I was really feeling the switch was the problem so i tested it with an ohm meter and it seemed to test good.
After how many years copper meets arc with said wall switch in said house? Test good tests goodenuff for me. So if I may interject a few mental notes:
1. Leaf Blower - in hand, turn it off, move the line, pick the blower back up an nothing. Walk to the wall and note plug is still secure from A to B. Split the blower apart, check on/off switch and checks good. Go to the commutator and sand the copper clean with fine grit sandpaper if not scotch-brite. Assemble blower and toggled switch. Return to the backyard and blow away.
2. Motorhome Ground Wire - Have the engine cover off, pour fuel down the carb, turn the key and no start, but an arc made that caught out of the corner of my eye. It was the frame strap to engine. Remove ground strap, file both contact points till I see fresh metal(s). Engine fires right off.
Take my empirical knowledge over to here on this thread, walks me up to the key switch and sanda contact points with a straight edge razor. No wait, OP says switch is good. Unless I make a visual and black arc be the clue. I'd then find said strap from frame to engine, engine to battery post. I'd then find the end of said strap or cable to engine/frame. I'd then hold the starter switch and aim the temp gun at the ring of said strap/cable, if not touch with said anal thermometer, or finger it for the 2nd degree fell of it. Take said meter, set to ohm and find ground [wire] on the key switch, and ground both frame/engine with the other meter probe. Set meter to 20-volts, with key on, ground probe(-) to frame, and probe each wire off the key switch to note voltage. With meter still set at 20v, probe (+) to the hot side of the battery, neg-probe to hot wire of starter relay.
I guess it's time to upgrade!
