The headlight is good and wiring is good. No power to headlight. Removed the tank and disconnected the circuits one by one. Brake lights worked when i disconnected the RH controls. No other changes with other circuits. I'm guessing I need to look at the RH board now...

Sounds like it might have fried the Right Hand PCB board. Does your headlight work now as well? What about the left blinker and High/Low? Did the click noise of that Relay go away as well when you unplugged it?

If all is working now besides the right hand PCB we can do a quick test. You have the can jump the pins with the connector unplugged to confirm it is indeed the board.

First I would jump the Right Blinker confirm that activates it. To jump it you just have to use two leads or a paper clip and have one on the ground wire (black) and the other on the right blinker command (Brown)

Second, I would jump the RUN (Red to Black)and make sure the ignition module turns on and then you can jump the start button to see what happens (green to black).

If it works there it's time for a new PCB but you can double check your connection as well but considering what lead to this I think it was fried.

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[tcrowelljr]

Sounds like it might have fried the Right Hand PCB board. Does your headlight work now as well? What about the left blinker and High/Low? Did the click noise of that Relay go away as well when you unplugged it?

If all is working now besides the right hand PCB we can do a quick test. You have the can jump the pins with the connector unplugged to confirm it is indeed the board.

First I would jump the Right Blinker confirm that activates it. To jump it you just have to use two leads or a paper clip and have one on the ground wire (black) and the other on the right blinker command (Brown)

Second, I would jump the RUN (Red to Black)and make sure the ignition module turns on and then you can jump the start button to see what happens (green to black).

If it works there it's time for a new PCB but you can double check your connection as well but considering what lead to this I think it was fried.

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Still no headlight and click doesn't go away. Sounds like the RIP is activating the circuit, but nothing happens. All blinkers work. Bright/Dim produces the same click, but no power to the headlight.

The bike will start and run when we use the slam button. So we are getting power to the ignition and the run button must work. It does have the Daytona ignition, original Thunderheart died on me before the ECU did.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Still no headlight and click doesn't go away. Sounds like the RIP is activating the circuit, but nothing happens. All blinkers work. Bright/Dim produces the same click, but no power to the headlight.

Right blinker is working too?

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[tcrowelljr]

Right blinker is working too?

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Yes, right blinker works

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Yes, right blinker works

Strange one...

If you unplug the headlight and the right at the same time does the clicking go away?

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[tcrowelljr]

Strange one...

If you unplug the headlight and the right at the same time does the clicking go away?

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I will try that tonight.

 

[tcrowelljr]

I'm thinking part of the PCB fried. It all started when I hit the start button. Not sure why the headlight doesn't work though...

 

[Th3InfamousI]

I'm thinking part of the PCB fried. It all started when I hit the start button. Not sure why the headlight doesn't work though...

Possible..but if it's truly the right hand PCB the clicking would go away when unplugged. So I'm wondering if it's a combination of two items or more?

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[tcrowelljr]

Possible..but if it's truly the right hand PCB the clicking would go away when unplugged. So I'm wondering if it's a combination of two items or more?

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I know. Not making sense. Can't find a pinched wire or loose ground.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

I know. Not making sense. Can't find a pinched wire or loose ground.

Well my concern is if you unplug all the controls (left and right)and headlight and it still clicking it might be a bad Relay in the unit due to the massive amount of current that starter drew for the extended period of time.



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[tcrowelljr]

Well my concern is if you unplug all the controls (left and right)and headlight and it still clicking it might be a bad Relay in the unit due to the massive amount of current that starter drew for the extended period of time.



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With the controls unplugged, there will be no buttons connected to cause the click.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

With the controls unplugged, there will be no buttons connected to cause the click.

Unless the problem is the Relay it self. So it's worthwhile to confirm that the clicking goes away.

IF the clicking goes away you can start jumping pins in the hand control to isolate the issue. Once you start jumping the pins you can see when or if you hear the clicking start again. If you don't hear it and everything works then you know it's the PCB's and the right has to be bought with the left anyways. But you want to be sure it's the PCB boards and the not the RIP itself. New boards are about $200 and a new module is about $250 so need to be 100% sure before you reach back into the wallet

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[tcrowelljr]

Unless the problem is the Relay it self. So it's worthwhile to confirm that the clicking goes away.

IF the clicking goes away you can start jumping pins in the hand control to isolate the issue. Once you start jumping the pins you can see when or if you hear the clicking start again. If you don't hear it and everything works then you know it's the PCB's and the right has to be bought with the left anyways. But you want to be sure it's the PCB boards and the not the RIP itself. New boards are about $200 and a new module is about $250 so need to be 100% sure before you reach back into the wallet

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The clicking only happens when i hit the dim/bright button, run and start buttons. One faint click when i hit the buttons. On the run button, one click for run, if i hit it again, nothing and one click for off.

 

[Mr. Wright]

With the controls unplugged, there will be no buttons connected to cause the click.

I think I might be coming through there Saturday evening, if you want me to stop by.

 

[tcrowelljr]

So, it is possible to be the module? I still have to find what caused the circuit breaker to pop.

 

[tcrowelljr]

I think I might be coming through there Saturday evening, if you want me to stop by.

Sure, let me know. It would be great to meet!

 

[Mr. Wright]

Sure, let me know. It would be great to meet!

PM me your number

 

[Th3InfamousI]

The clicking only happens when i hit the dim/bright button, run and start buttons. One faint click when i hit the buttons. On the run button, one click for run, if i hit it again, nothing and one click for off.

So no clicking when everything is plugged in, just when you hit the button?

If that's the case I would say the module is good and agree with your assessment on the PCB. But still odd the headlight isnt working and you said no power, I assume you put a meter on it and confirmed 0 volts?

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[Mr. Wright]

Sound like a bad ground somewhere, and it's feeding back through somewhere to make contact.