AWG wiring harness

Savage 1

Member
20 and 22 AWG seems mighty thin for a wiring harness.

Does the new RIP and WP kits come with a thicker guage wire?

Many of the bikes I've repaired contained at least 16 AWG.

I'd like to hear some feedback from the experts on this subject.

I have to admit, I have not figured out the current draw for every circuit or component. The wiring simply seemed a bit thin while I was making seemingly endless electrical repairs on my 2004 Bulldog.

Thanks in advance for sharing....
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Well multi-strand 22AWG wire is good for at least 4A and can go all the way to 11A
Not a lot of circuits on BD draw that much power.
And since we have an EHC a number of the runs are shorter therefore less resistance total.

For example conventional wiring, a positive wire would leave battery run to handlebar switch for turn signal, when closed the positove would then be run back to the flasher unit near the battery typically and then from the flasher to each signal lamp (front and rear)

BDM wire goes to handle bar switch from EHC, when one it gets connected to ground.
The EHC then powers up another pin that is wired to the LED bulbs that make up the turn signal (led usually use leass power than old incadesents) SO we have eliminated the excess heat/power drawn by flasher relay and cut the power run to the bulb essentially in 1/2 by not sending power thru the handlebars.
 
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Savage 1

Member
So, it appears that 22 AWG wire can carry .92 amp of current when installed in a bundle.

Military grade wire was used originally and can carry approximately 6.2 amp in an open single wire.

I suspect a few problems with this set-up.
The wiring is bundled, then forced down through the backbone.

This presents several potential problems.

Strands breaking, chaffing, etc due to thin wire. In addition, the breaking, bundling, and chaffing reduces the ability to carry current.

I'm wondering if new components are truly the solution. It surely would not make sense to replace an ehc that I determined to be faulty or low quality with yet another ehc from the same manufacturer.

I'll post the current draw in each of these circuits in the near future in an attempt to shed light on these unanswered questions.

Does anyone have the specs for what each circuit should draw or carry?

Thanks
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
So, it appears that 22 AWG wire can carry .92 amp of current when installed in a bundle.

Military grade wire was used originally and can carry approximately 6.2 amp in an open single wire.

I suspect a few problems with this set-up.
The wiring is bundled, then forced down through the backbone.

This presents several potential problems.

Strands breaking, chaffing, etc due to thin wire. In addition, the breaking, bundling, and chaffing reduces the ability to carry current.

I'm wondering if new components are truly the solution. It surely would not make sense to replace an ehc that I determined to be faulty or low quality with yet another ehc from the same manufacturer.

I'll post the current draw in each of these circuits in the near future in an attempt to shed light on these unanswered questions.

Does anyone have the specs for what each circuit should draw or carry?

Thanks
check out https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator
 

Savage 1

Member
Does the EHC detect changes in current as a means of self preservation?

Will the EHC shut circuits down if it detects power surges, low current in the circuit etc...?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the EHC internal wiring?

Thanks
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Does the EHC detect changes in current as a means of self preservation?

Will the EHC shut circuits down if it detects power surges, low current in the circuit etc...?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the EHC internal wiring?

Thanks
The only circuit I know that changes if not enough current drawn is the head light. Used to be a problem for LED/HID lamps. Would switch to High Beam since it didn't detect adequate power draw on low beam.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Does the EHC detect changes in current as a means of self preservation?

Will the EHC shut circuits down if it detects power surges, low current in the circuit etc...?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the EHC internal wiring?

Thanks
You can check this post lots of info. On the newer style EHC.

EHC replacement
 

Savage 1

Member
Thanks fella's, I found lots of diagrams here on the site.
I have enough info to get her squared away!
The EHC is in good shape, the wiring is the issue. Easy fix, but time consuming!

Thanks for all the responses
 

Savage 1

Member
Thanks Mike, I just found that this morning.

Really great info!

The bike is an 04, but, I can figure it out using some of the later model diagrams!

No problem! ;-)
 

Savage 1

Member
Ok men, so far I've found a cracked cam sensor in the nose cone!

The pigtail for trickle charger melted from heat and shorted to ground!

Chicken lights were installed by "Carnie" at a bike rally by previous owner. Poor craftsmanship, lots of issues with those. They currently are residing in trash!

The Dog finally has no more swamping issues, no more tranny seal leaks, no more electrical issues, she is purring like a kitten.

There is a beast underneath all that abuse she has taken!
 

Savage 1

Member
I just finished cleaning EHC and applying dielectric grease.

Repaired connections at PCB on both sides!

Carb rebuild today...running rich, can't adjust it out....problem in accelerator pump!
 

Savage 1

Member
Ok, so, I fixed the last electrical gremlin! The Dog was cutting out for no apparent reason like many others.

Then it would start back up after cycling switches.

I tested all the circuits, current draw was all over the place.

I changed wire size to 16 and 18 AWG.

Appears broken strands within the wires were the culprit of the resistance.

Basically, the EHC was receiving inadequate signal...junk in, junk out!

Problem solved!
 
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