Loading and tie down

[The idea guy]

Sooo.....
I am taking a road trip to pick up my first chopper (2009 K9). I drive a Ram 2500 with a 8 foot bed. With the tailgate down that gives me 9-1/2 feet. The K9 is 9 feet. So I’m not worried about fit. It’s the loading and tie down part that Im looking for suggestions and warnings on.
My thought is to locate a business with a loading dock around 38 inches high and roll the bike in without any ramps being used. Then possibly strapping it through the rear wheel and triple tree with two straps off the handle bars to keep it upright.
So if any of you have already done this, please tell me what parts of this plan are a bad idea and how you would do it instead.

thanks in advance for any input you are willing to give.

 

[Sven]

That, or a super inclined driveway with ramp. Or, about 5 guys tag teaming a straight up push on flat land with a ramp. Longer the ramp the more incline made. I would not drive it up. Say 3 guys now. You on the push up is the flat land/short ramp scenario. Guy at rear us [easier] pulling the rear tire up, guy on the bed is pulling the front wheel from the top, you are about to tag the bottom of the frame as you go up.

That says, I have a shaved 45° tip that is a 2x4 laid on the ramp, guy at the rear wheel is going to have to roll it up the wood plank to raise the frame at that peak point. Or, two guys lift the back of the ramp to clear the frame and it's up on the bed... shaking that whole truck until you guys stop moving around on the truck.

Something like a bag of lint free wiping towels from Costco. This goes over the frame neck, the fork tubes, anyplace the ties hooks or the nylon hooped on a painted frame tube, so as not to cause it to rub and scratch. The bounce of the tailgate is probably first so that has to be locked to the bumper with a tie thru the hinge arm on both sides. That stops the gate, but next is to X the ties thru the rear rim and not take a hook to a spoke or a cast arm [if applies]... The rear is done.

No matter the mile, keep looking for the front wheel not to flop from one side or the other. Might want to take a 2x4 as a wheel chuck that is from one end of the truck bed to the wheel, and the second 2x kissing the other end of the side of the bed to front wheel. That or tie the wheel with a loop and hook the one side, then hoop the other tie thru the rim and tie it off on the other side of the bed.

Ideal is to have the hooks at the corner of the bed at the front, tie that one side of the handlebar to the hook, then tie the other side of the bar down to the hook. The higher the hook off the floor, the more unstable is the front wheel to flop. You could tie the rear of the front rim twice so you can lace the rest of the tie thru the towel covered down-frame-tubes and have the front wheel from moving off center... no 2x... just keep looking for 'front wheel flop.'

Side stand is up because it's going to bounce with the suspension. That, or aim the front wheel at that left corner of the bed, side stand down, drag back wheel to the other side of the bed, tie the back wheel down, tie all straps to the left, one strap to the right and will it bounce and hammer a hole in the bed? Your choice.

 

[FrankBDPS]

Rent a trailer it's much safer loading. Getting a 600 pound bike in and out of a pickup is not easy and it is also dangerous. Good luck what ever you do.

Got any pics of the bike?

 

[1 B.M.F.]

U-Haul..

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Ok, your issue with the K-9 and the truck is a good chunk of weight is placed on the tailgate not the bed if you go in front wheel first.
Driving up is not bad except the tailgate part.
I have 10 foot ramps that I used to drive my original chopper (just over 8ft) into a ford F150 that I built a custom cap for that I used as storage etc for my bike. I could close the door after the bike was strapped down and pulled in a inch. (snug fit).
My ramps were set to that I had space to put my feet down on the way in and out of the trailer.

I'd agree with everyone else - rent/borrow a trailer. MUCH easier to load and unload.

 

[Unsprung]

Trailer it, these bikes are heavy and I wouldn’t chance it. Also check out photos by Mr Wright on a good tie down using the frame under the seat. I use his idea and it works great.

 

[Mr. Wright]

I agree with Mike, to much weight on the tail gate. Rent a trailer. U-haul has them with a wheel chock already in it. If you don't go that route go to harbor freight and buy a wheel chock, they're cheap and work well. Now for the tie down this is a very important when you're tying down the chopper.
First rule the bike up into the wheel chock.

