Voltage Regulator

[Randy Segan]

Skip past this post. Warning, it's a Sven Rant:

Shunt VR:
Here is where the 32a rated stator applies. It also applies to a wet type battery or the conventional battery. Simply take 32 and divide by half. Magnetically speaking, N and S are two sweeps @ 360°, meaning, 16v of AC shoots up one wire, and 16v shoots up the other wire. Who would have guessed that stator has one continuous wire in and the other end coming out. 16+16 = 32.

DTT Sequence:
And not in that order. The AC alternates, so a one way diode captures the pulse up, and stops the 16 from reversing. It now holds 16 in a capacitor. The shunt system has to reach a T-Threshold. Once that 14v range reaches that threshold, it T-Triggers the excess. That excess 1.??v has another diode path and this now D-Discharges the excess to ground. That's what a shunt regulator does. Think of a toilet flush. T-Trigger is the handle. T-Threshold is the 1.6gal sitting behind you. D-Discharge is heading down the sewer once you Trigger the handle.

Trigger = Flip is holding the volt from reversing direction out of the capacitor.
Threshold = What is held in capacitor(16) by flip.
Discharge = Flop is to send the excess to ground when flip no longer can magnetically hold itself down, it flips back and starts all over again like the sequence of the toilet's movement. Make SvenSense to me in the very basics of reverse engineering in SvenThink.


Battery:
At idle, the reg kicks in and feeds the 14+v at the volt meter. This is how you can tell both 16's are putting out equally. This too tells you the DTT machine can feed the taillight/headlight/ign/radio, at that high a voltage(14+) and at that low an rpm (idle).
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Black Series VR:
Here is where you can use any 32a stator, but upgrade to a maintenance free battery. This type BS (battery acid supplied) is all the liquid she wrote. Shunt boils the water out so you keep up with the water level maintenance via screw caps. This DTT box however, will send the excess voltage to ground once the free type battery reaches a T-Threshold. This DTT box more or less keeps the free type battery from boiling out, i.e., E= Heat. Therefore, the 16's are being send directly to ground until the battery drops down in voltage, then the DTT comes back in play like a shunt, meaning, T-Triggers the 16 back on line and then feeds the battery again in the 14v range = 12.8v is the battery voltage sitting static; being fully charged.
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Chrome Billet Series VR:
This DTT machine more or less replicates the Black Series.

Recap:
Shunt reg's keep receiving 16v in and there is a continuous mixing of water and acid thru this type heat (champagne bubble size) cycle. Water needs to be replenished using this type battery-to-shunt style DTT machine design.
Compu-Fire type can redirect 16v to ground: once a T-Threshold is met at the battery. This is so the life cycled fluid does not cook out.

That's how you buy said Battery style-to DTT Box- to Stator.

I have never really understood it before, but that was awesome the way that you have it all lined out in here. I wonder if that is one of the reasons that I have a problem with mine all the time.
I travel for work a most of the time I don't take my bike with me unless I'm heading somewhere in the south, lol. but every time I come home I have to buy another battery because it don't stay up. and this is the fist time that I'm having to get a voltage regulator. the problem with it is that at idle is does great but when you throttle it, it pegs out the meter and is over charging. the mechanic that I usually go to said that was the problem. I haven't rode it since then. not until I replace that. I put s trickle charger on it and once a week or every other week I start it. A buddy of mine found one on ebay for about $30-$40 and it has been working fine. but I'm a little leery about that because they don't tell what they go on. but they have them with the amp and all that. I know a whole more about what they do now than I ever have. I really appreciate the info

 

[Sven]

Randy,
There are 3 basic parts to the charging system:
1. AC output: The stator/rotor makes AC. Both wires put out a 'balance' out of each wire. That one wrapped wire around those lugs, it's coated so when it lays on top of each other and is buried over, there is no contact to each layer. E has a tendency to create Heat. If say there is a hot spot in the windings, the coating melts, the wire now contacts the other bare wire and creates a resistance of flow. So one magnetic sweep is 16, the other sweep is 11 say. The battery is going to put out a new balance, 11 + 16 / by 2 = 13.5. That's now 13 up each wire. Therefore, when you check with a volt meter and read something lower than 14+v at the battery, you can decipher if it's the stator that has a charging problem.

2. DTT Box: E is going to find the quickest path, so when the box fails, AC travels over the surface of a broken resistor, diode, capacitor, or the many parts used on that motherboard; to work the flipflop to ground. AC now travels to ground via the battery having the ground. So now AC finds the wire out of the DTT box and that AC is no longer being regulated, but sending 16v in the constant. That boils the water. The bubble does the Hercules Push against the middle of the plate and expands the material apart with a big hot bubble = HEAT cooked out the battery. Therefore, this box no longer can DTT in the flipflop and shows 15+v at the meter. The acid pushes that water vapor out of the battery vent and you do not want a spark near that smell.

