engine hangs when first trying to start

Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
What should the voltage initially drop to while starting the bike?
I dont have a charging issue (too high, too low), but Ill do as you said. I know this as Ive seen my voltage meter.
Note there is nothing between battery and voltmeter. My wiring is the bare minimum.
20211129_195149.jpgThank you.
 
Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Disconnected the VR, one plug in. Still struggling to turn over. Switched plugs, same result. No plugs, spins like it should. Starter swap & green wire is next.
 
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Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Did not watch voltmeter.
Reconnected VR, disconnected green wire. No response at all when the wire is disconnected. Had a friend turn the key while I pressed both CR's down. Rotated once then hung up.
Any other ides?
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Coolbreezin said:
Did not watch voltmeter.
Reconnected VR, disconnected green wire. No response at all when the wire is disconnected. Had a friend turn the key while I pressed both CR's down. Rotated once then hung up.
Any other ides?
Click to expand...
No response from starter is correct when green wire is disconnected so that's good.

What I would do at this point is the following.

Disconnect all wires from battery except ground and power to battery.
Pull plugs
use a jumper wire and touch (briefly) the spade lug where the green wire connect to 12v
That should activate starter.
Watch VOLTmeter during this
Repeat with one plug, then two.
remember no more than 3 seconds on green wire.

Next test.
Disconnect battery from EVERYTHING
Ohm the plus wire to the starter to ground. (I'll check mine when I get a chance and that will get a reference point for you.) It will should as a near short and your meter might not be sensitive enough to read this. Since it is in the sub 0.1 ohm range based on a rough calculation.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Coolbreezin said:
Did not watch voltmeter.
Reconnected VR, disconnected green wire. No response at all when the wire is disconnected. Had a friend turn the key while I pressed both CR's down. Rotated once then hung up.
Any other ides?
Click to expand...
I thought you mentioned you just had a slam button to start it right there on your starter solenoid?






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heybaylor

heybaylor

Active Member
late to the party, sounds like the starter has been fried.

I/E stalled, voltage left on, motorwire melted together.

motor wire in starter has a coating to prevent it from shorting to itself.
the motor winding produce a magnetic field that pulls the armature to the permanent magnets in the housing.
EACH winding has a field. when melted/shorted together, two become one field, three or more shorted together become one field. and so on.
so if you had lots of magnetic fields, now have a lot less you have lost starter power
after being shorted/burnt together you slowly lose the magnetic power of the starter, wont turn motor load. but will still spin under light to no load.

this is usually caused by trying to crank under low voltage ( weak battery) and holding the starter engaged too long after it stalls, and current is high enough to melt the motorwire
then when new battery is installed the starter is now damaged, and will not perform
pull the starter and have it tested
hope this helps
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
"Magnetism: You cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction."

When I use that as a theory tool, I look for ground lost? Backwash? Heat meets what it can't dissipate thru a loop? Loop meaning ground?

CBre says: "Sven, thank you for the input. I have seen those before. But Ive ridden this bike for over 80,000 miles without the need of a second ground cable. So why now? "

Because I want to see page 45 LOL you being stuck 80k's ago. WATT chore checking is a loop. Humor me so this is E and it's the first thing out of the way is compression. We know you have that because the batt can't push. Push comes to shove, step away from the bike, go to the bank, buy me a round trip ticket, I buy the sushi meals, hand me the jumper cables...

Signed,
I want to be wrong says a good ground already... pg. 46 LOL
 
Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Haybalor, I bought a new starter from Shovelheadkicker. Didnt make a difference.
Seems like the only time it hangs up is when the plugs are in. So I can only assume that there is some kinda issue with the CR's. So Im looking to go manual.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Coolbreezin said:
Haybalor, I bought a new starter from Shovelheadkicker. Didnt make a difference.
Seems like the only time it hangs up is when the plugs are in. So I can only assume that there is some kinda issue with the CR's. So Im looking to go manual.
Click to expand...
Good new battery should start with none or one compression releases working. You can hold one down with your finger and bike should start.

I think your new everstart might be the problem, back to the battery. Hook up a set of jumper cables to a car battery. If it's in the car leave the car off. That will provide plenty cranking amps and will take all of 5 minutes to check.

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heybaylor

heybaylor

Active Member
voltmeter on the "starter power lead AT the starter and starter CASE" will tell you what power you have at the starter during cranking.
this will tell you if your solenoid, leads, and ground are good or bad.
it should be the same ,or close to reading the battery during cranking. (around 10 volts minimum)
my 107 starts with no cr's.
the fix will be simple ONCE you find it
(trouble shooting is a process of elimination)
hope this helps
 
Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Hear ye hear ye! Found and fixed the problem...gremlin bell was gone. Put one on and she fired right up. :D:whoop:
No, actually all I did was r&r the battery to the 420cca lithium. It hesitated like normal but powered past it. Didnt see any smoke from the connections. Still gonna switch to the manual CR's though. Thank you all for your time and knowledge. Im sorry we didnt figure out the problem. Once I do find it, Ill come back here to give closure to this thread.
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Coolbreezin said:
Hear ye hear ye! Found and fixed the problem...gremlin bell was gone. Put one on and she fired right up. :D:whoop:
No, actually all I did was r&r the battery to the 420cca lithium. It hesitated like normal but powered past it. Didnt see any smoke from the connections. Still gonna switch to the manual CR's though. Thank you all for your time and knowledge. Im sorry we didnt figure out the problem. Once I do find it, Ill come back here to give closure to this thread.
Click to expand...
Well, if you replace the auto CR's with manual using the same location I think you're looking at burnt fingers very easily. I don't want to stick my fingers into the rocker box covers when the engine is hot and I need to restart! but your choice. I've had no problem with my auto crs.

What Lithium battery are you using? Is it lithium Iron by chance? If it is try this to maybe avoid initial hesitation. Turn bike on and counf to 5 or 10 then press start. I had a Li iron years ago that warned of the battery wanting to warm up below a certain temp before it performed up to specs and that's what I did. Made it a habit when I used it so I didn't have to go is it below or above X - was it below X last night? Just a silly stupid test you can do just in case.
 
Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
I bumped into an acquaintance today from our riding group. After some questions and a little benchracing, he told me that he would check the compensator. Now I dont beat on my chopper but yall know I do love a good smokeshow. He says that eventhough I didnt dump the clutch to break the tire loose, the stress from pressuring the compensator until the tire broke free caused some wear. So now with the compression and the compensator thats enough to make the motor hang like it does. Yalls thoughts?
 
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