Bet you haven't checked voltage at the battery static but even more importantly, while you have the DVM still connected to the battery terminals, try to start while watching the DVM. If the problem is the battery, you'll see a voltage reading below 7 or 8 volts when you depress the start button and an audible click. if the problem is NOT battery related, you'll get no change in voltage when pushing start. working the problem backwards is a time proven method that will help you eliminate the easy and more common problems related to your current situation. Key on should initiate lights that inform you of your bikes status with regards to initiating its operation. I'm assuming you've owned and operated this bike for a while so if you've been observant as you use it, you'd immediately notice a difference in your bikes systems self-test. I, like you have read many, many similar posts regarding the infamous CLICK but always am amazed that some owners tend to ignore the normal operating aspects when it's functioning properly. through years of ownership my confidence level with regards to my bikes throwing me a curve ball now and again has steadily increased. These bikes are actually uncomplicated and pretty basic, and anyone with an average background in mechanics can work the problem through, its called a flow chart.
Just so you know, a battery can have an internal cell that's below voltage so when you test it, it shows 12 volts but even a jump won't get you anywhere as the weak battery can't transfer the increased voltage in the circuit. Sometimes you must remove the battery from the circuit and attempt to start with a known good source. Good luck.