3. ChemRE: The whole point to keeping the battery charged is to keep the acid suspended in the water. Once that separates, the chemical reaction sends the acid to cling to the plates and stops current flow in this type of resistance. Remember: magnetism, you cannot separate the chemRe from the heat. That's when you see the white powder on the ground side of the battery post. That chemRe is a constant when E is present. So it may read a surface 12v, but when the demand calls and a plate is Chem'd, there are no amps (push) to turn the starter motor. Therefore, it's all about the battery prep, the chemRe well mixed, and how long it lasts is up to the charging maintenance keeping the chemixed.
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Buying a battery charger:
When reading a battery, there is a way to match (balance) that battery output to the charger's input.
Say you read a battery as a 12N12a. 12 means 12v, N means the posts placement (I think), 12a means the amp output.
The formula for a charger is to move the decimal point over to the right of the amp number. It would now read 1.4a.
When you purchase a charger for said battery, you look at the tag behind the charger and look for the amp rating.
The charger must read 1.5a so it meets or exceeds 1.4a. You cannot buy a 1.2a charger for a 1.4a rated battery we perform formula.
So charging theory wise, formula says; when using a BS (battery acid supplied) battery for prep, wait at least an hour to let the liquid soak into the plates, then "literally" charge the battery for 12 hours with a 1.2a charger. With a 12N14a battery, you literally charge the battery for 14 hours, using (at least) a 1.4a charger.
Ideal battery surface charge is 12.8v, or specific gravity, we use that tool to see if the mix is perfect; chasing that same number.
NOTE: Can you use a 10a charger on such a small battery? 10a says a faster heat process. So if you monitor the surface heat of the battery case, not cause it to be so hot as to can't touch it... Get it? Heat-Heat-Heat is the enemy so monitor the cooking process.

Make sense?

 

[Randy Segan]

Randy,
There are 3 basic parts to the charging system:
1. AC output: The stator/rotor makes AC. Both wires put out a 'balance' out of each wire. That one wrapped wire around those lugs, it's coated so when it lays on top of each other and is buried over, there is no contact to each layer. E has a tendency to create Heat. If say there is a hot spot in the windings, the coating melts, the wire now contacts the other bare wire and creates a resistance of flow. So one magnetic sweep is 16, the other sweep is 11 say. The battery is going to put out a new balance, 11 + 16 / by 2 = 13.5. That's now 13 up each wire. Therefore, when you check with a volt meter and read something lower than 14+v at the battery, you can decipher if it's the stator that has a charging problem.

2. DTT Box: E is going to find the quickest path, so when the box fails, AC travels over the surface of a broken resistor, diode, capacitor, or the many parts used on that motherboard; to work the flipflop to ground. AC now travels to ground via the battery having the ground. So now AC finds the wire out of the DTT box and that AC is no longer being regulated, but sending 16v in the constant. That boils the water. The bubble does the Hercules Push against the middle of the plate and expands the material apart with a big hot bubble = HEAT cooked out the battery. Therefore, this box no longer can DTT in the flipflop and shows 15+v at the meter. The acid pushes that water vapor out of the battery vent and you do not want a spark near that smell.

3. ChemRE: The whole point to keeping the battery charged is to keep the acid suspended in the water. Once that separates, the chemical reaction sends the acid to cling to the plates and stops current flow in this type of resistance. Remember: magnetism, you cannot separate the chemRe from the heat. That's when you see the white powder on the ground side of the battery post. That chemRe is a constant when E is present. So it may read a surface 12v, but when the demand calls and a plate is Chem'd, there are no amps (push) to turn the starter motor. Therefore, it's all about the battery prep, the chemRe well mixed, and how long it lasts is up to the charging maintenance keeping the chemixed.
________________________________________________
Buying a battery charger:
When reading a battery, there is a way to match (balance) that battery output to the charger's input.
Say you read a battery as a 12N12a. 12 means 12v, N means the posts placement (I think), 12a means the amp output.
The formula for a charger is to move the decimal point over to the right of the amp number. It would now read 1.4a.
When you purchase a charger for said battery, you look at the tag behind the charger and look for the amp rating.
The charger must read 1.5a so it meets or exceeds 1.4a. You cannot buy a 1.2a charger for a 1.4a rated battery we perform formula.
So charging theory wise, formula says; when using a BS (battery acid supplied) battery for prep, wait at least an hour to let the liquid soak into the plates, then "literally" charge the battery for 12 hours with a 1.2a charger. With a 12N14a battery, you literally charge the battery for 14 hours, using (at least) a 1.4a charger.
Ideal battery surface charge is 12.8v, or specific gravity, we use that tool to see if the mix is perfect; chasing that same number.
NOTE: Can you use a 10a charger on such a small battery? 10a says a faster heat process. So if you monitor the surface heat of the battery case, not cause it to be so hot as to can't touch it... Get it? Heat-Heat-Heat is the enemy so monitor the cooking process.

Make sense?

Yes! Yeah it makes a lot of sense when it is broke down like that. You did awesome iv the wording you used. Very understandable. I really appreciate the time you took to explain it. It will help me when finding the one that will match the battery I have. Maybe I can stop buying batteries. Thx