Starter problem pls help!

Energy One

Martin_es1988

New Member
Hi guys, I ve got 2004 mastiff. Just bought new battery and everything works after the replacement. After 3 days I wanted to go for a ride.When I turned the key, controls works,light and speedometer too. So I pushed the starter button and just click and thats all. Do you know what is the problem? it looks like low battery, but It cant be.
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Couple things to do first. First let's check the starter. Pull the wire off the solenoid, and run a jumper wire from the battery and see if the starter turns over.
Disconnect the battery and pull he cover off the back of the solenoid and clean the contract. While you have the cover off, check the solder connection on the inside of the solenoid housing, where the start wire connects.
Then we will go from there.
 

Martin_es1988

New Member
thank u! But I am not sure If I can do it without the pictures I know where is starter but I have no idea where is jumper wire and what contact I have to clean. Sorry mate. I can speak english fluently, but those technical terms are out of my league
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
So I pushed the starter button and just click... it looks like low battery, but It cant be.
It can't be if the battery is fully charged. How was the battery bought? Did you have to add acid to a dry sealed battery? No?
Battery came fully charged? And can you see what year it was made? Some dates are melted into the case of the battery.

After 3 days of riding that says your starter is OK, but your battery is circling back again to what is the static voltage reading? 12.8v is Ideal. 12.4 it might click. Want to see a bad battery? Hold the volt meter on the battery, hit the starter and watch the volts drop down to 8v. It's the battery... no wait...

... Charge the battery. Hold the meter on the battery again, start the bike and let it idle. 14.2v says it's not the stator/rotor when idling.
 

Martin_es1988

New Member
It can't be if the battery is fully charged. How was the battery bought? Did you have to add acid to a dry sealed battery? No?
Battery came fully charged? And can you see what year it was made? Some dates are melted into the case of the battery.

After 3 days of riding that says your starter is OK, but your battery is circling back again to what is the static voltage reading? 12.8v is Ideal. 12.4 it might click. Want to see a bad battery? Hold the volt meter on the battery, hit the starter and watch the volts drop down to 8v. It's the battery... no wait...

... Charge the battery. Hold the meter on the battery again, start the bike and let it idle. 14.2v says it's not the stator/rotor when idling.
yes , I put liquid into the battery. Battery has 12,9v if I remeber. But like I said. Everything works. Just starter looks like not connected with battery. Only click of the button and thats all.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
That's a carb overflow hose/balance tube combo. (1)Float sticks open it dumps fuel to the ground, not into the engine. (2)So there is no vacuum when the fuel empties inside the carb, it's vented to atmosphere. Find the nipple usually found on the bottom of the carb. Run the black hose behind the farthest steel lined hose; away from the exhaust pipe; and let the end hang between the trans and engine. Zip-tie the hose to that steel line.


Let's walk the steps prepping a new BS type battery into service.
1. You buy a new battery it comes with acid. BS stands for Battery 'acid' Supplied.
2. You let the acid soak the pleats in the battery for at least an hour before any other move. More is better.
3. You find a battery charger that matches the amp hour. Formula goes: 12N12a reads; 12v, N for battery post positions, 12a is to move the decimal point over one, and you now know what minimum charger you need.
4. You have a 12N14a battery, then you take your 1.4a rated charger, and charge the battery for literally 14 hours; is the formula.
5. You grab car jumper cables, a high beam head light side of the filament, the brake light filament of a taillight, so as to drain the battery down to 1 or 2v.
6. You charge this back up to its rated hours and do this battery drainage 2 more times. Charge the battery up the 3rd time and now it's ready for years of service... not that 2 year shit, pour and service. You poured and you serviced under an hour?... oh shit say you didn't. Oh well, live and learn.
7. Yes you can use a 1.4a charger on a 12a battery, but you can't use a 1.2a charger on a 14a battery. You just cut the time down on the hour rating, but you never will get the 14a battery fully charged with a lower rated charger.
8. Yes you can use a 10a car charger, but the trick is to keep a feel on the battery case. It cooks the acid with water and like water and oil you want it blended together as much as possible. Thus the recharging hours of mixing. Like champagne bubbles off a glass is the size you want bubbling out of the pleats. Cook it too long and the bubbles enlarge, rip up the pleats, separate the plates... is why the rated charger keeping the bubbles small for hours on end.

Remember is not the answer. Where is your digital test meter? The battery went down or not? Process of elimination. Battery/button/relay/motor. Not the button, nor the relay, because you can make the relay click with the button. Battery or starter motor is left. Moves meter piece next to if I remember piece... Checkmate.
 
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