Using loop straps tie around the frame at the battery box, mid frame. Then you going to pull them straps slightly forward but mostly down. This will pull the bike into the chalk.

I crisscrossed my straps just to make them shorter. Then I took a scissor jack, that I also got at harbor freight, and put it underneath the frame. Jack it up so it makes the straps taunt.

Tying it like this will save your fork seals and bushings.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Trailer it, these bikes are heavy and I wouldn’t chance it. Also check out photos by Mr Wright on a good tie down using the frame under the seat. I use his idea and it works great. View attachment 85193View attachment 85194

That's funny, you just type faster than I do

 

[HMAN]

When you buy yourself a trailer, go the extra mile and install a Biker Bar by B&W Hitches. You wont be sorry. No more straps needed. Oh, and welcome from Kansas.

 

[EZ Dog]

I agree with Hman. No straps is so quick and easy.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Sven]

One would tool up with a flat lift for tire service and transport, a ramp built to take the load. One would also tool up with an adjustable blade type chuck stand so you have the option for a narrow rim, to a fatboy front wheel. That chuck has 4 rubber ends so it's portable, not an ideal bolt down type, but more the pickup/trailer/garage type money well spent. A shit load of tie strap combinations, bag of anal rags for the paint and chrome you are going to use anyway to clean and polish.

Never want to tarp the bike when transporting. Cover at night parked in a motel, sure. Flapping will patina the paint like bare ties wrapped around the paint. Get an asshole judge like me chasing 'patina' points, the lint frees could have trophy'd by a point.

Think fender washer so the 8x12 laid down on the bed floor can have the flat-jack unload the tailgate weight on the 8x.
No insurance for the trailer buy/storage/one time use[less] money spent for a one way failed bearing, flat tire, flip the trailer; where it takes a man to load a bike on a pickup.

 

[The idea guy]

I really appreciate all of your input and advice. I had considered renting at U-Haul. Unfortunately their bike trailer is only 7 feet. The K9 is 9 feet so that rules that out. I am completely opposed to using ramps, there are way to many pics and videos of bikes being dumped of ramps. Standard height for truck loading docks is 48 inches. My truck bed is 38 inches. I have 9 inch ramps that I can back my truck up onto. That would leave a 1inch drop from the dock into my truck bed. I’m good with that. I want to back the bike onto the truck putting the rear tire towards the cab and the front tire on the tailgate. I like the suggestion to put a jack under the bike to transfer weight off of the tailgate. I have one for my Harley so that’s a zero cost. I will definitely be using a microfiber towels under all strapping points. I really like the cross strapping to the frame under the seat. Thanks for that and the pics.
So the last part is whether to make a wheel chock like the one in my low quality attracted picture, but wide enough to accommodate the 300 tire. Maybe that isn’t needed if I have the lift under the bike and everything is strapped down securely. Just to note, the lift would only be raised enough to stand the bike straight up and bear about 1/4 of the weight of the bike. Just enough to keep from compressing the suspension when strapped and also transferring some weight.

tire chock - yes or no

also, I would love to post a pic, but until I take possession the bike belongs to the current owner. Once I have it, you can bet I will be posting some pics. I will try to get some good pics of the whole loading and securing process to post as well. Hopefully they can help others on a method of doing (or not doing) it.

 

[Sven]

Now that I think of it, why run a chock when the flat lift is going to stabilize the bike from flipping the front end from diving to one side. Plus, you roll it backwards, how do you chock it but lift the bike up to slide the wood chock under the front wheel. Pass on the chock. Ties and the flat jack is all you need. Flat jack is screw type not hydraulic so it should not drop and loosen the ties, load the tailgate, etc.

 

[The idea guy]

Yes, it is a Harley Davidson brand (probably made in China) screw drive lift.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I really appreciate all of your input and advice. I had considered renting at U-Haul. Unfortunately their bike trailer is only 7 feet. The K9 is 9 feet so that rules that out. I am completely opposed to using ramps, there are way to many pics and videos of bikes being dumped of ramps. Standard height for truck loading docks is 48 inches. My truck bed is 38 inches. I have 9 inch ramps that I can back my truck up onto. That would leave a 1inch drop from the dock into my truck bed. I’m good with that. I want to back the bike onto the truck putting the rear tire towards the cab and the front tire on the tailgate. I like the suggestion to put a jack under the bike to transfer weight off of the tailgate. I have one for my Harley so that’s a zero cost. I will definitely be using a microfiber towels under all strapping points. I really like the cross strapping to the frame under the seat. Thanks for that and the pics.
So the last part is whether to make a wheel chock like the one in my low quality attracted picture, but wide enough to accommodate the 300 tire. Maybe that isn’t needed if I have the lift under the bike and everything is strapped down securely. Just to note, the lift would only be raised enough to stand the bike straight up and bear about 1/4 of the weight of the bike. Just enough to keep from compressing the suspension when strapped and also transferring some weight.

tire chock - yes or no

also, I would love to post a pic, but until I take possession the bike belongs to the current owner. Once I have it, you can bet I will be posting some pics. I will try to get some good pics of the whole loading and securing process to post as well. Hopefully they can help others on a method of doing (or not doing) it.

This is the proper Uhaul for a K-9

U-Haul Equipment specifications: 5' x 9' Utility Trailer With Ramp

EZ load ramp. Great for hauling motorcycles and golf carts.

www.uhaul.com

I know -- I have trailered mine in one due to a blown transmission one year., its 9'2" plus a little extra for the front wheel.

 

[Mickmorris]

I really appreciate all of your input and advice. I had considered renting at U-Haul. Unfortunately their bike trailer is only 7 feet. The K9 is 9 feet so that rules that out. I am completely opposed to using ramps, there are way to many pics and videos of bikes being dumped of ramps. Standard height for truck loading docks is 48 inches. My truck bed is 38 inches. I have 9 inch ramps that I can back my truck up onto. That would leave a 1inch drop from the dock into my truck bed. I’m good with that. I want to back the bike onto the truck putting the rear tire towards the cab and the front tire on the tailgate. I like the suggestion to put a jack under the bike to transfer weight off of the tailgate. I have one for my Harley so that’s a zero cost. I will definitely be using a microfiber towels under all strapping points. I really like the cross strapping to the frame under the seat. Thanks for that and the pics.
So the last part is whether to make a wheel chock like the one in my low quality attracted picture, but wide enough to accommodate the 300 tire. Maybe that isn’t needed if I have the lift under the bike and everything is strapped down securely. Just to note, the lift would only be raised enough to stand the bike straight up and bear about 1/4 of the weight of the bike. Just enough to keep from compressing the suspension when strapped and also transferring some weight.

tire chock - yes or no

also, I would love to post a pic, but until I take possession the bike belongs to the current owner. Once I have it, you can bet I will be posting some pics. I will try to get some good pics of the whole loading and securing process to post as well. Hopefully they can help others on a method of doing (or not doing) it.

That’s not correct the U-haul Motorcycle trailer will hold any BigDog motorcycle. I have hauled my chopper & ridgeback in them. They actually fit perfectly. But you will still need to load & unload on a incline so that the frame doesn’t hit the trailer. I believe the Ridgeback is just a bit longer than the K-9. This shows a good tie down method for the U-haul trailer also.

 

[Mickmorris]

This is the proper Uhaul for a K-9

U-Haul Equipment specifications: 5' x 9' Utility Trailer With Ramp

EZ load ramp. Great for hauling motorcycles and golf carts.

www.uhaul.com

I know -- I have trailered mine in one due to a blown transmission one year., its 9'2" plus a little extra for the front wheel.

 

[Mickmorris]

Welcome from Florida btw! Enjoy your new ride! Hope to see ya on the road someday! Cheers!

 

[Big dog papa]

Welcome from Northwest Florida.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

Ps.... what ever you load it in, remember to remove the seat or you will be on the swap meet hunting one..